Hi. We have an above ground Intex, vinyl, holds between 10-11k gallons. Our pool is green but there is no algae present. We believe it is oxidized metals possibly. Our total alkalinity has been high lately. We have gotten that number back down to 120 ppm. Our chlorine level is between 2-3 ppm. The pH was a little low, 6.2, which we assume is from the steps taken to lower the alkalinity. We have added chemicals to raise the pH. My concern is that our pool is still green. How long should it take once alkalinity is in normal range for the green to disappear? Is there something we are missing? Something else we should look for or do? Or is this now just a waiting game? Thanks for any and all help
Green pool, no algae
- Thread starter Mhjennings
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome to TFP! 
From your description, it sounds as though you have metals in your water from the source. Are you on a well by chance? In any case, metals in water is typically a pool management chess game, and there's a couple important things you must have or know to proceed:
- The proper test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C); either of those are those only two we would recommend (I recommend the TF-100 - link below)
- Post a full set of results from either of those kits noted above
- Review the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page.
- Add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. Or you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later.
If this is indeed metals (iron specifically), then your two most important chemical issues right now would be pH and FC. Don't sweat the TA right now, but definitely make sure to raise that pH to about 7.2 for now. You can increase pH simply with aeration if you like, but being below 7.0 is a bit harsh. Keep your FC around the 3-5 ppm until we know what your true "CYA" (stabilizer) level is. Again, you'll want to use one fo the recommended test kits to confirm.
Keep in touch and nice to have you with us.
- - - Updated - - -
Also feel free to post a pic of your water. Have you tried linking your photos from Photobucket? That's what many of us do here on TFP. Upload your pics to Photobucket (free), then copy & paste the IMG code for that pic from Photobucket to your TFP post. Works great.
Also, you can try going to the bottom of your quick reply post where it says “Go Advanced”, and then down to where it says “Manage Attachments”. It may let you upload them that way. They may show-up large because you can't adjust the size of the attachment, but it may work.
From your description, it sounds as though you have metals in your water from the source. Are you on a well by chance? In any case, metals in water is typically a pool management chess game, and there's a couple important things you must have or know to proceed:- The proper test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C); either of those are those only two we would recommend (I recommend the TF-100 - link below)
- Post a full set of results from either of those kits noted above
- Review the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page.
- Add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. Or you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later.
If this is indeed metals (iron specifically), then your two most important chemical issues right now would be pH and FC. Don't sweat the TA right now, but definitely make sure to raise that pH to about 7.2 for now. You can increase pH simply with aeration if you like, but being below 7.0 is a bit harsh. Keep your FC around the 3-5 ppm until we know what your true "CYA" (stabilizer) level is. Again, you'll want to use one fo the recommended test kits to confirm.
Keep in touch and nice to have you with us.
- - - Updated - - -
Also feel free to post a pic of your water. Have you tried linking your photos from Photobucket? That's what many of us do here on TFP. Upload your pics to Photobucket (free), then copy & paste the IMG code for that pic from Photobucket to your TFP post. Works great.
Also, you can try going to the bottom of your quick reply post where it says “Go Advanced”, and then down to where it says “Manage Attachments”. It may let you upload them that way. They may show-up large because you can't adjust the size of the attachment, but it may work.
Just curious, but how have you determined that it is not algae? Your FC levels are at the bare minimum we suggest.
Thanks. That was the reading first thing this morning. Our chlorine levels have been mostly high lately. We quadruple shocked when we thought it was algae and nothing changed. We got in to vacuum and the bottom and sides did not feel at all like there was algae present and when we dipped water from the pool into a clear glass jar it was clear. I only noted this mornings readings. Maybe I should have said that our chlorine, both free and combined, have been running high (10 ppm at times) or in the normal range for a while now. The pH has fluctuated with our attempts to lower the TA. Now that it is lowered, we are working to get the pH back where it needs to be. Our stabilizer has been between 50-100 for a while now. My question, really, is how long should our pool stay green from oxidized metals once our readings are back where they should be?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If your situation is truly metals, the length of time it takes to clear varies based on precise chemical levels and the amount of metal (iron) in the water. What we would recommend first is confirming those test results with one of the recommended kits noted above. That's very important. When you state "Our stabilizer has been between 50-100 for a while now.", that's a world of difference. That number should be accurate within +/= 15ppm. If you are using test strips or pool store tests, that won't help. The only thing you might consider having tested at the pool store is your water "source" - before adding chlorine. Do that just to see what kind of metal content they show.
In my sig you'll see the "Chlorine/CYA Chart" link. You can see from that page the difference in CYA and FC ratio required, so it's very important to test your own CYA. The proper testing will come into play whether it's algae or metals.
In my sig you'll see the "Chlorine/CYA Chart" link. You can see from that page the difference in CYA and FC ratio required, so it's very important to test your own CYA. The proper testing will come into play whether it's algae or metals.