Also, try this: Get a small sample and add a drop or two of acid to the sample to see if the sample turns yellow especially where the drop of acid enters the water.
Indoor pool chemical problem
- Thread starter Hopew
- Start date
Okay, when adding 4 ounces of pool water with 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide, I stirred and let sit for a minute and then tested. The color was a pale yellow so showing very little chlorine.
When taking 1 part pool water and adding 4 parts distilled water, I get a brighter yellow but NO orange.
My test kit is showing to arrive here on Friday. I'm in North MS.
I have more hydrogen peroxide and was going to start adding more today if you agreed.
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ps. I do not have any acid at the moment to do the other sample. I can try and get some if needed.
When you did the dilution, is the resulting yellow color within the range of the OTO color comparator? Or is it a stronger yellow (i.e. higher chlorine level than typically measured with OTO)?
You may be able to get a ballpark estimate of your actual chlorine level by seeing how much you have to dilute in order to get a readable value within the OTO test range -- it will be a crude estimate, but could guide the approximate amount of hydrogen peroxide to add (if and when you add more hydrogen peroxide, that is -- please wait for further advice on that question).
You may be able to get a ballpark estimate of your actual chlorine level by seeing how much you have to dilute in order to get a readable value within the OTO test range -- it will be a crude estimate, but could guide the approximate amount of hydrogen peroxide to add (if and when you add more hydrogen peroxide, that is -- please wait for further advice on that question).
The dilution with 1 part pool water and 4 parts distilled water and adding 5 drops of chlorine regiment, I get a bright yellow but it is within the OTO test range it seems. At the top of course but there.
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Of course, keep in mind that I have wasted this pool twice and drained it 2 feet below the skimmer and refilled and still have high levels.
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Of course, keep in mind that I have wasted this pool twice and drained it 2 feet below the skimmer and refilled and still have high levels.
If you still have some of your 1-and-4 mix, take one part of that mix and one part of distilled water. Then test some of that further diluted mixture, and see if it gets you somewhere in the middle of the OTO range (say 2-3 ppm). I've noticed that at the top of the OTO scale, it's difficult to tell if it is a strong yellow versus a somewhat stronger yellow -- the distinctions are easier lower in the range of yellows.
So, for example, if your further diluted mixture measures 2, then your total chlorine is very approximately 20; if it measures around 3, then your total chlorine is very approximately 30.
Your current dilution (1-and-4) means you have a one in five part of your original pool water; if you follow my suggestion of cutting it in half again with distilled water, you would be at one in ten.
All of this is quite approximate, just to get a ballpark idea of how much more hydrogen peroxide you may need.
So, for example, if your further diluted mixture measures 2, then your total chlorine is very approximately 20; if it measures around 3, then your total chlorine is very approximately 30.
Your current dilution (1-and-4) means you have a one in five part of your original pool water; if you follow my suggestion of cutting it in half again with distilled water, you would be at one in ten.
All of this is quite approximate, just to get a ballpark idea of how much more hydrogen peroxide you may need.
Okay, I tested the further diluted mixture and it is still bright yellow, I would say it is approximately 20 or 20ish. I did put 2 more gallons of hydrogen peroxide (8 quarts). I just tested the pool water again with the OTO kit and my PH is yellow but Chlorine is still orange but not as florescent looking this time.
I read that chlorine levels are hard to drop using hydrogen peroxide if the PH is low, is this correct?
Sorry about the delay responding today, but I have been on the road since 10 am and just made it back home
We just have a lot of uncertainty here, with limited test results.
Do you know if your local pool store sells sodium thiosulfate based chlorine remover (looks like rock salt)? If so I would try that, just remember a little goes a long way (1 qt bottle would likely be more than you need) if not you might try more Hydrogen Peroxide since it seems to have worked on the small scale test sample.
We just have a lot of uncertainty here, with limited test results.
Do you know if your local pool store sells sodium thiosulfate based chlorine remover (looks like rock salt)? If so I would try that, just remember a little goes a long way (1 qt bottle would likely be more than you need) if not you might try more Hydrogen Peroxide since it seems to have worked on the small scale test sample.
Try adding the drops of acid to a sample. If the sample turns yellow, that would indicate that you might be dealing with bromine.
Do you know how old the pool is?
Do you know how old all of the equipment is?
Is the salt system original to the pool or was it added recently?
Try one part pool water to 29 parts distilled water and then test that and multiply by 30.
Do you know how old the pool is?
Do you know how old all of the equipment is?
Is the salt system original to the pool or was it added recently?
Try one part pool water to 29 parts distilled water and then test that and multiply by 30.
I will go to the local pool store tomorrow, she did say she would have some chlorine stabilizer that would work. I will check to make sure it is sodium thiosulfate. I will post the results from their test tomorrow as well.
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I will get some acid. The pool is 5 years old and the equipment is 5 years old. The salt system was original to the pool and I turned it off when I took ownership a month ago.
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I will get some acid. The pool is 5 years old and the equipment is 5 years old. The salt system was original to the pool and I turned it off when I took ownership a month ago.
You do NOT want Stabilizer, you want Chlorine Remover, in particular you want one where the active ingredient is sodium thiosulfate Adding more stabilizer will possibly make your problems worse, we will know better once we get reliable test results.
Don’t buy acid just for the test. You’ll end up with a bottle of acid that you will probably never use.
If the salt system is original to the pool, that makes bromine less likely.
When you get your test kit, get a 25 ml sample and add 10 drops of R-0009 ( sulfuric acid).
That will be a good enough test. If the sample turns yellow, it’s likely bromine. If it stays colorless, it’s probably not bromine.
If the salt system is original to the pool, that makes bromine less likely.
When you get your test kit, get a 25 ml sample and add 10 drops of R-0009 ( sulfuric acid).
That will be a good enough test. If the sample turns yellow, it’s likely bromine. If it stays colorless, it’s probably not bromine.
Okay, new analysis from the pool store:
FC 11.04 ppm
TC 11.04ppm
CC 0ppm
pH 6.4
Hardness 139 ppm
Alkalinity 4ppm
Cyanuric Acid 4ppm
Copper 0.2ppm
Iron 0.6ppm
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I have hydrogen peroxide or I have Chlor Out which contains Sodium Thiosulfate. I can use either or both. Suggestions?
FC 11.04 ppm
TC 11.04ppm
CC 0ppm
pH 6.4
Hardness 139 ppm
Alkalinity 4ppm
Cyanuric Acid 4ppm
Copper 0.2ppm
Iron 0.6ppm
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I have hydrogen peroxide or I have Chlor Out which contains Sodium Thiosulfate. I can use either or both. Suggestions?
Looks like you are making progress on the chlorine, so the hydrogen peroxide apparently helped. Please wait for advice from Isaac or James before proceeding with the next addition, though.
I am nervous about that very low alkalinity number; perhaps it is time to address that soon, as it would be good to get your pH in line pretty soon (pH is not stable when alkalinity is near zero).
Another day until you have your own test kit, if I recall?
I am nervous about that very low alkalinity number; perhaps it is time to address that soon, as it would be good to get your pH in line pretty soon (pH is not stable when alkalinity is near zero).
Another day until you have your own test kit, if I recall?
Okay, I will wait to hear from Isaac. Thanks!
I'm not letting anyone swim in it until we get this cleared up better.
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Yes, the TAylor test kit is showing to arrive tomorrow.
I'm not letting anyone swim in it until we get this cleared up better.
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Yes, the TAylor test kit is showing to arrive tomorrow.
I would suggest trying some of the sodium thiosulfate, I would start with about 16 ounces and retest after about half an hour with circulation going assuming your OTO test is still off the top of the scale and orange. Repeat if it makes progress on color
Ike
p.s. my internet if flaky here today so may be slow responding
Ike
p.s. my internet if flaky here today so may be slow responding
I put 16 ounces and sprinkled it along the edges of the pool. I have waited now for about 2 hours and tested using the OTO and finally, I do not see orange. I see bright yellow only. Maybe I shouldn't add any more until we can get an accurate chlorine level. I do have some PH up, should that be added?
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and actually, i just tracked my kit and it is showing to arrive here today at some point..my UPS usually runs around 4ish.
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and actually, i just tracked my kit and it is showing to arrive here today at some point..my UPS usually runs around 4ish.
We will be curious what your test kit shows!
I was looking back at page 1 of your thread, and those 5 gallons (!) of acid that the pool store had you add would perhaps account for low TA (alkalinity) as well as very low pH. If I set PoolMath to 35000 gallons (approximating the size of your pool), and check at the bottom of PoolMath for the effects of adding that much muriatic acid, it says it would lower pH by over 4 points, and lower TA by 71. Now, PoolMath is not all that accurate when you get into extreme pH numbers (the note right under the Effects of Adding Chemicals section points that out), but it still tends to explain why you may have very low TA and pH at the moment.
Could you double check what the active chemical is in the pH up product that you have on hand -- so we know what there is to work with when it comes time to adjust TA and pH? If your TA is indeed as low as the pool store test indicates, you will want to increase alkalinity also, not just focus on pH.
I was looking back at page 1 of your thread, and those 5 gallons (!) of acid that the pool store had you add would perhaps account for low TA (alkalinity) as well as very low pH. If I set PoolMath to 35000 gallons (approximating the size of your pool), and check at the bottom of PoolMath for the effects of adding that much muriatic acid, it says it would lower pH by over 4 points, and lower TA by 71. Now, PoolMath is not all that accurate when you get into extreme pH numbers (the note right under the Effects of Adding Chemicals section points that out), but it still tends to explain why you may have very low TA and pH at the moment.
Could you double check what the active chemical is in the pH up product that you have on hand -- so we know what there is to work with when it comes time to adjust TA and pH? If your TA is indeed as low as the pool store test indicates, you will want to increase alkalinity also, not just focus on pH.
The pH Up active chemical is sodium Carbonate 100%, I also have lots of baking soda if that will work.
You do not want to use baking soda yet, that will raise TA a lot and pH a little, I would suggest waiting and adjusting TA last, it is easy to raise and very hard to lower, so should be approached very carefully, and you probably want a lower TA than generally suggested here for outdoor pools.
p.s. do you have a current pH reading?
waiting on your better test kit numbers
p.s. do you have a current pH reading?
waiting on your better test kit numbers