New pool - A few questions

[dd564]

Hi,

I have a 22k gallon vinyl in ground pool with Salt Water Generator.
We just filled the pool a couple days ago.

Did my first chlorine reading yesterday and it was nothing.
Realized I actually need to have the pump running fast enough for it to work.

Set it at 60% (Pentair Intellichlor) to get us started. Took a reading this morning and we are at 1.2 PPM.
I'm at about 8.0 PH and my CYA was too low to get a reading.

With all brand new city water in the pool, what should I be watching for most right now and what's the ideal chlorine level that I should shoot for?

Thanks in advance.

 

[AimeeH]

Hi and welcome to TFP

A good place to start is here. Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

How high your FC needs to be is depend ant on your CYA. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Definitely look into lowering your PH with muratic acid. How are you testing your CYA? Have you added any yet?

We highly reccomend a good test kit Pool School - Test Kits Compared

 

[Jimrahbe]

dd,

Your SWG was designed to keep the chlorine somewhat stable. It was not designed to bring a pool up from zero. Suggest you use "Pool Math" (at top of this page) and figure out how much liquid chlorine/bleach you need to get up to your target level. Once you get to your target level the SWG should be able to keep it there.

Also, keep in mind that both the % of output and pump run time determine the amount of chlorine generated by the SWG. With very low, or no CYA, my guess is that you will have to run your pump 24/7... Suggest you increase your CYA to 77 or 80.

What test kit are you using??

Jim R.

 

[dd564]

Hi,

Thanks for the responses. I've been doing a crash course of pool school even though I was reading weeks in advance of my pool opening.

I have a couple quick questions. I already purchased one of the big recommended kits for testing. Received it a few weeks back. However...

1. I was given a 3-way test. One uses phenol red for EDIT (PH) measurements. Is this generally accurate? (it seemed to match my expensive kit) on my first day of testing. Is this okay for testing? Thought I'd use it since it was in the kit.

2. My CYA is zero. I am adding. Purchased some online but it hasn't arrived yet. I guess this isn't really a question.

3. My total alkalinity is through the roof. Over 300. My initial PH was high, added MA. Brought it down. Of course going back up. Added MA again yesterday and made two aerators for my returns. I have them running during the day.
Yesterday when I added the MA, I had a still pool for a few hours and I poured it in the deep end as some have recommended. I am convinced I'll be aerating until the end of the season. IS this all I can do, or any other recommendations? My pool was filled with tap / city water so I don't know why my TA is so high. The water did sit stagnant and got dirty as they completed the pool before I had it filled.

4. What will happen to my water over winter? Will any levels change from freezing until it thaws in spring? I guess in Minnesota I'm getting worried about doing too much to "right size" everything only to have to start over next spring.

5. I also have OTO test kit for CL. Accurate?

Edit: I did give it some bleach to jump start the CL levels, but they drop quickly with no CYA measurement and the aerating I think.

 

[Mr Bruce]

1. Yes, the red phenol tests in cheaper kits is usually accurate. edit to add: If they use Taylor chems. I've seen an off brand phenol red that was useless.
2. Research the sock method for adding this while you wait.
3. Test your tap water. Also, wipe the bottle tip with a wet cloth between drops. I bet it's lower.
4. Every pool is different. Some people have some chlorine left. Sometimes the CYA is gone, sometimes it's not. If you take care of the equipment you don't have to worry about the water so much, especially once the water is in the 50s.
5. Not really. That is best for "Is there any chlorine at all in the pool". The FAS-DPD test is needed for accuracy.

 

[dd564]

Just tested.

PH is back up to 8.0-8.2.
Added two gallons of MA just now to lower it.
Currently aerating with cover open.

Calcium Hardness 250
TA about 300
My FC is down. It was 3.0 yesterday morning 12 hours after a bleach add, but it's down to 0.5 now.

 

[dd564]

1. Yes, the red phenol tests in cheaper kits is usually accurate. edit to add: If they use Taylor chems. I've seen an off brand phenol red that was useless.
2. Research the sock method for adding this while you wait.
3. Test your tap water. Also, wipe the bottle tip with a wet cloth between drops. I bet it's lower.
4. Every pool is different. Some people have some chlorine left. Sometimes the CYA is gone, sometimes it's not. If you take care of the equipment you don't have to worry about the water so much, especially once the water is in the 50s.
5. Not really. That is best for "Is there any chlorine at all in the pool". The FAS-DPD test is needed for accuracy.

1. Thanks.
2. Already been reading about that.
3. Tap water came back at 325 TA
4. Thanks. I'll add CYA and see what happens.
5. Thanks.

 

[Mr Bruce]

Which "expensive" kit are you using? If the K-2006(c) or TF-100 there is no reason to use a cheaper 3 way kit.

 

[dd564]

Which "expensive" kit are you using? If the K-2006(c) or TF-100 there is no reason to use a cheaper 3 way kit.

Hi, by "expensive", I just meant "more expensive" than the "free" little kit they left with me.

It's the K-2006.

 

[dd564]

Any reason to hold off on adding CYA while I'm trying to lower the TA?
Since CYA works as a buffer, I'm wondering if that would delay the process.

 

[pooldv]

Adding CYA now is a great plan. Here's hpw, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals