Intermatic Replacement - Which Model?

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T

TellyDSP

0
Aug 26, 2016
12
Baltimore, MD
I've exercised my Google-fu and am not confident I've found the answer. My current Intermatic timer motor died, and I don't know what model it is. The labels have all worn off. I'm looking to replace the whole timer since it's almost 15 years old.

I'm running a 1.5HP Whisperflo, Minimax NT, and an Aquarite. I don't see anything that would lead me to believe it's running on 240, although I believe the Minimax comes 240 from the factory.

Do I just need a standard 104? I have pictures if it helps. I will need to post them later.

TIA.
 
Took longer than planned. This equipment is all new to me and I'm struggling to sort it out. The pump model is B2854, if that helps. Also, is it possible to just replace the timer mechanism, without removing the box from the wall and detaching the conduit?


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Turn off the breaker and remove the single silver screw below the red handle of the timer. That will allow you to remove the black cover over the wires. Take a picture, but from the wires I see coming out from under the cover it appears the timer is powering two 220 loads one pipe coming out the bottom seems to go to the pump, but I can't tell where the second pipe goes. Plus, it appears there is a third wire (without seeing under the black cover) I'm guessing is wired to the line side, meaning it's hot all the time and goes to another piece of equipment.

For household wiring green wires are ground wires, white wires are neutral and all other colors are hot/power.

If this times was 110v I would expect to see a green wire, a white wire and a colored wire which was being switched by the timer

Yours has a green wire, no white wire and two colored wired (red/black) which are both being switched which tells me this is a 220v installation.

This should be the replacement - Intermatic T104M Mechanical Time Switch Mechanism Only - Wall Timer Switches - Amazon.com
 
tim5055 said:
Turn off the breaker and remove the single silver screw below the red handle of the timer. That will allow you to remove the black cover over the wires. Take a picture, but from the wires I see coming out from under the cover it appears the timer is powering two 220 loads one pipe coming out the bottom seems to go to the pump, but I can't tell where the second pipe goes. Plus, it appears there is a third wire (without seeing under the black cover) I'm guessing is wired to the line side, meaning it's hot all the time and goes to another piece of equipment.
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I'll work pm getting picture. One line out the bottom goes to the pump and the other goes to the heater. The line out the left side goes to the AquaRite. That might be the one that gets constant power. I'll have to look into it.

JohnKrupp said:
You can also just replace the timer motor if the mechanism is not damaged. That's assuming the problem with it is that its not turning.
Click to expand...
It seems to just be the motor. The switch works, but the motor is not turning. Looking closer at the enclosure, it is not weatherproof(resistant). Now I'm thinking it might be better to change the whole thing out.
 
TellyDSP said:
I'll work pm getting picture. One line out the bottom goes to the pump and the other goes to the heater. The line out the left side goes to the AquaRite. That might be the one that gets constant power. I'll have to look into it.

It seems to just be the motor. The switch works, but the motor is not turning. Looking closer at the enclosure, it is not weatherproof(resistant). Now I'm thinking it might be better to change the whole thing out.
Click to expand...
Not a big deal to look into the wiring, jus keep the wires that are under the same screw under the same screw when you change it out.

While you can replace just the motor, I'm of the opinion that when one goes just replace the whol thing before something else goes.

That is a weatherproof housing so no need to replace.
 
Life got in the way, but here are the pics of what is behind the cover. The conduit on the left goes to the Chlorine Generator, the conduit on the right comes from the breaker, and the two bottom ones go to the pump and the heater. Thanks again.


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Definitely 240V, looks like the switched leg is for pool motor and SWG. And the heater is wired hot. T-104M for mechanism only and T-104R for mechanism and rainproof box. It looks like you have the outdoor box, is there still a gasket around closing door?
 
I see lots of those old breaker boxes on the outside of homes and none of them have gaskets.

Have you looked to see if the the timer motor is running or not? Look in that opening that my red arrow is pointing to. If the gears aren't turning, then the motor is shot and you can just replace it and off you go. Cheap fix.

pool timer.jpg
 
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