Pool Closing - First time

g3lo

Well-known member
May 29, 2015
268
Toronto
Pool Size
23000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi,

I have read the sticky of the pool closing procedure and have a few questions.

My main concern is closing it properly so nothing is broken during open season.

I am in Toronto, Canada if that helps.

1) I understand the concept of draining the water below the jets and than blowing out the lines via shop vac. Where do I place the shop vac to blow the lines out? Would that be in the skimmer area where there are 2 holes?

2) I heard mixed reviews between adding anti freeze or not. Is this necessary?

3) I heard mixed reviews between blowing out the main drain, or not. What do I need to do with this? If so, where do I put the shop vac air to make that happen? It was mentioned to blow out the main drain until you see bubbles and than plug the valve. How do I find what plugs the main drain?

4) Do I need to disassemble the filter and drain it? I don't think a single company I had hired to close my pool before has ever done this.

Thank you kindly,
g3lo
 
Can you please take pictures from all angles (top & sides) of your equipment pad and if possible label everything. Most items are easy to figure out with a picture. Also, how many skimmers, returns and main drains do you have?

I will help you out once I know what you are working with. Thanks!
 
Can you please take pictures from all angles (top & sides) of your equipment pad and if possible label everything. Most items are easy to figure out with a picture. Also, how many skimmers, returns and main drains do you have?

I will help you out once I know what you are working with. Thanks!

Thank you! I was hoping someone would be helpful and get involved with the details specific to my set-up!

I will include pictures shortly. Many thanks.
 
Thank you! I was hoping someone would be helpful and get involved with the details specific to my set-up!

It is difficult sometimes without pictures. The equipment pad, valves, filter, etc. tell so much. The biggest obstacle people face is where to blow air through and this is the reason why I ask. Shut off valves play an important role closing the pool, especially if there is not enough volume in the compressor or shop vac., especially when it comes down to the main drain.

You will receive the specific help you are looking for. In order to answer your specific questions, please post the pictures. Thanks!

You can push air through the skimmers (which will loose air and probably not work with a shop vac). The best place to push air through is the pump basket, either through the npt fitting or the pump basket itself. Yesterday, the 3' 1.5" flexible hose fit perfectly at a friends house to test something out. I could not use my modified cover as he did not have the shut off valves in certain areas and his pool was closed.

Here is a link to what I did, which is huge in closing a pool. The time involved is limited. After the water was drained below the skimmer, it took me 2 minutes to close both skimmers, 1 minute for the main drain and 8 minutes to close the 8 return jets in the pool. A total of 11 minutes. Removed the pressure gauge, sight glass and drain plug from filter in 30 seconds. The cover took about 15 minutes. The pool was closed in less than 30 minutes. After time, pool owners find ways to speed up the closing process. It all comes down to technique. Thanks!

Modified Cover for Swimming Pools

Modified Cover for Hayward Super Pump for Closing Swimming Pool

CLOSING A SWIMMING POOL:

First time closing pool!!
Post # 7 for the standard air fittings. Good Thread.

Winterizing your Sand Filter (same as other sand filters with multi-port)

Interesting to note: Hayward Manual for the S244T 24" 300# sand filter, states only this in their instructions for winterizing:

WINTERIZING

1. Completely drain tank by unscrewing drain cap at base of filter tank. Leave cap off during winter.

2. Depress Vari-Flo control valve handle and rotate so as to set pointer on valve top between any two positions. This will allow water to drain from the valve. Leave valve in this "inactive" position.

winterizing with a sand filter
 
I close in a slightly different order than Cantazaro, but the idea is the same. I use both a shop vac and a compressor because I'm too cheap to buy a $300 cyclone blower...

Typically here's how I do my pool:

End of the day before I'm going to close, I raise the FC to shock level for my CYA (usually 12 - 16 ppm).

Next morning I drain enough water to go below the skimmers and jets. Doesn't take long using the pool pump to pull only from the main drain to backflush/waste.

I then turn the MPV on my sand filter to recirculate. I move my three way valves on the suction side to isolate flow only to the one skimmer, not the main drain. I remove all my return eyeballs. I hook my shop vacuum up to the drain hole of one of my skimmers and start to blow out the lines. Using expandable plugs, I'll plug all but one of the returns once they are all no longer blowing out water. I have to do this because I have no valves on my return side. I cycle the shop vacuum on and off with the one return isolated, trying to get as much water as possible out of the line. I repeat with all the other returns, isolating each one. Then on the last return, I'll move the shop vac to the other skimmer (changing 3-way to match) and blow out that skimmer through the last return. I'll also open and close the heater vent valve during this last return to get all the water out of the heater.

At this point, all the returns and skimmers are blown out and you could add some RV antifreeze to the lines, typically by using a flexible hose and funnel. Then I cap the skimmer holes with expandable plugs.

Now it's time for the main drain. Mine requires an air compressor to build enough pressure to push water out of the line. I hook the air compressor up to the pump housing, through the drain plug using a NPT threaded fitting. I set the pressure to 15 psi, then turn on the compressor. Then I switch the 3-way valves to allow flow only to the MD, not the skimmers. I usually have to do this a couple times to get air to come out of the main drain. Once I get a good belch or two of air out of the MD, I close the 3 -way valves so the suction side is entirely closed off from flow (MD and skimmers are air locked). I don't bother trying to get any antifreeze in the MD line.

Half a jug of RV antifreeze gets poured in each skimmer on top of the plug, then each half empty bottle gets placed in the skimmer. The bottle helps absorb ice expansion if anything should freeze in the skimmer. I drain my sand filter just by opening the bottom drain and setting MPV valve to Winter (or between positions). All plugs get removed from the pump, placed in the pump basket. Turn off all the electrical breakers associated with the pool... and barring anything else minor I've forgotten, that's it aside from putting on the cover.
 
Here are the pictures:

Pool:
Pool_zps4eqodxsd.jpg

Equipment:
Equipment_zpsdst79ig9.jpg


Equipment Alternate View:
Equipment%20View%202_zpsfe07raow.jpg


Filter Head:
Filter%20Head_zps5gp1lecp.jpg


- - - Updated - - -

Any step by step instructions to my concerns above is greatly appreciated specific to my equipment! :D

Cheers!
 
g3lo:

I see that you have unions. This is where you need push air through with a shop vac or a compressor. There should also be a fitting on the basket (npt) where you can hook up an air compressor and blow out the lines. The compressor may work better than a shop vac. Place the multiport on recirculate and blow air and plug the return jets. The only issue here is that I do not see any type of shut off valves (from the pictures) to the skimmer and main drain. You have to close off the skimmer and main drain to blow out the returns and vice versa, unless you have a powerful blower.

In the event you do not have a shut off valve, then plug the suction side (in the pump basket) with a black rubber plug and close the return jets first. After you are done with the return jets, go back in and remove the plug on the suction side and plug the return side. Then you will have to blow out the skimmer and main drain. The main drain has to bubble for at least 30 to 60 seconds before closing it. If you do not have a shut off valve, then you must quickly plug the main drain and return line, which appears to be all the same.

When you are blowing air through the return line, it will move water out of the heater, etc. Please remember to remove the drain plugs on everything so no water is left in filter or heater. Outside the backwash hose, are there any shut off valve? Thanks!
 
I am so confused! I am in North Alabama where we get some below freezing but not for long periods of time. Here you might wear a tee- shirt one day and bundle up the next. So I have been told I don't have to blow out lines and when I opened there was not anything different with the eyeballs or any other returns. The skimmers have gizmo's just propped in there. I have the Aqua Genie skimmers and the closer only had Hayward gizmo's so he just propped them in and said that would work. I have bought the closing kit so I have chemicals on hand. I have a safety cover that I will be using. I have one anchor that was screwed in crooked in the spring and I can get it to budge...I even used my electric drill but it was useless. I sprayed lubricant on it hoping this will help. As far as the filter goes...last year they put it on winter, drain plugs, sight glass were placed int he skimmer basket. The salt generator was unscrewed and just offset from the pipe. No cove or anything...this year I will put a tarp over it just to protect it from the elements.

My water has dropped so much from evaporation that I am almost at skimmer level anyway so I guess I will filter my closing chemicals with the main drain only otherwise I will have to add water. Do I need to have the water level up for any reason??

To make this even more difficult I have a specialty shaped pool, 35,000 gallon, with 2main drain, 2 aqua genie skimmers, 2 eyeballs at the steps, 2 eye balls at the seats and a place for the Polaris to hook up. Does any of that need a plug and if so what kind.

I just need to know what I need in addition to the closing kit.
 

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If you decide to close the pool, you may just want to bring in a professional to blow out the lines, etc. It is entirely up to you. Finding someone on the side will not be that difficult. Please accept my apology as I do not know what other advice can be offered at this time. You may want to watch some videos on YouTube to see the actual concept on how people close their pools. In the end, it is all the same (blowing out the lines, etc.).

Outside of this, you may want to run the pump for 24 hours, especially the 1hp pump when the ambient air temperature gets below freezing. It does take a long time for pipes, etc. to freeze. This way, the water will not freeze if constantly moving through the system. Once the temperature gets back up over freezing, then shut off the pump. The electricity wasted may be minimal. All up to you at this point. Thanks!

BTW! Very nice pool!
 
If you decide to close the pool, you may just want to bring in a professional to blow out the lines, etc. It is entirely up to you. Finding someone on the side will not be that difficult. Please accept my apology as I do not know what other advice can be offered at this time. You may want to watch some videos on YouTube to see the actual concept on how people close their pools. In the end, it is all the same (blowing out the lines, etc.).

Outside of this, you may want to run the pump for 24 hours, especially the 1hp pump when the ambient air temperature gets below freezing. It does take a long time for pipes, etc. to freeze. This way, the water will not freeze if constantly moving through the system. Once the temperature gets back up over freezing, then shut off the pump. The electricity wasted may be minimal. All up to you at this point. Thanks!

BTW! Very nice pool!

Thank you for all the responses . . . I am still very confused on what to blow out where and how.

I guess I will have to read it slowly and attempt to do it one step at a time.

Thanks.
 

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Hi everyone,

So I purchased a safety cover from a local dealer and it included free closing. I took notes on what I saw how they closed it and will use these notes next season to close it myself.

Could you guys kindly review my notes and let me know if I have missed anything at all?

Thank you,
g3lo

http://www.filedropper.com/poolclosing
 
It appears that the pool company used the Cyclone? From that pictures at least.

Do you know if the main drain is built into the skimmer plumbing? And for the closing, it is simple. When a pool is open during the season, you have water being pulled into the filter from the pump and back through the return jets. For closing, you are merely blowing air through all the plumbing (backwards on the suction side) and same direction on the return side and plugging, closing, "air locking" the main/drain, etc.
 
I am not sure how the main drain operates, but it is my undertanding that I cannot drain the water using the main drain. I am assuming its just there for filtering purposes? The company that close the pool just put about a foot of pool closing foam inside and put a rubber stopper in there. They did not blow the main drain at all. Is this bad?
 
If you have a multi-port valve with all the settings, then you can drain the water from the main drain. If you can filter through it, you can use it with other functions. All the same piping, unless I am missing something.

company that close the pool just put about a foot of pool closing foam inside and put a rubber stopper in there. They did not blow the main drain at all. Is this bad?

This one is tricky to answer as we do not close pools this way. I would call the company and ask them why they did not blow out the main drain. It is possible you do not have a shut off valve. I never rely on warranties from pool companies during closing procedures. Something goes wrong and the homeowner usually is blamed for something.
 
I live in Markham and have been closing my own pool for years My setup is almost exactly like yours. I drain the pool to 1 inch below the inlet jets, use a shopvac to blow the skimmer line and inlet lines, pull the drain caps on the filter, heater (also I remove the heater pressure switch so the shopvac blower air can displace the water in the 3mm line) and pump housing,

I push a 2-3 foot length of foam backer rope. 3/4" dia down the main drain line at the skimmer (in your pic i think its the inlet closest to the pool) then using an expandable rubber plug; cap off the inlet/hole with the foam-rope trapped down in the line. (it will try to float out as you push it down.... floats up nice in the spring time when you remove the plug) Its worked perfectly for years. The water trapped in the drain line at the skimmer can freeze but compresses the foam backer rope.
 
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