Anyone Have a Winter Pool Dome - Ameridome or Others?

The astronauts on the International Space Station are still trying to figure out what that new "blob" is that has appeared in Michigan...certainly the work of sentient alien beings :cyclopsani:
 
^We actually noticed that when our projector screen is up in the family room that the projector through the window cast an image on the wall of the dome ;) We do have a spare projector we talked about playing around with but be do have a "no electrical cords in the dome" rule. The speaker that we take in there now and then is wireless and water resistant and can sit safely in a corner where I have a table...and we don't leave it in there.

Matt, hubby has entertained himself taking infrared pictures of the dome ;) We might be in trouble if an heat seeking missiles are unleashed!
 
The mfg creates a custom storage bag and gives explicit instructions on how to clean then acordain-fold-float the dome down to storage size. He then recommends people build a deck bx that can double as a table. But in our case, we have a storage area and pallet rack inside the pool house that I think I will instead rig up a wheeled slat to fit into to "park" it for the summer.

My pal who has PB experience thinks it might be even better for the vinyl to store it in chlorinated water in a drum or wheeled supersized garbage cart to avoid any temperature impact and wrinkles. He has stored liners for installation this way over winter before and thinks its better for the vinyl and avoids pest damage. I haven't worked out which way to go yet. If we were confident in a chest build in terms of rodents, we also will have the option of building the storage box outdoors under the observatory platform, which is where I might keep the blower and heater tucked away either way.

The aircraft cable used for anchoring is coated so I'm not worried about corrosion that way, and the snap dome doors are removable.

Input welcome ;)
 
News from the "Trouble Bubble" ;)

My electrician had to cancel today (working OT) but stopped yesterday to check to see if pool light can be separated from GFCI outlet for controller (it can as it feeds load side) and to check panel model for interlock for generator.

During visit we undid heater panel to see where remote will wire. Came home late last night and no power to heater to turn on...but black wire in to raypak transformer shows as live according to multimeter. Not getting live light out from blue to control panel.

Hubby thinks we somehow blew transformer fooling around yesterday. Cannot get a replacement transformer til Mon and none local. But I'm not sure how to properly test transformer to Dx if that's the problem or not. Any tips welcome.

Know its a slow time but thought I'd throw that out there. Temp has dropped 10 degrees in 30 hours s I guess I can make it to Monday without trouble but don't like skipping physio ;)
 
What kind of problem are you trying to test for in the transformer? Transformers are typically really hard to damage unless they are (A) cheaply made, or (B) you go out of your way to damage them by exceeding their electrical ratings. You can beat a good transformer with a telephone pole and it will still mostly work.

The only tests you can do with a multimeter is to look for shorts across the windings or a short from one side of the windings to the magnetic core. As long as the primary and secondary are isolated and there are no shorts to ground, the transformer should still work.
 

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My electrician had to cancel today (working OT) but stopped yesterday to check to see if pool light can be separated from GFCI outlet for controller (it can as it feeds load side) and to check panel model for interlock for generator.

Also, if you remove the pool light power from the GFCI outlet and wire it directly to the circuit breaker panel (light is energized directly from the CB panel), then the breaker should be a GFCI breaker and not a standard breaker. The CB's that control my pool/spa lights are just basic CB's BUT the wiring is run through the backend of the GFCI utility outlet and then on to the switch relays of the automation panel. So the lights derive their "safety" from that outlet. If I were to remove that outlet or otherwise try to power the relays with a direct run from the CB's, then I would have to switch the CBs to the more expensive GFCI type.

Just a thought....
 
What kind of problem are you trying to test for in the transformer?

Lol. Just looking for any clue as to where the problem is or why the problem is...the switch to the feed line is working as the tester lights up on the line according to the switch being flipped.

The volts going into transformer should be 120, and should be coming out the secondary, stepped down blue line at 24V. Instead of 24V, I'm getting NO VOLTS from what I can tell. But not sure if there's something I am missing. Can't figure out why the transformer would fail. Clearly was connected to us takig panel off, looking at wires, tucking them back in and closing the panel.
 
Do you have an actual voltmeter and not just a simple circuit tester?

If there were any type of short, you would trip a breaker somewhere and there would likely be a distinct burn odor coming from the windings. Without a good ohmmeter/voltmeter, it's really hard to test a transformer. But I can say this - transformers don't go down very easily and so just fiddling with the wires is usually not enough to "break" them.
 
^yeah, the multimeter for sure reads 120v going into the transformer...the secondary wires were hard to read at transformer because couldn't quite get at them as ground wire is too short to pull it out of cubby but at the p6 location on the board got nothing where there should have been 24 volts...manually connected the two ends of the blue wire at switch and it did not close the loop/bypass so we're kinda assuming we don't have anything coming out of the transformer otherwise it should have bypassed the switch.

Pool is now (at 1 am) down to 83.4 at 40 hours since heat and 94. Driving me crazy but at this point can only hope a new transformer resolves the issue ;)
 
Lol. Coupled with my dropping water temp, (now 79.9) the air inside temp is dropping with the water temp and we're getting 3-5 inches tonight...dome is starting to look a hi like an igloo but has not yet sunk ;)

(Also, Bob asked for pic of the transformer)

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5" of heavy, wet snow later, the south end farthest from the blower collapsed under slide weight but only on the furthest deck portion...the dome over water portion stayed fully inflated.

I have a deck box at that end that I think created a gully of sorts where snow couldn't clear so I may rethink that...but there is one handrail there anyway, so hubby's theory is that the deck box makes it easier to just push on vinyl from inside to clear...which we did and the entire dome was back to normal in a minute or two.

If this is always "the way" it will collapse during snow events I may be ok as I could have easily swam last night even without clearing it...had my heater been working ;)

In retrospect and for posterity, if I were to redo the dome, I'd have made the south end smaller instead of having 6 feet of concrete on that end because in deep cold if I miss the opportunity to clear it then it may not get cleared until thaw. (We shall see.) But since the barometric switch seems to sense the air pressure suited to the "smaller" resulting space, this may not functionally be an actual problem.
 
Trouble Bubble/Wonder Dome STARLOG:
- It was indeed the transformer AND something on the board...certified raypak tech swapped out same. Our working theory is that the wire nut on the red wire fell off and caused short.

It took about the full 24 hours to get back up to temp...about four hours longer than my calculations for the heater so I checked my math and discovered that choosing the cupronickel exchanger means I only get 240,000 btu instead of 266,000 btu, which accords with the time it took to recover the heat.

In terms of cost, the heat was about a wash...didn't heat from Friday night til Monday afternoon, so saved about $30-36 but the 24 hr run up cost about $34 in gas.

Also learned that in winter emergencies with pump running and "slightly" below freezing temps I can go 72 hours and only lose about 20 degrees. Not interested in finding out how fast it would drop in seriously low temps ;)

At any rate, happily swimming again and curious to see how we'll do in coming deeper freeze.

Did find out from the Raypak guy that one of his long term clients in town has been using air domes on his pool for years. I think I will keep this tech's number handy as he thus understood immediately the stakes on temp loss and drove to his distributor immediately for the board when the transformer swap still left the board dead ;)

Btw, this whole crazy experiment started over my need for physiotherapy (restricted to water) after a combined meniscus tear, bad arthritis and exacerbation from a cipro reaction. For the first time in six months, I've been walking without a limp or pain for almost 2 weeks now.
My massage therapist said Sunday this is "the healthiest" she's seen my tissue since June, so to keep up what I'm doing.

For me, the dome has been totally worth all the shenanigans. While I certainly could have done aqua therapy at a local pool, I don't think I'd be nearly as compliant.
 
Snow Dome STARLOG Update (for those considering a dome)

More than 8" fell yesterday here. Schools closed, etc. Dome stayed up and intact this time...did start accumulating a few inches in evening hours on corners, after the heater had been off for 12 hours and lost 4 degrees. Turned the heater back on at 9 pm and the accumulation melted off, likely because the air temp inside dome rose to mid 50s. Even though it was snowing hard, most of the snow melted off during daylight hours. Had the full 8" been at night, suspect dome may have sunk.

This air warming assistance will not likely be the case in a deep freeze with prolonged zero-type temps as there's no way the air heater/handler can derive much more than +20 degrees from its source, which means air temps inside dome will likely fall well below freezing on a zero temp night. We're getting one such night this week, so we'll see what happens then. It will be a good preview of deep winter issues, I suspect. Its not normal to get more than a handful of -zero temps here consecutively.
 

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