Draining Pool for new Liner prior to Winterizing - How to treat new water

[NYAVGUY]

My liner ripped above the water line in two places over the summer and patches could not hold them due to the force. My pool contractor told me I had to replace the liner before winter to avoid the rips getting worse and going down the water line, leading to the pool draining and possible wall collapse.

After I refill the water, he told me that I should balance the PH, shock the pool with liquid chlorine, and worry about the rest in the spring. I am thinking that it can't hurt for me to go through the effort of doing everything and closing the pool with properly balanced water. I would ensure TA & CH was in range, add CYA, and bring the Salt up to 3500ppm for an easy spring start-up. I would also have the pool store check for metals in the water and get rid of those. Any suggestions on what order to do all this with fresh water?

My closing / opening procedure is a little different. I have a filtering mesh cover. In the fall, I put the cover on as as soon as it is too cold to use the pool and to prevent leaves from getting in. I run the pump for 1-2 hours per day to keep the water chlorinated until the weather gets below 60 during the day. I then superchlorinate, add algeacide, and winterize the lines and equipment. In the spring, I de-winterize usually in late April to start getting chlorine into the pool so it doesn't turn green, but don't take the cover off until late May when we are ready to start using it. I should probably post this in the proper area with more detail when I have time.

Thanks!

 

[NYAVGUY]

I guess I have the right plan since there are no responses.

 

[Isaac-1]

Sorry it looks like your post had fallen through the cracks, I can't help on the winterizing (we don't do that down here). As to the rest since you have a vinyl liner pool low CH should be a non-issue, only concern is high CH build up scaling. You do know that metals can't be effectively removed, only treated?

Hopefully someone else will chime in here

Ike

 

[NYAVGUY]

ok, so I have started the process.

SWG Bypass cell is installed to protect cell until chemistry is correct.
City tap water readings:
FC 0.5-1 (surprising)
PH-7.2
CH-25
TA-40

I started out by putting in 8lbs of Baking soda to raise TA, waited about 1-hour then added 48oz of 12.5% liquid shock in the skimmer very slowly (I was worried about affecting the new liner and know it is recommended to do this at the returns, but both my returns are in the shallow end). 1-hour later I started adding CYA in by putting 4 lbs in a skimmer sock.
12-hours later I have the following readings:

PH - 7.2
FC - 7
CC - 0.5
TA - 80 (I over shot a little as I was going for 70).

I added one bag of salt this morning, but it was tough to dissolve in 68 degree water, so I think I am going to scrap the idea of getting the Salt level ready for spring and just do that in the spring.

Next Steps:
1. I plan to start bringing up the CH to about 200 (vynall reccomend 175 - 250)
2. I will test CYA on Saturday to see where it is
3. I will be monitoring FC, PH and TA twice a day

I also have to get the water tested for metals as it has a slight green tint. Not much discussion on what to use for this. The two products my pool store has is Metal Free by Natural Chemistry and Metal Klear by Sea Klear (now owned by Natural chemistry). Maybe I should start another string on this.