DIY Indoor & inground pool near Vegas

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Solar heating panels designed for the job allow more water to flow. The poly tubing, even after splitting into 6 parallel loops, will require about 10 gallons per minute to flow through each loop for around 170 feet. So the drawback is that you can't push as much water, and the surface area exposed to the sun is relatively small. If it's 1" poly pipe, 1000 feet has an exposed surface area of under 100 square feet, and if the pool was, say, 400 square feet, then you're under 25% of pool surface area when you'd like to be around 2/3 or more.

By the way, there's still plenty of DIY to do for mounting and plumbing purpose-designed panels, so plenty of opportunity to save some money and do it better than many installers might. Ike mentioned the unnecessary sensor on the return water. The other thing missing is a vacuum relief valve to relieve the suction pressure on the system when it's not running.

I went with a 1/2 HP dedicated pump and it's a simple way to run the system, but there's also every chance you can do it with your pool pump. To get the most from solar, you need to automate it. Controllers are simple, just measuring pool temp and roof temp, so the system runs whenever it's going to achieve heating, up to whatever maximum pool temp you set. The controller will operate either a three-way valve with electric actuator or a dedicated pump. For me, there was little difference in cost between a dedicated pump and a three-way valve with an actuator, so it made sense for me.

This manual is from Australia so it won't match up for you, but it's well written and covers solar heating pretty well.
http://www.ecoonline.com.au/content/manuals/oku_solar_pool_heating_install_manual.pdf
 
Here is a link to my solar heat install / update thread from a few years ago Solar Panel Replacement / Update Your issues are likely to be similar as my pool is inside a concrete block and metal building My not indoor pool at the moment

For my solar heat I use a 2 speed 1.5 HP pump, run it on low for general circulation, but high for solar. I am using an Aquasolar brand solar controller (more electronic design) , but if I had to do it today I would opt for the Pentair Suntouch (more computerized, on screen programing vs moving jumpers)

p.s. note the Suntouch is on the 2nd generation of the product, older ones had smaller more cryptic LCD displays
 
I would attach a bonding wire to the rebar in the deck, yea you will have to chip out a bit. Use a brass boding clamp. I would attach a lug to the stainless skimmer frame. If it extends into the pool with a 9 inches of surface area I would call that the water bond and be done.

Its critical that the water and the deck be bonded. There is just too much electrical equipment nearby to skimp on bonding this pool.
 
Thank you all for the input. I have gone back to the drawing board on the heating setup and will now research your suggestions. I also have a pool electrician coming over tomorrow morning to advise me on what to do for bonding.

Thanks again. I'll keep updating.
 
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Here is how the pool looks today. It's been in full operation for about a month. Everything has worked really well. I've had no problems keeping the chemicals balanced and there is very little evaporation. The kids have been swimming in it almost every day. It is so incredibly refreshing on these hot Vegas summer days.

I am currently working on an underwater platform. I borrowed the idea from Pete Hughes on another pool forum. Here's a link. My pool is a consistent 5 feet deep throughout. No shallow end. I'm the only one that can stand flat footed in the pool and have my head above water. My wife and kids are all treading or floating. I decided to build the platform so the kids would be able to stand and kids/adults could sit on the steps and enjoy the shallow end like a jacuzzi. It's pretty big. I hope it works.


Here's just the first part that is the steps. I set it up so that you can walk right into the pool down the steps.

 
The link goes to where I thought it would. That is a nice set up. What will you be doing to keep it down?

What a nice set up you have there. Let us know what your electric friend has to say about the bonding. I love to learn new things and see different ideas.

:kim:
 
That is going to SO awesome! Talk to me about the whys of the many uprights on the two sides in the front. I KNOW their is a reason and bet it is a good one.

Good hear about the bonding! Sounds like a solid plan.

:kim:
 
The "jail bars" up front are for safety. That is the one side of the platform open to the rest of the pool. I don't want the risk of someone doing a cave dive under the platform and getting stuck. The bars are far enough apart that no hands or feet can get stuck and close enough together that a head won't fit through. I'm putting a couple of swinging gates in the center so I can have access underneath in case of retrieving lost toys or cleaning. That part should be done tomorrow.
 
Just curious, you haven't mentioned water chemistry or testing. You do have a test kit and are maintaining your chlorine levels and pH at safe levels aren't you?
 

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Part of controlling algae is water circulation to keep adequate chlorine bathing new algae cells, and brushing pool surfaces to break the biofilm that forms over algae to protect it from the chlorine. An option might be to lift out the steps when brushing, but I'm also wondering how the steps will be held in place. Glad to hear no one will be entering the structure.
 
Major... Yes, I do have a test kit. I use the Taylor K-2006. I keep the FC level as close to 3 as possible. I've shocked it a couple times right after fill and a kids party. My TA is high (around 200). I assume it's just the inherently hard water we have here. That causes my pH to climb slowly over time. I add muriatic acid about once every 2 weeks to lower pH. I try to keep it 7.6-7.8.


The platform will fit tightly in the smaller part of the L shape of the pool. That way it has a wall on 3 sides and the bars in the front. As far as holding it down goes? There are some challenges to overcome with this thing. My 2 biggest concerns are moving this MONSTROSITY and keeping it clean. Fully assembled it weights ~400 lbs. It's a beast. I will need 2 or 3 friends to help move it. I also might have to install the deck boards after its in the water. They're the heaviest part. If its own weight isn't enough to keep it solidly on the floor, I could build some sinkers made from 3 foot long 4 inch PVC filled with sand. They would be removable. I'm also putting an extra layer of vinyl underneath the legs to prevent any rubbing or scuffing of the liner.

I made those doors in the front of it so that I can get underneath it with a vacuum if needed. I've also had a couple of ambitious ideas if needed.

One idea... I have an old ATV winch that doesn't get used anymore. I thought about rigging up a pulley system where I could winch the platform out of the pool periodically to let it dry and to control any possible algae.

Another idea... I wonder if I could run a branch from my return line over to the platform and tap into it actually making the frame a functional part of my return system. I'd drill a bunch of holes in the pipe in different places so that when the pump is running its forcing water at the floor and away from the platform. I know this idea is a little out there but it's an idea.

Heating just became a new priority. Wife jumped in the pool yesterday and was out within 5 minutes with goosebumps and chattering teeth. Water temp is currently 79. That does get kinda cool when you're inside a building with no sunlight beating down.
 
I like the idea of the "return pipe". That will help keep the water moving for sure!

I have an idea. Take some water from here and here and here..........make sure you know where you got each cup of water. Now go test this water for FC. See how well your system is moving and mixing your water. You can use a skinny PVC pipe to pull water from the bottom of the pool as well if you want to take this a step further.

Yeah I bet heating the water got moved up the ladder after that! Burrrrrrrr

:kim:
 
I remember reading in pool school about CYA levels. Right now that level is zero being indoors. If I do add some conditioner to bring that level up will it just make the water feel a little softer?

Kim, I'm gonna try your suggestion of testing for FC at a different location each time to ensure circulation. I do think that circulation is good right now. When the pump is running I can see eddies and movement in every part of the pool.
 

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