Got Algee For First Time - HELP!!!

Nov 7, 2015
50
Tucson, AZ
Hii,

My pool is turning green for the first time, will someone please help me?

I just check the water:
FC = 7
CC = 0
TC = 7
CH = 850 (I live in Tucson, AZ where there is A LOT of calcium in the water)
TA = 220
CYA = Over 100, I estimate 170 to 190 (I am told that the Tucson water contributes to high CYA for everyone here)

Also, for the last 2 weeks, my Hayward cleaner has not been working right so I have been trying to keep up with clean the pool with the manual vacuum attachment. However, I just got new Hayward parts, include new A frame and Turnbine. I will repair it this evening.

So, what do I need to do next please?!?!? Thank you.
 
Calcium level does not impact algae. Algae grows because there is not enough chlorine in the pool. Algae is killed with chlorine. Here is the process we use to kill algae, SLAM Process.

FC is set based on the CYA level and the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. It is impractical to maintain a pool with CYA that high. I would drain enough to get cya down to 80 or so.
 
Hi Isipwater
I dont know where you heard that Tuscon water contributes to high CYA. CYA (stabiliser) is not added to any municipal water anywhere in the world, perhaps the person who told you this was confused with CH??

The high CYA, is what has caused the problem. Basically you dont have enough chlorine for your CYA level. The only way to reduce CYA is through a drain and refill.

Are those results from your TF100 test kit or are you still awaiting its arrival?

Please goto poolmath http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html. At the bottom of the poolmath page you can figure out your pool size and update your signature. We/you need to know your pool volume to enter into pool math so it can calculate the amount of chemicals to put into your pool

Here is some info for you to read to start to understand the basics
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

If those results are from your tests I think this is what you will have to do:
Drain most of your pool and refill to reduce cya to somewhere close to 40 or 50ppm
Adjust your ph to 7.2 using muriatic acid
Raise your FC using bleach to 16 or 20 depending on your CYA level after refill and keep the FC at that level until:


  • CC is 0.5 or lower;
  • You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
  • And the water is clear.

This process will take a few days. The first couple of days you need to test FC and dose hourly (preferable) or at least a couple of times a day. The more you maintain that FC level the faster it will go
 
Hi Caco,

Thank you. As for the Tucson water contributing to high CYA, several people (including pool professionals) have told me this, however, I don't know what the exact explanation is.

Yes, the results are from my TF100 about an hour ago and I have updated my signature, my pool is 20,000.

OK, so I will drain to get 40 - 50 CYA, fill, and then start the SLAM!

Thanks for your guidance.
 
Last edited:
IKR Marian. It has to be an urban myth
I did some research and there is natural occuring CYA, but only in guano deposit in Chile!! So nothing that would affect Tucson.

I am unsure if the drinking water standards in the US allow CYA to be used, but think it is very unlikely. AFAIK generally this is only done by very poor african or asian countries where they put tablets into wells

I found nothing about CYA on Tucson waters website, only reference to the fact they use chlorine boosters in some of their system. These 'boosters'are basically adding extra chlorine at locations that are distant from the treatment plant. They wouldnt need to do that if they had CYA in the water.
 

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Thank you. As for the Tucson water contributing to high CYA, several people (including pool professionals) have told me this, however, I don't know what the exact explanation is.

perhaps they're thinking that with evaporation the CYA gets higher? Evaporation only takes the water, it leaves behind the salt, calcium, cya, etc.

The only things that lower CH and CYA are water exchanges.
 
Ahh, perhaps that is it. We do have super evaporation here due to the heat and bone dry air.

- - - Updated - - -

I do have another question.

As of this morning the pool water looks a litter better. Last night it was a light green and this morning (the pump is set to run overnight) it looks more like teal blue. Should I still proceed with the partial drain and fill to reduce CYA and then SLAM? Or should I just SLAM and not worry about CYA since the water is not looking so bad.
 

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