High Chlorine

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J

josephny

0
Jun 4, 2009
106
Sullivan County, NY
Hi,

I've been opening my pool for the past month.

Everything appears fine (keeping PH between 7.2 and 7.8; stabilized somewhere between 50 & 100).

When I opened it (24' round, 52" high), I put 3 bags of Blue Wave Chlor-Burst (sodium dicholoro-s-triazinetrione duhydrate).

It's been almost a month and my chlorine levels won't come down.

I have a chemical-in-tubes test as well as a couple of brands of strips. The chemicals-in-tube test shows a shade of yellow that's off the chart (i.e., above 3ppm). Waiting 5 minutes does not change the color, indicating the same level of free and total chlorine.

I thought maybe I should start chlorinating it so a couple of weeks ago I put in my 3" trichlor tablets. That hasn't changed the readings.

Otherwise, the pool is clear and feels fine (no smell, no visible algae, etc.).

I know I messed it up, but not sure how -- or, more importantly, how to fix it.

I'd sure appreciate some help.

Thank you,

Joseph
 
You need a good quality test kit for starters. I'm just as confused as you are just by reading your post. :?

You state your stabilizer at 50-100. Which one is it? Maybe you are where you need to be, maybe you're off the charts! Either way, pucks are gonna keep adding CYA and if you feel over your head now, just wait! :shock: I'd highly suggest you stop using them and implement the BBB which you can learn about in Pool School.

With a good quality test kit, you would know what your numbers are specifically instead of saying pH is between 7.2 and 7.8. Sorry but that's not an adequate answer for us to help you. Please click on the link in my siggy for a TF-100 test kit and order it. I know it looks like a lot of money but don't you think you deserve piece of mind knowing you're getting accurate results? It's the best investment you can give your pool.

While you're at it, check out pool school! Read it! Learn it! Breathe it! Your pool will thank you and glisten like no ones business! :mrgreen:

Welcome to TFP!
 
Hi there and Welcome to TFP! :wave:

If you would please post a full set of test results, we can help advise you better. Numbers, not "fine" or "off the chart" :mrgreen: .

FC
CC
PH
TA
CYA
CH

Also, if you could update your profile to include your pool info/equipment in your signature. Go to User Control Panel, then Profile, then Edit Signature.

Your water may be fine.... But without test results....We can't really offer proper advice, only guesses.

Trichlor pucks add chlorine. So if you were at shock level, and nothing causes the chlorine to lower dramatically, and you are constantly adding it via pucks, no reason for it to drop....I'm guessing it is dropping, but your kit only tests up to 5ppm for FC, right?

I'd advise to order the recommended test kit, and take total control of your pool. :wink:

Forget everything you've ever been told about "proper" FC levels....what your correct FC should be is entirely dependent on what your CYA level actually is. Refer to the chart in my sig. There is a HUGE difference between 50 and 100 for CYA.

Now off to Pool School for you! :goodjob:
 
Yep, both me and my post are confused/confusing. Sorry about that.

What I meant about the PH is that over the past month the PH never dropped below 7.2 or rose above 7.8 -- I was able to maintain it in that level with PH+/-

The chemical-tube test I have doesn't test for stabilizer, so I use the stick test and the color matching has one shade for 50 and one for 100 and the stick color is somewhere in between.

I went to the site to order the test and would like to order it for overnight delivery but don't see such an option. Possible?

Makes perfect sense that accurate testing is the first step.

Thank you so much!
 
Just went out back with the HTH 6-way test strips:

CYA falls clearly in the shade box that reads "30-50"

Free chlorine is closest to 4

PH 7.5

Total hardness 0

Alkalinity halfway between 80 and 120

I wish I discovered this site and forum and the better test kit sooner!
 
Otherwise, the pool is clear and feels fine (no smell, no visible algae, etc.).

I know I messed it up, but not sure how -- or, more importantly, how to fix it.
Click to expand...

Hey, Joseph,

Welcome to the forum. :-D

I doubt very much you messed up badly at all. That your water is clear is probably the best indicator.

Don't worry about fixing it. the FC will come down on it's own and, when you get your test kit, you'll be able to pinpoint much more accurate numbers.

The wide results in the test strips are the problem with them. Generally, they are quite unreliable and won't allow you to manage your pool properly. You'll have that problem solved soon.
 
Hi Joseph,

Please add your pool and equipment specs in your sig. You do that via the User Control Panel, upper left corner. Select Profile, then Edit Sig. This is helpful when members are responding to your posts and you don't have to keep adding the info each time you post.

Once you get your test kit, which, btw will put you in total control of your pool :wink: , you can then post your full set of #'s and then see where you are.

Welcome to the forum :wave:
 

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Your kit should ship out tomorrow since you just ordered it!

I'm happy to see you did so! 8) You won't regret it and you'll find it is very easy to perform the test and get an accurate reading every single time!

As soon as you get it, post your numbers and we will help you through it! Besides, mostly everything is fixable if you screwed up too bad! :mrgreen:

Have you read up on the BBB yet? Your main pool supplies will be Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda. :wink:
 
I've been reading up in Pool School.

Sure does turn the common advice upside down.

My situation is that I'm only at the pool on weekends.

Last 2 seasons I balanced PH and alkalinity on weekends, cleaned the filter and vaccuumed then too. I put 3 trichlor tablets in the 2 floating chlorinators also once/week.

It worked -- pool was always good.

Will I be able to be so absent using BBB?
 
There are a few ways to make this work. You could get a SWG; requires adding a ton of salt and doing some replumbing. You could get a Liquidator or equivalent; requires some replumbing. Or you could stick with the tabs; this should be augmented by algaecide (polyquat 60) or periodic drain/refill because of the continued addition of CYA.
--paulr
 
Yes, you can continue with your routine, and you'll be in a better position because you will now have the knowledge to fix any problem that might arise. Plus you'll have us if you aren't sure what to do!

Pucks lower PH, so as long as you keep that in check and keep your TA at about 120, you will be fine. They also raise CYA so you'll need the occasional water replacement to keep that in range too.

Provided you keep the FC at the appropriate levels for your CYA, you shouldn't have many problems arise, certainly nothing that can't be handled by a little research on the forum. :goodjob:
 
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