Salt day has arrived, finally so a couple questions

Titan7

LifeTime Supporter
May 9, 2015
768
Peoria, AZ
I hit 60 days post fill so we are adding salt. I am at 1000ppm now and i am going to target 3000 at first which is 176 lbs per pool math. I picked up 5 bags of the Diamond solar salt at home depot, got scared off by the comments of rocks and other stuff in the mortons pool salt.

So my SWG, is on zero, or off as its been since day one. So ikeep the pump running for 24 hours, and just pour the bags in the pool? Shallow end? Deep end? Or every where? I read i need to brush it until it disolves. Is there a safe zone of time i need to ensure its 100% disolved and not sitting on the bottom?

Hopfully there is no metal bits or junk in the bags, perhaps is run the robot once i think everything is disolved?

Lastly, do one bag at a time or pour all 4+ bags at once?

Thx
 
Yep, bombs away all at once. Shallow end is easier to brush. Having it dissolved is not critical. Brushing just speeds the process. My experience is that in takes 24 to 48 hours hours for salt to fully dissolve and fully mix into the water.
 
Pour in all bags of long as you are sure you want go above target. You can hit it once with a brush. It will dissolve fairly quickly. Should be gone in a hour maybe. I would not turn on the SWG until tomorrow. That gives the salt time to fully dissolve and disburse. You don't want concentrated salty water going through your cell.
 
I've never anything that I could tell from that product. But a little something wouldn't be noticed.
 
Oh also, at 3000ppm of salt my CSI will be -0.51, as my ph dropped a bit from the CYA i added and i was moving TA down. Current PH is 7.3-7.4, at 7.6 my CSI will be -0.3. I figure i can turn the spill over on all day. Just want to make sure that i am okay.

Thx.

Mods, sorry i just noticed i put this in the wrong fourm.
 
If the water is warm enough, throw some people in the pool and tell them to swim around and splash a lot. Mixing is key because salt water has a higher specific density than pure water and it will take longer than you realize for the water to homogenize. People have reported salinity readout fluctuations as far as out three days after adding salt. Running a suction side cleaner (if you have one) can help disperse the salt water better. Even a robot will help a bit too. If you have a manual vacuum, then manually vacuuming the pool after all the salt crystals are gone while someone else brushes can be very effective too.
 
Got it, will manual vacuum after the salt is disolved. Its 94 today and 100 plus for the next couple days so yes we willbe swimming, but the water temp is 74 right now, it cools off to the 59-60 at night.
 
Got it, will manual vacuum after the salt is disolved. Its 94 today and 100 plus for the next couple days so yes we willbe swimming, but the water temp is 74 right now, i cools off to the 59-60 at night.

Good luck. Same kind of weather here. Gets hot during the day but cools into the high 60's at night. Pool starts the day in the high 70's and barely makes it to 82F. My kids all turn blue if the water temp is below 85F.
 

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Okay that was so easy, i dumped the salt on the baja shelf and got in with the brush, it was disolved in about 20 minutes!

I bushed the entire pool twice for good measure but wow that salt disolved fast, i will run the pump 24 hours and check salt level tomorrow.

Just check my aqualink and its now showing 2800pm for salt, that was fast, was aiming for 3000, but i will let it go overnight. If its still at 2800 after 24 hours should i add more salt to get it to 3000ppm? I assume i should not start the SWG until i am at 3000 ppm, right.

If I have to add more to get to 3000ppm, should i wait another 24 hours before turning on the SWG?

Yes the cold nights col off the pool, i am going to fit my solar cover soon. The pool is up to 77 now, but i will need to crank the heater for about 30 minutes to get to 82.
 
Strips can be off by as much as +/-400ppm. You should get a Taylor K-1766 chloride test kit. It is very accurate and measures chloride ion concentration exactly with no interferences. All other methods of salt determination are proxy methods and will have very wide tolerances.
 
Thanks, I will pick one up but what should I do now? At 2800ppm per Aqua link. Add another 18 lbs of salt to get to 3000 today or wait 24 hours and see if it changes the. Add salt tomorrow? I assume I need to wait 24 hrs after adding salt before turning on the salt cell.

Thanks
 
Thanks, I will pick one up but what should I do now? At 2800ppm per Aqua link. Add another 18 lbs of salt to get to 3000 today or wait 24 hours and see if it changes the. Add salt tomorrow? I assume I need to wait 24 hrs after adding salt before turning on the salt cell.

Thanks

If your AquaLink is reporting salinity then the cell is on (at least the sensor portion of it) but just not energized and producing chlorine. I'm not sure how often the AquaPure systems report salinity (Hayward has an instant salt reading as well as a moving average and Pentair only checks salinity once every 12 hours), but it will likely fluctuate a lot.

DO NOT ADD ANYMORE SALT. Wait. Let the water homogenize for at least 24 hours with the pumps running. Then check salinity again. You have to satisfy the salt cell's own internal salinity sensor so, even if you use strips or the K-1766, you need to add enough salt to make the AquaPure happy. I find my salt kit reads about 200ppm lower than my IntelliChlor reports. So, even though my K-1766 is the more accurate number, I still have to make sure the IC is happy.
 
Thanks Matt, the Aquapure salt sensor is live all the time. I was at 2900 pp. then turned my spa spill over on within 10 mins I was getting a reading of 2800ppm as the 460 gallons in the spa had not been circulated. I will wait until tomorrow, jandy tells me 3000-3500 on the sensor so should I go with that? Will wait for the reading tomorrow and will check back.
 

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