18 x 33 Above Ground Sinking Posts

[Konos]

Hi guys,

Looking for advice on how to lift my sinking posts. We're coming close to the end of our season up here (Northern Ontario - Canada) and I'd like to fix this once the pool is drained for the winter. The type of pool is Atlantic - its an 18x33' I'm guessing I need to dig down to the bottom of the post and jack it but I'm thinking I can't do it the same way the Intex guys can because I doubt the coping would have the same kind of strength that those pools do? My current plan is to dig down UNDER the buttress and jack from there. Still not exactly sure how I can be jacking it while also back-filling it or putting an additional patio stone underneath with the jack support a post. Any thoughts?

Sorry for the sideways pics - not sure why they rotate on upload.

 

[woodyp]

I wouldn't "jack" anything with it filled.

 

[Konos]

Haha, no certainly wasn't going to do that. We're getting into early fall up here so my thinking is after I drain it for the season I'll make my adjustments there when there's only a couple inches of water in the bottom.

 

[Konos]

Does anyone have experience doing this with my type of pool posts?

 

[NoTime]

Based on my basic knowledge from moving a(standard, non-Intex) in-ground pool .. You are not just dealing with posts, but the entire pool wall. My pool has a bottom channel that locks in with the "post" bottom. They are identical parts to the top of the pool wall.

I didn't think my posts looked super strong, (I'm sure I could bend them easier than my previous Intex pool posts) they seem like they help keep the walls from bowing out, and provide a more horizontal ledge for the final pool cap.

I'd think you need to approach it more like lifting 4+ posts and wall at the same time with 1 board.

 

[NoTime]

If you move the wall up, what does that do to the liner? Wouldn't the liner have to stretch?

I have a beaded liner, the bead sits in a plastic channel. (Inside the pool, under the rail) That plastic channel isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the water within the liner up. I think I would break that channel if I hung on it (with no water in the pool).

I think water holds the water up. In doing so, the water pushes out. The wall holds the water in. it's the friction between the liner and the wall that holds the liner in place. The liner is mostly there for a waterproof seal inside the wall.

It's kinda amazing how it all works together to make a strong, solid pool.

 

[Casey]

You can't just move that post. It's way to heavy. You're going to have to drain the pool and pull the liner back, place 12x12 blocks under the post and level and relevel til it's level.

 

[Konos]

You can't just move that post. It's way to heavy. You're going to have to drain the pool and pull the liner back, place 12x12 blocks under the post and level and relevel til it's level.

Casey - with the pool empty would it not be enough to dig under each buttress individually and raise it a couple of inches? I'd like to avoid having to completely disassembly the liner if at all possible but I admit I'm struggling with how I can jack the buttress in a manner that will allow me to put something underneath it without interfering with the jack.

- - - Updated - - -

Based on my basic knowledge from moving a(standard, non-Intex) in-ground pool .. You are not just dealing with posts, but the entire pool wall. My pool has a bottom channel that locks in with the "post" bottom. They are identical parts to the top of the pool wall.

I didn't think my posts looked super strong, (I'm sure I could bend them easier than my previous Intex pool posts) they seem like they help keep the walls from bowing out, and provide a more horizontal ledge for the final pool cap.

I'd think you need to approach it more like lifting 4+ posts and wall at the same time with 1 board.

I've thought about this as well but again I can't imagine how I can do this given we're probably talking about close to 20 feet between all 3 side posts. I would somehow need to get a long board under all 3 at the same time and still be able to jack and slide something underneath. That's why I was hoping to do one at a time - I don't believe they are out that much - 2 inches tops I believe I'll try and measure it tonight.

 

[Casey]

You're going to need to pull the liner back. You run the risk of puncturing 8t if you do not n it will be easier to work on with it pulled back.