Wrong and erratic reading on AquaRite Display

[elgaucho]

We set up the OnComand System and AquaRite Clorinator on February 2013 on an in ground 20000 Gl. pool, since then already the variable speed pump was replaced about 2 years ago and the AquaRite PCB 6-month after both under guaranty.
I do have a LaMotte 2056 ColorQ that I have been using for about 2 years and also periodically, when in any doubt, I take a water sample to the local pool supply store, both readings were always equal some and very close others.
At the beginning of the 2016 season I noticed some discrepancies with our readings and after taking a sample to the pool store I found out that both tests indicate that the salt level was too high 4100, 3900; and our display reading was 2400;
I was advised by the pool supply store to replace with fresh water about 2’ of water, by the way our pool holds 20000 gallons, after doing that we have 3600/3650, on our reading and pool store.
After reading the forums I feel the need to recalibrate the unit to correct the 2400 wrong reading and it was impossible the digital display is acting up again, it was showing very erratic readings constantly changing, when pressing the diagnostic button, it does not make changes and most of the time remains on 80 that I assume is the temperature.
Is possible that the PCB or Display is bad again and not responding or the cell is failing and cause those problems?

Thanks for your help

 

[mas985]

Welcome to the forum.

In diagnostic mode, the readings can change fairly quickly because those are instantaneous values. It might help to understand how much they are changing and how quickly. Is it when the chlorinator first turns on because that is normal.

 

[elgaucho]

Well actually it changes constantly or on the other hand it’s steady on what I think is the temperature says 80, even when pressing the diagnostic bottom to calibrate it doesn’t respond, remains steady. I try turning it off and on and I never get to see the level of salt again, except when it goes erratic and only for a fraction of a second it shows 2400.
Now it’s running and the display shows 80, the check salt light if flashing and both the power and generating lights are steady on.

 

[mas985]

It could be the board but maybe the cell too. I would have the cell tested to see if it is still good. If that is ok, then it must be the board. The Aquarite has a thermal limiter that has been known to fail if current gets too high with a high salt level.

 

[elgaucho]

It could be the board but maybe the cell too. I would have the cell tested to see if it is still good. If that is ok, then it must be the board. The Aquarite has a thermal limiter that has been known to fail if current gets too high with a high salt level.

I’m taking the cell tomorrow to see if working as it should, I’ll post the results of the test and go from there replacing parts.

Hayward was recommended to us, as the most reliable but as I said before we already replaced almost half of the system installed less than 4 years ago and now is acting up again, is normal that it doesn’t last? should I get something different and compatible with the rest or I it was just bad luck? and is anything better or more reliable to replace those parts with?

 

[mas985]

Mine (Hayward AquaLogic) has been running 10 years now without incident. But I keep my salt level at the lower end of the range to keep the amps down within the unit. I think that is key for all SWGs. The higher the current within the controller, the more likely something will fail.

 

[elgaucho]

mas985 thanks for your response, as I said I’ll take today the cell to the pool store to be checked. But yesterday I removed it to inspect and clean if it was necessary, actually it was fairly clean since we inspected at the beginning of the season, but when I installed back the “check salt” flashing light was off, only the power and generating remain steady on. The display only reads 79, I assume is the temperature, and I was unable to change the reading with the diagnostic bottom;
Is this an indication that we may have a faulty cell, display or PCB?
You mention AquaLogic ours is AquaRite, are they the same just a different name? or there is any advantage of one over the other, I’m asking because if I have to replace the PCB again I may opt for replace the entire unit if it’s compatible and more reliable.
Thanks

 

[mas985]

You mention AquaLogic ours is AquaRite, are they the same just a different name?

They are more or less the same. They use the same cell but the main board is slightly different although the cell electronics is basically the same. Different software features too.

Anyway you can video the display? I am just curious what you are actually seeing.

 

[elgaucho]

No problem, I can send a picture of the unit, I just came back and the cell PASS, I installed and the display 82; power and generating lights on steady pressing diagnostic don’t show any changes.

 

[elgaucho]

Here are a couple of pics of the AquaRite display as you can see in looks like is the temperature 83 an generating then it changes to 27.8, shows the check salt light flashing, but not always, and always generating, the salt is actually kind of high 3500. I got the cell checked and it passed. Pressing the diagnostic bottom doesn’t change nothing the remains on whatever is showing.
If you want another detail please let me know I really appreciate all the help I can get, thanks

 

[mas985]

I think you are looking at different values in the display. When you press the diagnostics it cycles through the various values. The manual has a description of each of the readouts depending on the number of times the button is pressed. This may help too:

AquaRite Settings and Frequently Asked Questions - YouTube

Also, I would reset the T-Cell setting for the size of cell you currently have just in case it got reset somehow.

 

[elgaucho]

As I said before I can’t control the display, that was the first thing that I was trying to do because of the false salt level. Pressing the diagnostic bottom doesn’t change the display, those readings just come up and most of the time 83 or something very close to the water temperature reading on the OnComand unit.
And sometimes the reading is very erratic changing fast through all the options and as it passes by the salt reading still shows 2400, and also indicates the cell as t-15 but stops on those numbers that are on the pictures I send.

 

[JamesW]

Sometimes the front cover plate does not line up correctly with the display board. If the little hole that the diagnostics button goes through does not line up correctly, the button might not work or the cover can press the button.

Try removing the front metal cover and push the diagnostics button without the cover in the way. If that does not help, try removing and reinstalling the display board. If that doesn't work, you probably need a new display board.

How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube

Hayward GLX‑PCB‑DSP Aqua Rite Display.

 

[elgaucho]

I also thought about that and remove the plate, we did with no luck, it doesn’t change and if it does is at its on pleasure, very erratic, in this pics you’ll see that it shows t 15 and now instead 2400 it reads 2500, nothing extraordinary but it’s a change

 

[JamesW]

Try reinstalling the display board. Sometimes the pins from the back board do not make good contact with with the holes in the display board. Turn off power first.

 

[Hayward Pool]

I would love to help but have questions that I need answered when in front of the board. If you would private message your phone number I will post what we discover after taking you through troubleshooting.

 

[elgaucho]

Sometimes the front cover plate does not line up correctly with the display board. If the little hole that the diagnostics button goes through does not line up correctly, the button might not work or the cover can press the button.

Try removing the front metal cover and push the diagnostics button without the cover in the way. If that does not help, try removing and reinstalling the display board. If that doesn't work, you probably need a new display board.

How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube

Hayward GLX‑PCB‑DSP Aqua Rite Display.

Well after receiving your message I did it, I pulled it out and reinstall the display and nothing happens but since my friend has the same unit we decided to swap displays and as we suspect his was responding in my set up and mine was acting up on his.

I went on and bought a new display replaced and now we begin according with the comments found on the forums I make sure that it was set for my T-15 cell and start with the set up.

It is responding now to the pressing of the diagnostic bottom but is getting 2200 on the instant salt reading and my tester reads high at 3600, (Note: I didn’t take a water sample to the pools store yet) the test cell and check salt lights are now on and the generating one is off, if I press the diagnostic bottom 5 times I get -0; if I press and hold the bottom the check cell light don’t go off, by the way the cell was checked last week and it passed.

Means the display is responding to direction but the reading is still erratic which was the problem at the beginning of this ordeal.

Thank for all the help

 

[elgaucho]

After trying and failing almost everything I change the electronic display that was erratic and unresponsive finding out that it was only one of the problems.
I got in touch with John, from Hayward and he advised to replace the cell and that was it, an exhausted cell.
Even though our cell was revised, passed the test and working as needed, according to the pool supply store, but it was actually a bad cell. John was right, we replace the cell and our problem is finally solved.
Thanks John, thanks to you the nightmare is over.