CC still high

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cindyhmorris

0
Aug 14, 2016
23
Uvalda, GA
Here are my numbers from this morning:
PH 7.5
FC 6.0
CC 6.0
CH 350
TA 150
CYA 70
Salt 3000

I'm struggling to get the CC down. I drained a foot of water from the pool and replaced the water with tap water and then I SLAMed the pool for 5 days straight using 8.25% liquid bleach by raising the FC to over 30 twice daily and brushing twice daily. I added DE to the sand filter too. YES, I did not SLAM on Friday. Unfortunately that thing that pays the bills, work, prohibited any pool time. Yesterday, the hubby swam to the bottom. The water was fine and did not burn his eyes until he got about a hand's width from the bottom right over the main drain. It seems that whatever is lurking in the pool is just in the very bottom. Any ideas? Is CC heavier? The pool water is crystal clear. However, there is a sand like substance on the bottom of the deep end. It's very dry here and I did cut grass yesterday, so I suspect some is sand.

Here's my plan:
1. Vacuum on waste today to get all residue off bottom.
2. Refill with tap water. BTW- My tap has CH in it too. CH of tap is 200.
3. Add 2 bags of salt.
4. Retest and SLAM again.
 
Yes, something doesn't sound right. A CC of 6ppm would cause your water to smell really bad. Also, that swim test is not accurate at all. CCs will be homogeneously distributed throughout the volume of the pool water. It's far more likely that it just requires a little bit of time for the burning sensation to start than having anything to do with depth.

You need to SLAM your pool until the CCs are less than 0.5ppm.
 
10 ML of pool water. Add scoop of powder. Swirl until dissolved. Add 0871. Count drops. Swirling after each one. Divide by 2 to get FC. Add 5 drops 0003. Add 0871 again. Swirl after each drop. Count drops. Divide by 2 to get CC. It doesn't smell like chlorine or taste like chlorine at all.He swam in the pool for several hours. No Burning except at bottom...
 
Your methods seem fine but that number still does not make sense. The first time you added the drops of R-0871, the solution turned clear, correct? Then, when you added the R-0003, the solution turned back dark pink again, taking 12 drops top clear, right?
 
From your original description it sounds like you still have an algae problem. That "sand" in the deep end could be mustard algae. Also, if your CCs were high, then the SLAM was not over as one of the criteria is CCs < 0.5ppm. So even if the water was clear, it doesn't matter, the CCs are still to high. Dosing the pool twice a day to 30ppm may not be consistent enough if the FC drops quickly between doses. Also, when was the last time you deep cleaned the sand filter? Backwashing is fine for routine maintenance but a sand filter can still harbor lots of debris and organics. The sand bed needs to be cleaned thoroughly once per year.

I think the answer is you just need to SLAM your pool and probably babysit it a bit more to ensure that it can hold FC long enough between doses.
 
I'm using the T100. I might have it backwards, but I don't think it directly measures TC. ? I'm testing at 5 AM and around 8 PM and loosing about 10 PPM FC. Yesterday the FC was 6.5 and today it was 6.0. The CC was 5.0 yesterday and 6.0 today. I tested at 10 AM both days, but did not add chlorine. YES, I know... The SWG is on. I know I need to SLAM again, but cannot test anymore often than I do or add chlorine more often. I leave for work at 6:45 AM at the latest and return home anytime from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. Hubby is on the same schedule. Should I raise the FC higher to begin with? Would this help? Not going to work and babysitting is not an option. ;)
 

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When did the problem begin? 6 CC is not a common thing.

Typically, such high cc levels can be from bacteria eating cya and producing ammonia or some sort of test interference.

Non chlorine shock can give false high readings. Jack's #2 copper and scale remover can also give false high readings.

Normal swimmer usage or typical algae won't cause such high readings. Possibly very high urine levels could give such high cc readings.
 
This is a new liner and new fill. For the first 3 weeks, it was green tinted and cloudy. The pool guy kept dumping calcium hypochloride in and couldn't get it to hold any free chlorine. He dumped 100 lbs in that I know of. Finally, he gave up. I tested PH and it was 6.2. I raised the PH and checked the levels myself. They were (8/17):
PH 7.8
FC 12
CC 10
CH 450
TA 240
CYA 90

Pool guy stated with had nitrates and phosphates in water and it is very possible. We live on a farm surrounded by fields that all have pivots with nitrogen being added through irrigation pivots daily. Could nitrates cause this reading to be high? He did put Jack's Magic The Purple Stuff in the pool..
 
cindyhmorris said:
I'm using the T100. I might have it backwards, but I don't think it directly measures TC. ? I'm testing at 5 AM and around 8 PM and loosing about 10 PPM FC. Yesterday the FC was 6.5 and today it was 6.0. The CC was 5.0 yesterday and 6.0 today. I tested at 10 AM both days, but did not add chlorine. YES, I know... The SWG is on. I know I need to SLAM again, but cannot test anymore often than I do or add chlorine more often. I leave for work at 6:45 AM at the latest and return home anytime from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. Hubby is on the same schedule. Should I raise the FC higher to begin with? Would this help? Not going to work and babysitting is not an option. ;)
Click to expand...

Hi Cindy

I'm confused by this. You say yesterday FC was 6.5 and today it is 6 and you did not add chlorine but you're losing 10 ppm between tests in the morning and evening?
 
Really I'm thinking if your chlorine was 6.5 yesterday and 6.0 today without adding chlorine beyond the SWG then a CC of 6 is an impossibility.

Let's just run through this. 10 ml sample, add powder. Water turns pick you add r0871 one drop at a time at about one second intervals until water is clear and that was 12 drops giving you FC of 6 this morning. Then immediately after turning to clear your adding the 5 drops of r0003 to that same 10ml sample and the sample turns bright pink quickly requiring another 12 drops to turn it clear again?
 
No idea on what could be in pool. Simply put, everyone, including us, farms. All water comes out of the same aquifer.. Most farmers use chemical herbicides and fertilizers daily. Nitrogen is the most common fertilizer.

- - - Updated - - -

AimeeH said:
Really I'm thinking if your chlorine was 6.5 yesterday and 6.0 today without adding chlorine beyond the SWG then a CC of 6 is an impossibility.

Let's just run through this. 10 ml sample, add powder. Water turns pick you add r0871 one drop at a time at about one second intervals until water is clear and that was 12 drops giving you FC of 6 this morning. Then immediately after turning to clear your adding the 5 drops of r0003 to that same 10ml sample and the sample turns bright pink quickly requiring another 12 drops to turn it clear again?
Click to expand...
Yes. That's correct.
 
cindyhmorris said:
No idea on what could be in pool. Simply put, everyone, including us, farms. All water comes out of the same aquifer.. Most farmers use chemical herbicides and fertilizers daily. Nitrogen is the most common fertilizer.

- - - Updated - - -


Yes. That's correct.
Click to expand...

If ammoniacal based fertilizer is getting into your pool, it is going to generate combine chlorine compounds (monochloramine, dichloramine and nitrogen trichloride). Urea-based nitrogen fertilizers will be worse as they will create chlorourea compounds that are very irritating. Nitrate based fertilizers won't cause an FC demand per-se but they can contribute to the nitrate load in your pool water which is a source of energy for algae. Phosphates have no reaction with chlorine (at normal pool water conditions) BUT, like nitrates, they will act as a nutrient source for algae. Phosphates can be treated for (with great expense) and nitrates can not be removed except through fresh water exchange with nitrogen-free water.
 

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