Hello from West Houston

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BillyP

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Oct 6, 2016
17
Houston, TX
Hello Everyone,
1st time pool owner. Built a 15k gallon pool with pebbletec lining completed last October. Since about April I've been fighting an endless war against pool chemistry gremlins using inadequate testing methods. I was officially at my wit's end until google help me find this site. (And with college degrees in both chemistry and chemical engineering, fighting pool chemistry has been a source of personal embarrassment ?).

Yesterday I got my testing kit and am now fully armed with data and tools. Look out!

I did get the 2005C kit from Amazon, and it appears I have enough reagents to last well into the next century.

Here are the numbers:
FC: 3
TC: 5
pH: cover your eyes bad, below 7, needed 15 drops to get to 7.4
TA: 50
CH: 280
CYA: 110

Used pool math to add the proper amount of bleach, borax, and baking soda. Plan to retest tonight.
I also have brown staining in the deep end which is probably from some poorly placed potted plants, but want to get balanced before tackling that. I know I need to drain and refill to lower the CYA but will probably have to wait until the weekend after next so I can be present for it.
Happy to have found this place!
 
Hi Billy and welcome to TFP! :wave: The K-2005 is fine for now, but you will want to order the FAS-DPD Testing Portion so that you can accurately test FC and CC at all levels. It's a critical part of FC testing. Also, if you don't already have a "Speed Stir", you may want to consider that as well.

Other than keeping the FC pumped-up to compensate for the high CYA, I wouldn't waste too much chemicals if you plan on draining some this weekend to lower the CYA. The sooner you can do that the sooner you can balance the FC accordingly and not feel like you're flushing water down the drain ... or lawn. :)

Nice to have you with us!
 
Dumb question, but do you guys use a submersible pump to drain? I've looked all over my equipment and can't for the life of me figure out how I might tap in with a hose to drain. I have an easytouch panel that goes into drain mode but I thought that was just to drain the spa
 
Billy,

Show us a picture of your equipment pad showing your filter and all the valves and we might be able to suggest ways to drain your pool.

With "college degrees in both chemistry and chemical engineering", you might want to review this.. Chlorine CYA Chart

Notice that your current FC level is way below the minimum for your CYA.. and, if your TC (FC+CC) is truly 5 that means your CC is 2 which is an indication of something growing in your pool.

Back to school for you.. Pool School that is.. :D Pool School

Jim R.
 
Thanks Jim.
I have been fighting that yellow mustard mold ALL spring/summer. After reading the site the lightbulb came on regarding FC/CYA and the testing last night confirmed the expectation. I'm fighting a CYA war I can't win.
It was a little embarrassing to have the neighbor come over, who also has a pool, and look at my disaster and say "don't you have a degree in this stuff?"
 
Is the powder test more accurate than the liquid one that comes with the 2005 test? I'd say it was not that easy to differentiate between the shades of purple on the liquid one so if the powder is easier I'll definitely order that today.
 
BillyP said:
Thanks Jim.
I have been fighting that yellow mustard mold ALL spring/summer. After reading the site the lightbulb came on regarding FC/CYA and the testing last night confirmed the expectation. I'm fighting a CYA war I can't win.
It was a little embarrassing to have the neighbor come over, who also has a pool, and look at my disaster and say "don't you have a degree in this stuff?"
Click to expand...

Billy,

Thanks for the chuckle..

As Pat says, you will need the FAS-DPD test set up. You might also look into the SpeedStir. I did not originally think I needed it, but now that I have it, I could not live without it. Makes testing more accurate and so much faster. Kind of like having a third arm...

Jim R.
 
http://pho.to/AN2jd

Here is a pic of my equipment. I'm thinking that hose bib on the pump discharge is how to drain it. Just block in the skimmers and the inlet to the UV treater and the run a hose to an appropriate drain location?
 
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Billy,

I believe that the hose bib is more for draining if you don't have an overflow. So, if your pool is a little too full after a rain storm you can use the bib.

If you plan to drain below the skimmers, then I'd recommend a small sump pump, or you can just use a hose as a siphon, like you used to do when stealing gas from your neighbors car... :cool:

Here is the link that I had to use to see your pic... Photo shared via Share.Pho.to


Jim R.
 
This is Houston, sadly not enough elevation change in the yard to siphon. Do you think there would be any harm in trying to use the hose bib if I closed off the skimmers and eased the pump discharge pressure into an attached hose and ran the pump at a slower speed?
 
Billy,

As long as the pump is not having a problem, I see no harm in trying.. Just open the main drain valve and close the skimmer valves. You just need to monitor your pump while this is going on. As you drain the water down, it will be harder for the pump to pull the water from the main drain. You can't hurt anything unless you let the pump run out of water. I'd run the pump at 1,200 to 1,500 RPM and see how it looks.

Jim R.
 
Thanks Jim
Just got started about an hour ago. Let the pump run super slow until I could see there were no issues. Started ramping up the RPMs watching the discharge pressure gage on the filter vessel. Stopped at about 20psi, where it should be with clean filters. Using back yard patio drains to take water to the street to minimize the hose run. Here goes nuthin!
 
Thanks Jim and Texas Splash! My CYA is now down to 60. I have the powder fas dpd kit and am logging all of the numbers much more accurately. I have more questions about how some of the numbers are moving but I'll start a new discussion in the appropriate forum area. Thanks!
 
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