Re Plumb after Heater output

[ausrobbo]

First post - I need some suggestions, hope this isn't too convoluted.
I have plumbing questions, but I'll explain my setup first.


I purchased my home with an existing in-ground pool/spa in Oct 2015.
Pool is plaster, about 23,500 gallons.


It has Pentair pumps, filter, heater and a Polaris blower for the spa.


I had to replace the filter pump in Jan 2016, because the bearings failed.
Home warranty with a new house is a good thing! So I upgraded to an IntelliFlo VS for about $200.
The controller is Polaris EOS unit. The SWG cell has died and is no longer made, so has the Spa remote.
Rather than buy the Comm board for the IntelliFlo, I am replacing the EOS with an Easytouch-8 with IC40.
Home warranty is covering about 1/2 so that makes it a no brainer.


I have to adjust the plumbing to fit the new IC40, and here are my questions:


The suction lines into both pumps are 2.5". The output to Spa and Waterfall are 2.5".
The main filter lines are 2" out of the pump, to the filter and then the heater.
(I can't add pics yet)


Out of the heater in 2" it goes to a 3-way valve, with one side to the Spa in 2.5" and the other side to the Salt cell and pool return in 2".
The valve never completely closes off the spa, so in normal "pool" mode, the return is going to both.
(I can't add pics yet)


The previous owner told me the Heater had parts replaced in the last 18 months due to corrosion.
There is no check valve on the line from heater to cell.
Note how the pool return line is above the rest of the plumbing, I can imagine the SWG may have been draining back into the heater.


I'm guessing the equipment pad is about 6-12" below level of the pool. The return line might be level or slightly above the water line.


Questions:


1. The current return only has the Salt Cell in the pool return, not the Spa. Is that correct?


2. I was planning to completely redo the plumbing after the heater. I was going to go from heater to a check valve, salt cell and then 3-way.
This seems more consistent with pentair recommendations. Is that correct?

3. The mix of 2" and 2.5" in the return lines has me worried.
Will it be ok if I use 2" for all of it till it gets to the spa return line?


4. I see lots of comments about check valves for SWG needing to be chemical safe.
Pentair suggest their Automatic Feeder Check Valve R172288.
But it is 1.5"/2" and seems quite restrictive. Should I use that?

5. The pool return line is about 18" above all the other plumbing.
Do I need to preserve that, or can I bring it down so the spa and pool returns are level?

6. There is a check valve in the spa return line.
I was wondering if this is to prevent the spa draining back into the pool, since the 3-way never seals the pool off.
Should I install a check valve in the spa return line? Spa is about 8-10" above pool level.

7. The return 3-way in pool mode has maybe 15-20% going to spa. That is a good balance for the daily filter run.
When I re-plumb should I do the same, or do I use a bypass line and completely close the valve? I have 2 spare actuators.

8. Every other suction or return line has a ball valve, except the pool return. Should I add one?

9. Any good ideas about how I fit the 3-way between pool and spa returns?
The pipes in the ground are too close to fit a 3-way with simple elbows.
And the blower pipe is sort of in the way. Digging up the return line is not an option.


Sorry for the huge post.

 

[mas985]

Welcome to the forum!

1. It is better to have the SWG before the pool/spa valve so you can use it for both. But for controllers that do not support a pool/spa SWG setting, many times PBs put it after the valve for the pool only. Not ideal but it does mean that you need to use the pool to chlorinate the spa via spillover/bypass mode.

2. What is the check valve for. A SWG does not need it.

3. Why does it have you worried. No issues.

4. Nope. Not needed.

5. Doesn't matter

6. Yes, if you have raised spa, it prevents draining. In full spa mode or pool, the spa should be isolated so another check valve should not be needed.

7. A bypass is optional and just makes it easier to set the bypass level with a separate valve.

8. Only if you think you would use it. Normally you want all returns open.

9. Post a picture.

 

[ausrobbo]

Thanks mas985!

1. Ok, got it. The polaris controller has a lot of options, but not much control of the salt cell. Now that I'm changing over to the Easytouch that will change, so I'll put Salt Cell after heater and before 3-way.

2. I've seen a few posts on TFP as well as the Pentair manual recommend a Check valve to stop highly concentrated chlorine flowing back into heater on pump stop. Don't I need a check valve to protect the heater?

3. Ok, so just do all the plumbing in 2" and then a 2" - 2.5" on the final Spa return line.

4. Same as #2

5. Good, it will be easier if i can make Spa/Pool returns the same level.

6. So I'd need to keep a check valve on the Spa line, since I will probably do a bypass (see #7) so I can do a pure Pool mode.

7. Should I do the bypass in 2" or smaller? I'm not exactly sure how much the 3-way sets to Spa now, maybe 10deg.

8. Got it. Don't think I'll need it unless when I lower the pool return line I get a lot of back flow.

9. Every time I add and attachment or a link to a pic, the site logs me off. Not sure what I need to do???

 

[mas985]

2&4. Only with a tab chlorinator. An SWG shuts off with the pump and so unlike a tab feeder there is no high concentration of chlorine.

3. Either way is fine. It will probably be easier to plumb in the equipment in 2" and then transition to 2.5". Sometimes you can use all 2.5" on the suction side but do it only if it doesn't create plumbing difficulties (i.e. more fittings).

7. I would keep it 2" with a 2-way valve for control.

9. Try this: Posting Photo's Tutorial

Also it is easier to post pictures if you are a supporter: CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!