Indoor pool chemical problem
- Thread starter Hopew
- Start date
That sounds like a good plan if the pool store numbers were right with an FC of 18, it will take probably all of that hydrogen peroxide to get you down to levels that show on the chart for the OTO test +/- half a gallon or so.
Okay, I will put all 4 and check it and maybe get another reading from the pool store until I purchase the new kit. I will update. Thanks!
Just remember it is usually better to under shoot than to overshoot when making these sorts of adjustments
After 4 gallons of hydrogen peroxide, my PH color is yellow and my chlorine color is still bright orange. I went and got the analysis from the store as well:
Free Chlorine 17.36ppm
Total Chlorine 17.36ppm
Combined Chlorine 0 ppm
PH 6.9
Hardness 138ppm
Alkalinity 0 ppm
Cyanuric Acid 3ppm
Copper 0.2ppm
Iron 0.3ppm
Free Chlorine 17.36ppm
Total Chlorine 17.36ppm
Combined Chlorine 0 ppm
PH 6.9
Hardness 138ppm
Alkalinity 0 ppm
Cyanuric Acid 3ppm
Copper 0.2ppm
Iron 0.3ppm
Ok, something is wrong here
There are only a handful of possibilities:
1, The Hydrogen Peroxide was really really old (you might want to check for expiration dates on those bottles)
2, You still have something adding Chlorine to your pool, if it is not manual addition , maybe your SWG is not really turned off
3, Your FC was WAY higher than 18 to start with and the Pool Store testing is way off. Has the color changed at all on the OTO chlorine test? Here is a link to the extended OTO colors and approximate FC they relate to Extended OTO color comparator?
Ike
p.s. do you know how the pool store is testing, drop based kit, color matching test strips, other?
There are only a handful of possibilities:
1, The Hydrogen Peroxide was really really old (you might want to check for expiration dates on those bottles)
2, You still have something adding Chlorine to your pool, if it is not manual addition , maybe your SWG is not really turned off
3, Your FC was WAY higher than 18 to start with and the Pool Store testing is way off. Has the color changed at all on the OTO chlorine test? Here is a link to the extended OTO colors and approximate FC they relate to Extended OTO color comparator?
Ike
p.s. do you know how the pool store is testing, drop based kit, color matching test strips, other?
It also looks like the pH changed after the second half of the hydrogen peroxide additions? At least the OP describes a change from "purple" to "yellow" (on test strips, I assume?). Pool store test also shows low pH on most recent results. Does a pH drop make any sense?
There is something not right with this testing. Not only should 4 gallons have lowered your FC by quite a bit more, I would think you would also have some CC's from it.
Also, if your TA is really zero, your pH would be closer to 4 or 5.
6.8 is the bottom of the pH scale. If that TA result is even close to accurate you need to address your pH right away. Your pH may have crashed and now you have a big tub of very acidic water.
Have you ordered a proper test kit yet?
HopeW.......
First off.....WELCOME TO TFP! I hope you find a new home here!!
I saw a few posts back you were concerned about how easy were they to use? These kits really are a snap once you get the hang of them. They will greatly simplify your life by giving you exact results rather than the "run-a-round" results that you are getting from the Pool Store. To see the directions for the TF-100 see their YouTube Channel as it gives directions for each test you will need to preform.
First off.....WELCOME TO TFP! I hope you find a new home here!!
I saw a few posts back you were concerned about how easy were they to use? These kits really are a snap once you get the hang of them. They will greatly simplify your life by giving you exact results rather than the "run-a-round" results that you are getting from the Pool Store. To see the directions for the TF-100 see their YouTube Channel as it gives directions for each test you will need to preform.
Just making sure, is PH yellow (was purple before) and chlorine orange (bright yellow with orange specks before) or is PH orange and chlorine yellow? Also when testing chlorine were are usually testing and talking Free Chlorine which we abbreviate to FC. That way more specific, but really easier to type.
- spin lab disc
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My husband is getting the test kit ordered. The PH was originally high and we used the acid to lower it and it dropped so it did drop some due to that. I do have some PH up I could use.?
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PH on my test rack is showing purple now (purple before) and the chlorine is showing orange (yellow with orange specks before)
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So, maybe I need to add more hydrogen peroxide??
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So, yes earlier I said PH was yellow and it was purple. MY mistake!!!
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Another thing, with the OTO test, I am filling the tubes up with water and putting 4 drops of each in the tube rack.
Going from yellow (with orange specks, which is sort of weird...) to orange on the OTO test would tend to indicate that chlorine levels have gone up, which seems unlikely. If JoyfulNoise sees this thread, perhaps he will comment on possible underlying chemistry issues...
OTO tests that I'm familiar with ask for 5 drops of the reagent (4 is OK on the pH, but not on the chlorine test).
If I were you I'd be inclined to run a sanity check, if you have any of your hydrogen peroxide left -- take a cup of pool water, put a little h2o2 in, and then run OTO chlorine test to see if anything happens to the color indicating reduction in chlorine level.
All of this weirdness helps illustrate how important it is to have a reliable test kit, as we are all sort of taking stabs in the dark right now, based on the available test information.
With regard to pH result, are you seeing purple on a test strip, or on a drop test (usually part of a test block with the OTO chlorine test)?
OTO tests that I'm familiar with ask for 5 drops of the reagent (4 is OK on the pH, but not on the chlorine test).
If I were you I'd be inclined to run a sanity check, if you have any of your hydrogen peroxide left -- take a cup of pool water, put a little h2o2 in, and then run OTO chlorine test to see if anything happens to the color indicating reduction in chlorine level.
All of this weirdness helps illustrate how important it is to have a reliable test kit, as we are all sort of taking stabs in the dark right now, based on the available test information.
With regard to pH result, are you seeing purple on a test strip, or on a drop test (usually part of a test block with the OTO chlorine test)?
I just now did the OTO again and the PH is a brown/yellow color and the chlorine tube is orange!
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I will do the sanity check right now. I was seeing purple on the drop test on the OTO test but now the PH one is a brown/yellow but the Chlorine is still orange.
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I will do the sanity check right now. I was seeing purple on the drop test on the OTO test but now the PH one is a brown/yellow but the Chlorine is still orange.
Don't trust a purple pH with high chlorine. High chlorine turns the ph test purple and therefore not accurate.
Hydrogen peroxide can work if it's all chlorine. If there is bromine in the water, you're going to need thiosulfate.
At this point, you really need the fasdpd test for chlorine.
What is the TA (Total Alkalinity)?
Hydrogen peroxide can work if it's all chlorine. If there is bromine in the water, you're going to need thiosulfate.
At this point, you really need the fasdpd test for chlorine.
What is the TA (Total Alkalinity)?
James W. Thanks for that thought, it never occurred to me that someone might have added Bromine to a pool that was running on an SWG, although I guess anything is possible.
The Alkalinity (w/ stabilizer correction) is 0ppm
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Should I add more hydrogen peroxide?
Have you ordered a test kit with an FAS/DPD chlorine test yet? That will test FC up to 50 ppm and then you can stop guessing about the chlorine level.
The OTO test going from yellow to orange means that the chlorine level has gone up. So, either the SWG is still on, there are some pucks in the pool or a dispenser or someone is adding chlorine.
Add baking soda to raise your TA to 50 ppm. Use PoolMath, link above, to calculate the dose. More here on adding baking soda to your pool, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Don't do anything to adjust the PH, the PH test is not valid when FC is above 10 ppm.
The OTO test going from yellow to orange means that the chlorine level has gone up. So, either the SWG is still on, there are some pucks in the pool or a dispenser or someone is adding chlorine.
Add baking soda to raise your TA to 50 ppm. Use PoolMath, link above, to calculate the dose. More here on adding baking soda to your pool, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Don't do anything to adjust the PH, the PH test is not valid when FC is above 10 ppm.
One good thing is the water is sparkling clear. 
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I have ordered the test kit, I do not have it yet. I know that the water dries skin out, burns eyes, fades swim suits. The SWG is not still on for sure and no one is adding chlorine. I just had the filter cleaned and new sand put in in case there were pucks left somewhere. Everything has been checked. Will the TA adjust better once the FC is stable?
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I have ordered the test kit, I do not have it yet. I know that the water dries skin out, burns eyes, fades swim suits. The SWG is not still on for sure and no one is adding chlorine. I just had the filter cleaned and new sand put in in case there were pucks left somewhere. Everything has been checked. Will the TA adjust better once the FC is stable?
Do you know if bromine was ever used in the pool?
You might need to get some thiosulfate.
Try this: Mix1 part pool water with 4 parts distilled water and then test that for chlorine.
You might need to get some thiosulfate.
Try this: Mix1 part pool water with 4 parts distilled water and then test that for chlorine.
Ok I think I see our problem here, or at least part of it the Spinlab will only read FC up to 15 ppm WaterLink Spin Lab - 3576 - Pool and Spa - LaMotte so the pool store test is likely at the limit of there test and off the scale high. Your FC may be much higher than we thought, but before trying to add more hydrogen peroxide, lets do an experiment, take a sample (4 to 8 ounces) and add a few drops hydrogen peroxide to it, stir let sit for a few minutes then test it. You should see low chlorine levels if any.
Ike
ps
James W. Test is another good one to try.
p.s. I have been doing some reading online, and it seems that at pH levels below 7.0 the reaction rate of hydrogen peroxide and chlorine is greatly slowed. I have not found anything that defines how much below 7.0 this happens at or by how much.
Ike
ps
James W. Test is another good one to try.
p.s. I have been doing some reading online, and it seems that at pH levels below 7.0 the reaction rate of hydrogen peroxide and chlorine is greatly slowed. I have not found anything that defines how much below 7.0 this happens at or by how much.