First K2006 Test... Won't turn pink?

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Uavmx

0
Sep 5, 2016
91
Albuquerque, NM
I attempted to do the FC test for the first time and I'm having issues.

First off, adding the powder makes it cloudy. The questions section says add dpd 1 and 2 first, then continue the test. My kit doesn't seem to have that. What do I do?

Secondly, it doesn't turn pink. Maybe very very slight pink. Again the questions from Taylor state to dilute the sample, which I did and it was less pink. Could I really have no chlorine?

Currently have pucks in the floatie thing. I have had to add water in the last couple weeks and had a bad wind storm that got it super dirty. But the water looks nice and clear!

What do I do?


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Which testkit do you have? Please add that to your signature. It sounds like you DO have very little chlorine. If you have some bleach on hand, dump a jug in tonight. As soon as it is sunny, do the CYA test and we can go from there.

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Duh... Your thread title says you have the K-2006. Am composing a new response. Still add that kit to your signature.

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The inner lid of your kit has the directions for both the 10 and 25 ml test. Neither one says anything about DPD 1 or 2. I am a bit confused. Try the FC test again with a 10ml sample, using 1 heaping scoop of powder and follow the directions on the lid. (Ignore the booklet).
 
duraleigh said:
Positively identify your test kit, please.
Click to expand...

edbabc4118614dd494eeb9fdc12b6783.jpg




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MarianParoo said:
Which testkit do you have? Please add that to your signature. It sounds like you DO have very little chlorine. If you have some bleach on hand, dump a jug in tonight. As soon as it is sunny, do the CYA test and we can go from there.

- - - Updated - - -

Duh... Your thread title says you have the K-2006. Am composing a new response. Still add that kit to your signature.

- - - Updated - - -

The inner lid of your kit has the directions for both the 10 and 25 ml test. Neither one says anything about DPD 1 or 2. I am a bit confused. Try the FC test again with a 10ml sample, using 1 heaping scoop of powder and follow the directions on the lid. (Ignore the booklet).
Click to expand...

In the trouble shooting questions section of the booklet it discusses the cloudyness issue and washed out issue. It's recommendations mentions using dpd #1 and Dpd #2 to get past the issues. I have no idea what those are, as none of the bottles are labeled that way.



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MarianParoo said:
Add some chlorine ASAP. You have next to no FC. Then test your CYA as soon as you have good sun.

In the meantime, you can start to familiarize yourself with PoolMath which will help you calculate any chemical additions. Here is a tutorial:
Pool School - PoolMath
Click to expand...

I wont know how much to add without testing cya right? What's wrong with testing cya in the dark?


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Uavmx said:
In the trouble shooting questions section of the booklet it discusses the cloudyness issue and washed out issue. It's recommendations mentions using dpd #1 and Dpd #2 to get past the issues. I have no idea what those are, as none of the bottles are labeled that way.



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Click to expand...

That booklet is a general guide to testing written by Taylor and is not specific to the K-2006 but includes information with respect to all of their testing reagents (for pools). The DPD#1 and #2 it refers to are the R-0001 and R-0002 reagents which are DPD-only reagents (no FAS titrating drops). Those are the FC testing reagents one would find in a K-1001 basic residential tester. Those drops would be used with a color matching cell (pink) for chlorine. The DPD-only reagents can be a way of testing for low chlorine without a lot of the "cloudiness" that can occur with the DPD powder (R-0870). These DPD chemicals are actually blends of multiple chemicals and some of the pH stabilizers in the powder can cause water with high calcium hardness to precipitate out insoluble calcium and magnesium compounds which causes the cloudiness. The cloudiness should not affect the test though. IN that case you would have a cloudy pink solution that, after titration, would go to a simply cloudy white color.

Based on your above info, you have no FC in your water at all. That's why it never turns pink when you add the DPD powder. SO, in that case, you add the powder and, since there's no color change, you record that as zero FC and then proceed to add the 5 drops of R-0003 to see if you have any CCs.
 

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JoyfulNoise said:
That booklet is a general guide to testing written by Taylor and is not specific to the K-2006 but includes information with respect to all of their testing reagents (for pools). The DPD#1 and #2 it refers to are the R-0001 and R-0002 reagents which are DPD-only reagents (no FAS titrating drops). Those are the FC testing reagents one would find in a K-1001 basic residential tester. Those drops would be used with a color matching cell (pink) for chlorine. The DPD-only reagents can be a way of testing for low chlorine without a lot of the "cloudiness" that can occur with the DPD powder (R-0870). These DPD chemicals are actually blends of multiple chemicals and some of the pH stabilizers in the powder can cause water with high calcium hardness to precipitate out insoluble calcium and magnesium compounds which causes the cloudiness. The cloudiness should not affect the test though. IN that case you would have a cloudy pink solution that, after titration, would go to a simply cloudy white color.

Based on your above info, you have no FC in your water at all. That's why it never turns pink when you add the DPD powder. SO, in that case, you add the powder and, since there's no color change, you record that as zero FC and then proceed to add the 5 drops of R-0003 to see if you have any CCs.
Click to expand...

Okay, even though it read zero, I did add five drops and there was little to no change. Does that mean no CC?


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Uavmx said:
Okay, even though it read zero, I did add five drops and there was little to no change. Does that mean no CC?


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Click to expand...

Hmmm...little to no color change, yeah, your CCs are close to 0ppm too. Basically you have no chlorine in your pool.
 
CYA test is a melamine-cyanurate turbidity test. Essentially the R-0013 reagent (melamine) reacts with all of the CYA in solution and forms a fine particulate suspension. The suspension occlude a black dot at the bottom of the tube where you visually watch it disappear as you add the test solutions. Proper lighting is absolutely key and, while it seems counter-intuitive, bright indirect outdoor lighting is what is needed.

From personal experience - I know my CYA is in the 70-80ppm range. When I tested recently, I had added enough CYA to get me to 80ppm and as I did the test (back to the noon sun, test vial held at waist height shadowed by my body) I could easily get 80ppm. I then redid the test (with the exact same sample solution) and the only difference was I stood under my porch awning. It was still super bright out and I held the tube so that it faced the bright out door light. The test read 60ppm every time. Just the difference of not having bright light overhead was enough to throw the test results off by 20ppm.

Doing it indoors under false color lighting from incandescent/fluorescent/LED lighting would be far, far worse. Wait until tomorrow to test and do it right, your pool isn't going anywhere.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
CYA test is a melamine-cyanurate turbidity test. Essentially the R-0013 reagent (melamine) reacts with all of the CYA in solution and forms a fine particulate suspension. The suspension occlude a black dot at the bottom of the tube where you visually watch it disappear as you add the test solutions. Proper lighting is absolutely key and, while it seems counter-intuitive, bright indirect outdoor lighting is what is needed.

From personal experience - I know my CYA is in the 70-80ppm range. When I tested recently, I had added enough CYA to get me to 80ppm and as I did the test (back to the noon sun, test vial held at waist height shadowed by my body) I could easily get 80ppm. I then redid the test (with the exact same sample solution) and the only difference was I stood under my porch awning. It was still super bright out and I held the tube so that it faced the bright out door light. The test read 60ppm every time. Just the difference of not having bright light overhead was enough to throw the test results off by 20ppm.

Doing it indoors under false color lighting from incandescent/fluorescent/LED lighting would be far, far worse. Wait until tomorrow to test and do it right, your pool isn't going anywhere.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks everyone! I'll stock up on supplies tomorrow and test again. I don't have any liquid chlorine at home.


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