where do i start???

May 28, 2009
87
AR
This is a great website but I am so overwhelmed that I don't know where to start!!

But my pool is so green.... just pulled the cover off.... what do I do first??? I have received the test kit that was recommended but do not know where to start with it!!! It has rained almost everyday and I have not been able to even work on the pool.

Are there some step by step instructions somewhere for the kit???? I guess that is why I always used the test strips!!!!

Where do i go first?????

Please advise!!!!
 
Welcome.

Post a full set of numbers and tell us about your pool. What chemicals were you using before?

Next...go to pool school and read about how to manage algae. :goodjob:

Your kit comes with instructions on how to test. They are on the lid when you open it.
 
Hi Phyllis,

Make sure you have your pump running for at least a few hours before you collect your water sample for testing. :wink:

Then, as ideliver mentioned, post your test results & other info in this thread.

Welcome to the forum :wave:
 
I finally got the test results completed... don't know how accurate they are but here goes:
FC = 0
CC = .5
TC = >.5
pH = 8.0
T/A = 80
CH = 160
CYA = cannot get reading
Temp = no temp gauge yet... will get one!

Thanks for the pdf on using the tester!

Last year I was using the jumbo tablets for chlorine and using some kind of BLAST for the shock. My pool guy was against using chlorine!!! go figure!!!

Now what???
 
When you say you can't get a CYA reading, is that because the black dot is instantly obscured (too high to get a reading) or because you fill the tube to the top and can still see the dot (too low to get a reading)? If your CYA is too high, you can dilute the sample half-and-half with tap water, and try again; double the reading, of course.
--paulr
 
Okay, you need to raise CYA and chlorine, and reduce pH. You want to leave an interval of an hour or so between adding chlorine and acid; the CYA can go in anytime. If you read through Pool School it talks about all this stuff.
--paulr
 
Hi Phylis...you should vistit pool school and read the sticky on transforming your green water into an oasis...first go to the pool calculator and determine how much CYA you need to add to get to 30ppm and reduce PH to around 7.5...you can assume zero on your CYA given you were not able to get it to register...next step is to load up on bleach or liquid chlorine and keep shocking the pool and maintain it at shock level until your FC holds over night...the water should clear by then and you can only then reduce your FC level to non-shock levels
 

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As someone who has just recently went through this, some thoughts from me are:
1. Go and buy a LOT of bleach from Sam's or Costco.....you're going to need the large 1.42gallon size to shock the pool repeatedly until you can get FC to hold overnight.
2. Run your pump 24/7.......you might well be running it for a week or more 24/7.
3. Ignore the urge to go to the pool store and spend $$$$$ on the magic chemical that will fix your pool. BBB is all you need....seriously.
4. POP (Pool Owner Patience).....read, read again, and then read pool school. Your pool didn't get this way overnight and its not going to be fixed overnight.

Using BBB has worked for hundreds on here. Just stick at it and your pool will sparkle.

Irishal
 
OK.. pH is now down to 7.2
Is the CYA the stabilizer???? Yes. it is. Just found the answer.

Do I need to get it up before I start adding the chlorine to kill the algae????

I have some old jumbo tri-chlor tablets left over from last year. Should I use those to get the pool stabilized or go buy some stabilizer???
 
phyllis said:
Do I need to get [CYA] up before I start adding the chlorine to kill the algae????
No, but you will lose chlorine because of sunlight until the CYA is in there.
phyllis said:
I have some old jumbo tri-chlor tablets left over from last year. Should I use those to get the pool stabilized or go buy some stabilizer???
The trichlor dissolves very slowly and each tab adds not very much CYA (it's the long-term cumulative effect that gets you in trouble). I recommend using real stabilizer now, which will take a few days to register, and hang onto the tabs for when you go on vacation--a couple tabs in a floater will probably maintain your FC level for a week.
--paulr
 
In the evening (sun is off the pool) check FC again, make sure it is at least 10. (If you add chlorine, wait an hour and test again so you know exactly where you are.)
In the morning, before the sun hits the pool, test again. If FC has dropped by more than 1, or CC > 0.5, then you need to continue shocking it. You'll lose a fair amount during the day due to sunlight unless you have a cover.
Repeat until overnight loss is less than 1, CC not more than 0.5, and the water looks clear.
--paulr
who is in the middle of this same process, harumph
 
phyllis said:
FC = 13
CC = 1.5

now what????

Hi and welcome. :wave:

If your shock level is 10, when you use the Pool Calculator, your "target" or "goal" is 10. Make sure you have the appropriate size for the jugs chosen, and the appropriate bleach strength.....then when you move your cursor over the amount recommended, it tells you how many jugs to add. I sounds to me like you overshot your target....based on your FC reading of 13 instead of 10.

Now, in your particular situation I am certain it won't sit there for long, but in general you want to be more careful when you make your calculations so you don't overdose your pool chems....
 

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