I just had a in ground gunite 12,000 gallon pool installed, and I need assistance/recommendations for ideal rpm speeds for my pump, as well as, setting up run times. My equipment is Pentair variable speed 2 VST pump, intellichlor IC-40, 2 Hayward skimmers, Pentair clean and clear plus cartridge filter, 4 deck jets, 1 bubbler, 2 returns, Polaris which has booster pump running 2 hours a day from 6am-8am. Right now the PB set the system to run at 2200rpm 24/7. I have not had any issues with this, but figured there is probably a better schedule to run and you guys would be the ones to ask. I do not run the deck jets all the time, but the bubbler runs pretty much 24/7. What kind of rpm speeds/schedule's are you guys running with your salt water setups both in summer and winter? Thanks for the help.
Setting a schedule for my equipment
- Thread starter Baydwelur
- Start date
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here 
You can add a "signature" which includes your pool and equipment list. It will help you get the best possible advice here. Instructions are in "Read Before Posting" which is linked in my signature (below).
Here's a good link about pump run time: Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Pump run times around 4 hours in winter and 8 hours in summer are reasonable starting points, and you'll find wide variation from person to person.
In a 12,000 gallon pool, your IC40 will produce about 0.6 ppm FC per hour at 100%. A run time of 4 hours at 100% would be 2.4 ppm FC which is very roughly what a clean pool with family bather load might need. Running the IC40 for 8 hours at 50% would have the same effect.
You could start at something like 8 hours, 1500 RPM, 60% on the SWC and then see how it goes. Check FC daily for a while, and also determine if you're satisfied with the skimming and the effect from the water features. Adjust from there to meet your preferences and the pool's needs.
Here's a basic pool care schedule that you might find helpful as well: Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
And congratulations on the new pool!
You can add a "signature" which includes your pool and equipment list. It will help you get the best possible advice here. Instructions are in "Read Before Posting" which is linked in my signature (below).
Here's a good link about pump run time: Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Pump run times around 4 hours in winter and 8 hours in summer are reasonable starting points, and you'll find wide variation from person to person.
In a 12,000 gallon pool, your IC40 will produce about 0.6 ppm FC per hour at 100%. A run time of 4 hours at 100% would be 2.4 ppm FC which is very roughly what a clean pool with family bather load might need. Running the IC40 for 8 hours at 50% would have the same effect.
You could start at something like 8 hours, 1500 RPM, 60% on the SWC and then see how it goes. Check FC daily for a while, and also determine if you're satisfied with the skimming and the effect from the water features. Adjust from there to meet your preferences and the pool's needs.
Here's a basic pool care schedule that you might find helpful as well: Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
And congratulations on the new pool!
Sorry for such a late response, but I appreciate the info. I have set my pump to run 8hrs a day at 1500rpm and 60% salt. It seems to be fine. I just recently got my water tested at pinch a penny, and my chlorine was 0. my aklinity was high and my calcium was low. What areas are the most important for chemicals to maintain weekly and monthly? They recommended adding stabilizer, calcium, and acid. Cost was about $65 for 4 pounds of stabilizer, 4 pounds of calcium, and 2 gallons of acid. Seemed kind of high but I am new to pools...lol. I am feeling a little overwhelmed by the chemistry and debating on paying someone to do it hence me asking what chemicals to focus on that are the most important.
At TFP we recommend buying a good, drop based test kit and testing and maintaining your own water with no trips to the pool store. I use the TF-100 from TFTestkits.net.
Do a little reading in Pool School, start here
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Getting Started
Do a little reading in Pool School, start here
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Getting Started
I read through the online documentation and it was very helpful with helping me understand which chemicals and tests are the most important which brings me to more concern of why my FC is 0. Like I said before I am running my pump at 1500rpm for 8hrs 8am-4pm at 60% SWG. Should I attempt to increase the SWG to increase the run time to 10hrs or 12hrs or increase my SWG to 80% and see what happens? I also use the shock function on the IC40 once a week which basically increases chlorine production for 24hrs. Thoughts?
I haven't put my IC40 on 100% output in several years. I do add a jug of bleach to my pool before swim parties, after parties or if FC is a little low. A jug adds 4 ppm FC to my pool instantly.
I would set the pump runtime to a number of hours that gets your pool as clean as you want it and then adjust the SWG percentage from there.
I would set the pump runtime to a number of hours that gets your pool as clean as you want it and then adjust the SWG percentage from there.
I am new to all this so I apologize if I am beating a dead horse...lol. When you say "as clean as you want it" are talking about clarity? If so my pool looks great, but the FC is showing 0. Are you suggesting increasing run time until I reach the appropriate FC level and adjusting the percentage on the IC40?
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
No worries, we're all happy to explain
Filtration time is for clarity. Filtration time and pump time are much the same thing, and the purpose of pumping is circulation of water, pushing water through the filter for removal of particles that make the pool look cloudy, and for skimming leaves and bugs off the surface, and/or running water features. So yep, pump run time is mostly adjusted for clarity, but also probably for the time of day you want the pool free of floating debris.
So if the pool is as clean as you like it, increase your SWC % as high as needed to maintain your target FC level.
Any time that FC drops below your bare minimum (5% of CYA), immediately add chlorinating liquid or bleach to get to target. This is just to protect from the chance of an algae bloom. I would brush the pool right then as well. Then, having learned your trend of FC dropping lower than you want it to be, adjust the SWC to a higher % and test a day or two later to see if you're maintaining the FC level you want, and adjust as needed.
Think about pump run time and SWC output as two separate things. Pump run time is for circulation and cleaning; SWC is your chlorine factory.
Filtration time is for clarity. Filtration time and pump time are much the same thing, and the purpose of pumping is circulation of water, pushing water through the filter for removal of particles that make the pool look cloudy, and for skimming leaves and bugs off the surface, and/or running water features. So yep, pump run time is mostly adjusted for clarity, but also probably for the time of day you want the pool free of floating debris.
So if the pool is as clean as you like it, increase your SWC % as high as needed to maintain your target FC level.
Any time that FC drops below your bare minimum (5% of CYA), immediately add chlorinating liquid or bleach to get to target. This is just to protect from the chance of an algae bloom. I would brush the pool right then as well. Then, having learned your trend of FC dropping lower than you want it to be, adjust the SWC to a higher % and test a day or two later to see if you're maintaining the FC level you want, and adjust as needed.
Think about pump run time and SWC output as two separate things. Pump run time is for circulation and cleaning; SWC is your chlorine factory.
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