I have an 18,000 gallon above ground chlorine pool with a sand filter. Last winter the cover came off my pool and left my pool in a sad state when I attempted to open if this spring. I have been fighting with the pool all summer and only had a semi good conditions for about 2 weeks this summer. My water remains green at this time despite all the store bought chemicals I have placed in it. I'm trying to decide what would be my best options to close the pool for winter and hopefully start over again in the spring. I have put so much money in chemicals this year already and am hoping to find a cost efficient way to close and also open next spring. Any advice would be helpful.
Pool closing
- Thread starter Kcstoffer
- Start date
Well, if you are interested in following our methods, you need to get a testkit that you can use at home. We are not fans of pool $tore testing. I use a K-2006C, but here is a link to peruse: Pool School - Test Kits Compared
You should have time to get it in shape for closing and open clear in the spring. It will require some diligence on your part, though.
Let us know your decision and we can go from there.
You should have time to get it in shape for closing and open clear in the spring. It will require some diligence on your part, though.
Let us know your decision and we can go from there.
Welcome to TFP Kc,
Opinions may vary, but if this were mine, I would get it cleaned before closing. I wish you'd found us earlier but it isn't too late. I know it doesn't sound appealing, but you'll need to put a little more into the pool to ensure that next opening will be easy. Following our methods usually saves people some money, but more importantly you will have a clean pool and be off the roller coaster you were on all summer. Your pool will be clear with you in full control, and without any help or expense from the pool store.
There will be plenty of folks to help with any questions that arise, but you have to begin with the ABCs in Pool School for a start. The rest of the answers are elsewhere in there, or here on the forum. It seems like a lot at first but its really simple once you have the fundamentals down. A little knowleedge, and doing your own testing and acting on it is all it really takes. Dig in a bit, and let us know how we can help.
Opinions may vary, but if this were mine, I would get it cleaned before closing. I wish you'd found us earlier but it isn't too late. I know it doesn't sound appealing, but you'll need to put a little more into the pool to ensure that next opening will be easy. Following our methods usually saves people some money, but more importantly you will have a clean pool and be off the roller coaster you were on all summer. Your pool will be clear with you in full control, and without any help or expense from the pool store.
There will be plenty of folks to help with any questions that arise, but you have to begin with the ABCs in Pool School for a start. The rest of the answers are elsewhere in there, or here on the forum. It seems like a lot at first but its really simple once you have the fundamentals down. A little knowleedge, and doing your own testing and acting on it is all it really takes. Dig in a bit, and let us know how we can help.
One of our recommended test kits sounds like an absolute no- brainer decision after the money you've spent on probably mostly unnecessary chemicals. Fixing it now will be a LOT easier than next spring---especially with cooler temps.
If I were to purchase a test kit now would I be able to use the same kit in the spring or would I have to purchase another?
It takes very minimal testing and chemical additions over the winter. Your reagents in the kit are good for 18 months.
I just got my Taylor K-2006 test kit. Where do I go from here? What all tests do I need to preform and do I report the results on this forum?
xcrazydx
0
Just a note of encouragement...until you fully understand the TFP way of life, it will all seem a bit overwhelming, but I found this forum after a pool store fiasco and it took me a few weeks of hand holding and reading and studying to get it all down pat...my pool is so clear and clean and has been since the day I had to dump it and refill it because of the aforementioned pool store fiasco....have faith and keep reading the links...it all starts to make sense as you see it in action for a few weeks! I am getting ready to close my pool and due to my newfound knowledge, I have no plan to even cover mine this winter...just gonna let it sit after a proper closing and I am guessing I will open with nothing but some vacuuming needed 
I plan to upgrade to an SWG and a sand filter next year to make it all even better!
good luck and bear with it, you got this!
I plan to upgrade to an SWG and a sand filter next year to make it all even better!
good luck and bear with it, you got this!
I hope I did this right
Fc-0 my water never turned pink
Cc-0
Ph-8.0
Ta-130
Ch-310
Cya-30 I added all the mixed solution and could still faintly see the black dot
What should I do now? I just want to get it to a closing level.
Fc-0 my water never turned pink
Cc-0
Ph-8.0
Ta-130
Ch-310
Cya-30 I added all the mixed solution and could still faintly see the black dot
What should I do now? I just want to get it to a closing level.
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Leave the Cya as is. Reduce the pH to 7.2, and start adding your Chlorine to maintain a minimum of 12 PPM FC. Make sure your pH is down before you get the FC above 10. Your primary goal should be to not let the Chlorine fall and remain below 12 once youve done this. Stay on it, and don't let up on this until the pool is clear, and the SLAM is complete. Any junk or debris will slow you down, so get the pool as clean as possible with scooping, netting...whatever. Brush and scrub any visible Algae vigorously and often. You cannot brush too much or too often, but any attached Algae needs removing. Pump running 24/7, and keep a close eye on it for pressure rise. Backwash and refill as needed, but do not slack on Chlorine addition any more than you can possibly help. It will take time and effort, but it will come around.
I'm sorry but I'm completely new to this method. I've always used store bought chemicals for my pool. What and how much should I use to increase chlorine and get ph to 7.2.
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
Here are some good links:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
One more:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
One more:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
This is a great way to ditch the pool store. Muriatic acid to lower pH, regular bleach. Don't use splashless bleach or scented. Just regular normal 8.25% or higher bleach. The pool school page is easiest to have if you print it out. That way it is right in front of you when standing beside pool. Walmart has bleach and home depot or Lowes has MA. Read the SLAM procedure 10x cause that's the first thing you need to do. Kill all the algae before you close the pool. What is your water temp? This sounds crazy but your gonna need probably 20 gallons maybe more of bleach. No pucks, no shock, no sticks, no granular chemicals. Don't buy the cheapest bleach from other places...like big lots, it's way too low concentration. You will also need a few days where you can give it your undivided attention. This is very fixable just roll up your sleeves and "dive in"!!!!
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to TFPPlease add your pool and equipment info to your signature as outlined here. - - > Pool School - Getting Started
To figure out how much of what to add you just need to use "Pool Math". There is a link up at the top of each page.
When buying bleach it can get confusing since it comes in different size jugs and different streangths. Here is a really handy app that allows you to compare 96 oz 10% to 128 oz 6%. It will reduce price down to what you are paying for just the bleach per oz at equal streangth. It's like being able to compare apples to oranges. Chlorine Price Per Ounce Calculator
Purchasing "Concentrated" is ok it's just a little stronger than the regular 6% stuff but you do want to stay away from anything scented or splashless/easy pour. They can cause foaming.
You should lower the pH closer to 7.4 and get some chlorine (FC) in there. For a CYA of 30 you should be keeping FC at 4 and never let it get below 2. It's in this table - -> Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart How is your water clarity presently ?? Can you post a picture of your steps ?? The steps are handy in giving a reference.
Just ask about anything you're unsure of and we can walk you through it.
I'm trying to use the calculator, but I'm having issues. It will figure the amount of borax I need to add but it does not tell me how much bleach to add. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Also should I worry about the chlorine and ph levels at the same time or try and get chlorine level up then get ph to where it should be?
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- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
Lower pH first then add enough bleach to get to 4 like Kiss4aFrog said. After you add acid, let that mix around for 15-20 minutes and then test again to make sure you did it right. If anything, undershoot the amount by a little. It's better to take baby steps than to drop the pH past 7. Once you are in the 7.2 to 7.4 range add the bleach.
Don't worry about borates right now, lets get pH and FC in a good range. That's the top 3 things in the calculator. Put your pool size in the top, your current FC (0) in the left column and 4 in the right. Put 8.0 in the left column for pH and 7.4 in the right. Now it will tell you how much acid to add, and then once pH is good how much chlorine to add.
Don't worry about borates right now, lets get pH and FC in a good range. That's the top 3 things in the calculator. Put your pool size in the top, your current FC (0) in the left column and 4 in the right. Put 8.0 in the left column for pH and 7.4 in the right. Now it will tell you how much acid to add, and then once pH is good how much chlorine to add.
Thank you. I was putting my current/goal in the wrong columns. That's why I wasn't getting any results. Also I'm trying to get my pool ready to close so should I get my chlorine level up to 10?
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- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
It sounds like your water isn't in the greatest shape. If you SLAM it now, you can clear it up. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
It's still warm in Ohio, too warm to close. I'd wait until the water is 60 or less to close it. If you SLAM it, wait for the water to get cold before you close it and open while it's still cold in the spring you'll have a crystal clear pool right away, not a springtime project.
It's still warm in Ohio, too warm to close. I'd wait until the water is 60 or less to close it. If you SLAM it, wait for the water to get cold before you close it and open while it's still cold in the spring you'll have a crystal clear pool right away, not a springtime project.