iAquaLink 2.0 Upgrade and Heater Doesn't Work Now

[gmichal]

A few weeks ago, I had my Aqualink RS-8 primary PCB go out after some wires shorted in the control cabinet. As the PCB was no longer available nor was there an alternate, I had no option but to upgrade to the iAquaLink 2.0, Rev T PCB. I followed the directions included in the upgrade kit any everything works great...except my Jandy LXi pool and spa heater.

There is nothing on the Jandy LXi pool heater display nor are any of the lights on. It is almost as if there is no power to the pool heater but that can't be the case as I didn't do anything with the control panel wiring; only replaced the primary PCB. The instructions with the iAquaLink 2.0 upgrade kit didn't mention anything about changing any of the dip switches and everything works great except for the heater.

When we enable the heater, no lights nor noises can be heard but it does seem like we can barely smell some gas. I have no idea what settings in the software or on the PCB board might be necessary to get my pool and spa heater working.

I would appreciate any and all help in solving this problem.

 

[kadavis]

Follow the the conduit that supplies power to the heater to the control panel. Where is this connected? Check voltage going out to heater. If you have power to heater ck to see that transformer is okay. Also did you put the low voltage wires back on the new board where they belong?

 

[Pool Clown]

I had my Aqualink RS-8 primary PCB go out after some wires shorted in the control cabinet.

Can you elaborate as to what wiring was affected? Was this high voltage wiring?

 

[ps0303]

Here is a link to a manual for the heater. Page 25 talks about remote connections to the heater. You might find some info there to allow you to troubleshoot it.

After you confirm that the wiring is all good and right, then I would try and put the heater back in normal mode, not remote, and see if you can operate the heater manually from its own control panel on the heater. At least you can confirm that the heater is still functional.

http://www.poolcenter.com/medias/pdf/MP_3540/jandy_heaters_LXI_manual.pdf

 

[gmichal]

Thank you for all of the posts. That was my first post and I thought that I was going to be notified when I received a response. Live and learn...

The wires that shorted were the pool pump high-voltage and a 24VAC control wire. With the pump running 105+ degree temps, and the box mounted on the south side of the house, I assumed that was enough heat to melt the insulation. But, regarding the heater not working, it could be entirely unrelated to changing out the controls and replacing damaged wiring for the pump.

The panel of the pool heater appears to have no display nor lights on; just link if there were no power to it. So it can't run it from that panel. My original thought is that there was something that needed to be set from the iAqualink 2.0 controls, such as a dip switch.

 

[watsowatso]

Evidently you're not getting power to the heater, or maybe the transformer is shot. I would follow kadavis' suggestions.

I also have the LXi heater with iAqualink 2.0. My LXi panel displays "remote TSTAT" even when the filter pump and everything else is off.

 

[Pool Clown]

Melted wires would not be from high ambient temps. Motor drawing too many amps, wrong voltage, or more common, loose connection(s) at point of melting. If the wires melted the insulation, then shorted on high voltage side, you may have a damaged relay... or board.

If the board, that short should have killed your transformer along the way too. I would confirm the 24 v from the heaters' xformer and the signal wire from the Aqualink to the heater. Maybe even remove the signal wire to rule out the automation (connect the two wires at the heater where the signal wire had connected).