Ok i understand the blowing out of the lines and everything associated with doing that part. Its more so the chemical part i wanna make sure of. So is the tfp method just bringing the fc up to shock level, let it fall a little bit, then the ONLY chemical needed is Polyquat 60? Do not buy a closing kit? None of them floater pill thingys with the blue liquid in them? I used to close my pool by myself with a kit and the aqua pills before it was renovated. Now thats its been renovated anthony and sylvan closed it last year which was the first closing while new. So this will be the 2nd closing on the plaster. Is it ok to the drain below the returns now? Id rather since i have a mesh cover and by opening time its up to level from the winter snow and rain. If i only drain below the skimmer then during winter i have to pump water out about 2-3 times. Dont wanna compromise plaster so if its not okay to drain below returns then no worries.
Lets see if i got this closing thing correct?
- Thread starter Mical718
- Start date
You can certainly drain below the returns.
A winter closing kit is not necessary.
Polyquat-60 is nice insurance, but is also not mandatory. If you decide to use polyquat-60, ordering online is your best bet. Leslie's may not have it and just shove a winter kit down your throat.
The most important factor in determining if you will open to a clear pool in the spring is that the water is 60 degrees or less when you close. Algae does not grow very fast, if at all, below 60 degrees. If you cover your pool, bring your FC up to shock level for your CYA, cover the pool and assure it's 60 degrees or less, you will open to a clean pool. Close late, open early. Only running the pump at night, with the solar cover off before closing can help bring the pool temp down sooner. Covering with your winter cover can also help it cool faster by preventing warming from the sun. Safety covers are especially good at this. You may have to remove the winter cover partially to complete your closing if you use it to help cool the pool sooner.
A winter closing kit is not necessary.
Polyquat-60 is nice insurance, but is also not mandatory. If you decide to use polyquat-60, ordering online is your best bet. Leslie's may not have it and just shove a winter kit down your throat.
The most important factor in determining if you will open to a clear pool in the spring is that the water is 60 degrees or less when you close. Algae does not grow very fast, if at all, below 60 degrees. If you cover your pool, bring your FC up to shock level for your CYA, cover the pool and assure it's 60 degrees or less, you will open to a clean pool. Close late, open early. Only running the pump at night, with the solar cover off before closing can help bring the pool temp down sooner. Covering with your winter cover can also help it cool faster by preventing warming from the sun. Safety covers are especially good at this. You may have to remove the winter cover partially to complete your closing if you use it to help cool the pool sooner.
Ok looks like amazon has the polyquat 60 so i will order it up. Is this one any good ya think? And how many qts would you think i need for my size pool? 22k gallons 
poly-60 is typically dosed at 8 ounces per 10,000 gallons at closing (use pool start up recommendation on label). Your pool should be fine using 16 ounces. That way you have enough to do it again next year. 17.6 ounces if you want to make sure you hit the start up dose exactly...
I actually use 1Q per 10,000 gallons. I may be over-doing it.... but I always open clear and balanced. Just my take.
Ok here is the vac i used and my main drain. I was not getting any bubbles to cole out of the main drain. So i then sucked water to make sure i was able to get some water to come up and there wasnt an issue with the jandy and i got water. Then turned it back to blower and onky for 5 seconds i got some tiny bubbles. Is it because i have two mains tied to one pipe i wasnt seeing any major bubbles? 
Shop vacs are not always capable of blowing out MDs. If you have a small compressor, try that instead. Hook into pump basket drain hole and set to 15 psi max.
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I had the multivalve in recirc position. When i first hooked up the air compressor i still didnt get anything. Then i said to myself let me try this is the closed position and sure enough then i got the air out the main drain. So is that the correct way for multivalve? Also how should i leave the multi valve now for the winter?
If you have the MPV in the closed position, then all the pressure goes to the suction side, leaving less plumbing volume to pressurize. Good idea.
Move the MPV to the Winter position or leave it between any two positions.
sent from mobile device. beware of brevity and spelling errors!
Move the MPV to the Winter position or leave it between any two positions.
sent from mobile device. beware of brevity and spelling errors!
Also i put my empty algae 60 bottle in the skimmer. I filled it halfway with water. Is that correct or does it have to be empty? Last year when ant syl closed it they left a full bottle of jacks magic something in there lol.
That should be fine. You want some liquid inside the bottle so that it is suspended in the skimmer not resting on top of any liquid in there.
Bottles break & leak etc... Pack it with pool noodle- your bulletproof
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Hi JVTrain,
Regarding your statement "Only running the pump at night, with the solar cover off before closing can help bring the pool temp down sooner." That was the first time I saw this and will begin to follow that advise. Are you able to provide any background behind this as per why that helps bring down the water temp as opposed to running the pump during the day.
Thanks!
Mike
Regarding your statement "Only running the pump at night, with the solar cover off before closing can help bring the pool temp down sooner." That was the first time I saw this and will begin to follow that advise. Are you able to provide any background behind this as per why that helps bring down the water temp as opposed to running the pump during the day.
Thanks!
Mike
Air temps are cooler at night. Circulating the water exposes more of your water to those cooler temps, helping the pool cool a little faster. Solar covers are best at keeping heat in the pool, rather than actually helping to significantly warm the pool. This is because they prevent evaporation and insulate the water from cold air. Evaporation cools your pool and is especially true on cool, low humidity nights of the late summer and early fall.