It is best it ignore anything from Leslies comparing the results will lead to confusion and frustration. You don't have a bromide pool, so you can ignore the "BR" on the K-1k. You also don't need to do the "CL" either since you are doing the powdered based FC (FAS-DPD). The powder based FC test is much more accurate.
Getting a speed stir will help improve accuracy since it swirls the water for you and you just have to concentrate on the drops.
Here is a link to the extended test kit directions just to make sure you are doing the tests correctly:
Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions
1. The first order of business is adding some more MA to get your PH down to 7.2. Your TA is high which will make your PH rise faster. A SWG will naturally increase PH over time and having a high TA will make it rise even faster. We can address the high TA later as is the lowest priority for now.
2. Getting the OCLT results is the next thing that should be completed.
3. The CYA test is the most subjective and one of more important things to get a handle on since your target FC levels will depend on it. You need to do this in full sunlight with your back to the sun, vial at waist level and holding with two fingers. The trick to is to pour to 100, glace at the dot, pour to 90, glance at the dot, etc. until the dot disappears. If you are unsure of your results, you can pour the solution back and forth between the bottle and vial. A second set of eyes won't hurt either. Once you get a good reading using the methods described here, no need to keep retesting unless you replace a large amount of water like backwashing several times or every month in case you have a lot of splash out.
4. The CH test can be tedious because it is so many drops and the speed stir would help you get a handle on it. CH level is important to keep your SWG from scailing and the protect your pool surface. It is also a lower priority. Generally high CH leads to a high CSI. To manage your CSI Here are some key details from the extended test kit directions:
Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
Sometimes you have to wipe down the tip of the R-0011L and be careful that you don't add these too quickly because the size of the drops can be too small.
Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less blue. If the sample turns purple see the note on "fading endpoint" below.
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
If the sample starts to turn blue and then goes back to red/pink and stays there from several more drops this is also a "fading endpoint", see the note below.
Are the salt readings coming from your SWG? If so, the SWG display value can fluctuate based on the temp of the water. My cell displays two values, one is real time salt level which will constantly jump around and the other is a average salt reading.
Let us know when you have OCLT results. You can skip the TA and CH testing for now.
