First time closing pool!

Mar 17, 2016
32
Villa Park/Illinois
Just wanted to make sure I was doing this right. Bring pool up to shock level for 24 hours, add polyquat algaecide and let mix for an hour. Drain pool 6 inches below return, Plug skimmer and return.

I have lines that are in the ground as shown. Do I cover the other end where I disconnect the pump and inline chlorinator? Do I have to do anything to my heater? I also have one of those lights that are integrated with the return.

I know it's a lot of questions!

image.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pPp5OYe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPfcH8N.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DwOn89y.jpg
 
I know it's a lot of questions!

Welcome to the Forum! There is never a lot of questions on this forum. AGP can be closed a little different. The key is to make sure that no water is sitting in the piping that can freeze during the winter months. Assuming you do not have a main drain and possibly a skimmer and some returns. You could actually plug the lines and suck the water out with a strong wet vac. Last year, I closed the main drain and return jets and used my wet vacuum first (after water was lowered below the skimmers). I was totally shocked to see how much water was actually removed from the skimmer lines. When I blew out the skimmers (with my blower, very little water was left). This was a long run as well. It appears you have a short distance with one skimmer and one return (which are close together).

If this does not work, you will have to blow air through the system. You can disconnect at the pump and blow air through the heater as well. There should be a drain plug there and I believe a drain plug on your DE Filter (I have sand and not familiar with DE).

Lastly, allow the chlorine to drop down to a normal level. Last year, my chlorine was consumed quickly by the algaecide. The reason for the shock level is too clean up the pool prior to closing. With the solid cover, my pool stay closed from October to April (7 months) and within 2 hours after opening the pool, the water is crystal clear . Then I vacuum after taking cover off. When you open the pool next year, you may want to leave the cover on for a day or so as the cleaning up part is a lot faster this way. Of course, adjust chemicals, especially PH if it dropped low over the winter.
 
Welcome to the Forum! There is never a lot of questions on this forum. AGP can be closed a little different. The key is to make sure that no water is sitting in the piping that can freeze during the winter months. Assuming you do not have a main drain and possibly a skimmer and some returns. You could actually plug the lines and suck the water out with a strong wet vac. Last year, I closed the main drain and return jets and used my wet vacuum first (after water was lowered below the skimmers). I was totally shocked to see how much water was actually removed from the skimmer lines. When I blew out the skimmers (with my blower, very little water was left). This was a long run as well. It appears you have a short distance with one skimmer and one return (which are close together).

If this does not work, you will have to blow air through the system. You can disconnect at the pump and blow air through the heater as well. There should be a drain plug there and I believe a drain plug on your DE Filter (I have sand and not familiar with DE).

Lastly, allow the chlorine to drop down to a normal level. Last year, my chlorine was consumed quickly by the algaecide. The reason for the shock level is too clean up the pool prior to closing. With the solid cover, my pool stay closed from October to April (7 months) and within 2 hours after opening the pool, the water is crystal clear . Then I vacuum after taking cover off. When you open the pool next year, you may want to leave the cover on for a day or so as the cleaning up part is a lot faster this way. Of course, adjust chemicals, especially PH if it dropped low over the winter.

Great thanks for replying! That's some good info
 
I am assuming you have only one return jet and one skimmer! Correct? You may not even have to take the unions apart. Try working within the pump. There may be a fitting that you can use if you have a air compressor. Remember, VOLUME, not pressure. There should be drains on the heater and filter.
 
I am assuming you have only one return jet and one skimmer! Correct? You may not even have to take the unions apart. Try working within the pump. There may be a fitting that you can use if you have a air compressor. Remember, VOLUME, not pressure. There should be drains on the heater and filter.

Yes only one return and skimmer and I do have a compressor. What fitting are you referring too?
 
Samt:

Nice job on the pictures.

I created my own cover, but the pictures tell the whole story. There should be absolutely no issues closing that pool. The valves can be closed and water can be vacuumed out first. Then the compressor can be used with the valves open and the return and skimmers plugged. With a short run, the closing should be pretty simple and straight forward.
 
Samt:

Nice job on the pictures.

I created my own cover, but the pictures tell the whole story. There should be absolutely no issues closing that pool. The valves can be closed and water can be vacuumed out first. Then the compressor can be used with the valves open and the return and skimmers plugged. With a short run, the closing should be pretty simple and straight forward.

Yep, I have used that one before, pictures just always seem to explain things pretty quick.
 

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You have the Aqualuminator. It needs to be taken out. I get rubber stopper from PS with fender washers on both ends to seal the opening. Do you have the Aquadoor for your skimmer. I have one and don't need to lower the water level.
 
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