Advice Please: Pool Store $$$ vs REAL people... lol

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PamD

PamD

0
Oct 3, 2016
23
Wisconsin Rapids, WI
Total pool noob here. We've had intex blow ups and quick sets years ago...

Just had installed an above ground 18'er and of course will not be swimming before next year. Bought from a friend, 5 years old, installed new liner also. Went to pool store as valve needed a new spring and gasket.
Took water sample. #'s were: CYA 0, TC .1, FC .1, TA 43, TH 99, Iron .1, Salt 100, ph 6.8, TDS 150, Sat -1.9, temp 45.

Pool store said we needed 13# of Balance Pak 100, (I have more than enough baking soda for that), 7.75# of Balance Pak 300, (is this washing soda?), .75# of Super Soluble and an Arctic Blue Winter Kit 12k. There cost is $104. IF I need those things, I can get them online for like $70 ish.

Do we need to run the SWG? thinking not. Is the shock thing ok with an SWG? I know it's still CL, but didn't know if there would be a difference.

We also figured that since the pool set up is 5yo, we will change the sand come Spring. What would be the best to use? I had heard of Zeo-lite, Pool Store mentioned recycled glass.

Thanks so much, and I'm a maximizer, so may be asking a gazillion questions... :)
 
I will answer your last question/comment first. It is very rare to ever need to replace the sand in a filter. The only times I've read about an actual change, is when it was all gunked up beyond the ability of a deep clean. So I wouldn't worry about that until you get a chance to actually look in there.

Here is the deep cleaning link. Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

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Oh BTW. Welcome to TFPC. We are glad you found us. :wave:

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There will be others along soon to provide you with lots of stuff to read and learn about. Just remember, this is not hard and you can do it.
 
I just have a moment, but wanted to say we generally don't regard pool store testing as very accurate, and many of us feel it is a waste of time to provide advice based on pool store testing. This is not to say they are all bad, and a broken clock is also right twice per day.... So our number one bit of advice is buy one of the suggested test kits, either the Taylor K-2006C (not the smaller K2006A) or the TF-Testkits TF-100 and get your own reliable test numbers. Personally I use and endorse the TF-100, it is a better value, and they help support this site, so win-win, the link is in my signature. Now I have to go fix the lawn mower and mow the grass before it gets dark...

Ike
 
and a broken clock is also right twice per day....
Click to expand...
Ike, I have got to remember that one. :)

Pam, my suggestion .... ditch everything the pool store told you and do not spend all that money on those over-priced items. Winter comes along and they package-up products to make it seem like you MUST have that for winter treatment, and it's simply not true. What you DO need is the right test kit - that's priority #1 as Ike noted above. I have the TF-100 and can attest to its value. I also recommend the magnetic "Speed Stir". You won't regret it. Everything you do from here-on is based on that testing - NOT the pool stores. Oh, and since you have a SWG, you should also order your own salt tester (drops or strips, although many seem to like the drops better from TFtestkits.com).

Until you get the kit (which will last through next season), simply stick to the items listed below on my sig (Recommended Chemicals & Levels). Those links will help you tremendously. Also practice using the Poolmath Calculator. You can't break it. :) Let your eyes get used to the rows, colors, etc, so you're not overwhelmed.

As Bob stated, your sand should still be good and last many, many years unless someone before you added pool store floc or clarifiers that may have gunked it up. A good deep clean may be in order. With the right test kit, we're all about efficiency and saving $$$. You CAN do it. It's not as complicated as some pool stores may lead it out to be.

As you approach closing, we'll be glad to help you with that as well. Just let us know.
 
Absolutely positively DO NOT PUT the Arctic Blue junk in your pool. It has a copper based algaecide as one of the components. We NEVER recommend the use of metal based algaecides as they create the potential to stain your beautiful new liner!!

Everything else is nothing more than dichlor powder, baking soda and soda ash. You can buy all of that (if you really want to) for a lot cheaper than what the pool store will sell it to you for under the BioGuard brand name.

Oh, and Welcome :wave:
 
One question you asked hasn't been touched on - the SWG you mentioned. No need to do anything with that until the water is a lot warmer, next year. These devices won't work below 60, if I recall correctly; certainly won't work at 45 degrees. You could look up the manual for your SWG online, perhaps, to learn more about it.
 
Wow, thanks. Been doing lots of reading... ordered test kit, spinner, salt test and a couple of things I didn't have.

In reading my owners manual for the sand filter, it mentioned to only use silica sand. the previous owners had "sand" sand in. I know you all had mentioned to not change the sand, but should we change it to the silica in the Spring, since it is the medium recommended?
 

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Can you explain what you mean by "sand" sand? Where did the previous owner get the sand from?
 
Sand Filter flow into pool-help...

We just had a pool guy install a 5yo Cristal flo 2 sand filter. Have the water in the pool between the 2nd and 3rd screws on the skimmer. (though I just read it should be higher as we have a whirlpool going on in the skimmer).
Followed the Initial start up direction in the manual. Though we did not run bw or rinse for 2 mins as the water coming out was clear- Backwashes, rinses, recirculates fine. Flow into pool on recirculate is great. NO flow on filter setting. Pump has water. I cleaned all the baskets/skimmers. Had the 6 valve thing serviced, so it isn't a gasket issue. All the back washes and rinses were clean.
As we just put the pool up last week, we will just be recirculating chemicals for this year anyway, but would like to run the filter if possible. any thoughts? Oh, and the pressure gauge needs replacing, that's on order, so I can't check any numbers on that right now. ugh. Thanks
 
You are getting great advice!!

I just thought I'd jump in here and comment on how it seems pool stores love people with a lack of knowledge. Instead of teaching them the "why", they just tell you to buy this and that and throw it in the pool.

You questions show both a willingness to learn and that you are beginning to think like a self sufficient pool owner rather than a pool store robot willing to fork out cash for overpriced and sometimes unneeded stuff.
 
If you want to change the sand to something that you are sure about, it certainly won't hurt anything.
 
Re: Sand Filter flow into pool-help...

Pam, there's a few things about this post that are related to your other thread, so don't be surprised if we merge them at some point okay. :) Sometimes it helps to keep everything together. As I read your situation with the filter, if you have good water flow to the pump & filter (sounds like you do) I keep coming back to the multiport valve or something internally in the filter. I mean if you can backwash fine, and you can run water to the pool on recirculate fine, it seems like there is a blockage in there somehow when placed on filter mode. When you say the multiport valve was serviced, do you know what exactly was performed? Perhaps something is compromised on the underside of the multiport valve and was not discovered during the spring/gasket repair? I wonder if the valve itself may have been reassembled incorrectly which would make the ports line-up incorrectly inside? Also keep in mind that when placed on recirculate, water is basically bypassing the internal part of the multiport valve altogether (making a U-turn), and just going straight back to the pool. So I keep coming to either the multiport valve or a problem internally.

Since you had the valve serviced by someone recently, for a moment let's assume it's good. Then something in that 5-yr old filter is plugged somewhere. If that is the same sand that you were questioning in your other thread, and came with the filter, I wonder if it’s simply compacted or channeled inside which might indicate why the backwashing showed clear water instead of dirty because the sand is channeled or pressed together and you’re not really able to give it a good backwash. I don't recall, but have you opened-up that filter yet and done a good deep cleaning? If not, I would definitely do that. It’s free and only takes some time. Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter If you have any doubt about the sand that was originally used by the previous owners, then you can always clean it out and get new sand (#20 silica sand, sometimes called pool filter sand. I believe it may be marked as .45-.55 mm). You might also wish to look at:
Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
How a Multiport Valve Operates - INYOPools.com
View attachment 54864
 

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