Switching from Chlorine Tabs to Bleach

Aug 24, 2016
88
HICKSVILLE, NY
This is my current status:
FCL: 3.58
TCL: 3.58
PH: 7.6
ALK: 118
CH: 260
CYA: 116
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I'm looking to switch from buying pool store chemicals to the TFPC method. How do I use the bleach? How do I calculate the "dosage" and the frequency...how to I introduce it? Can I just pour it into my in-line chlorinator? Using the Tri-Chlor tabs was easy...just throw 5 or 6 tabs into the chlorinator every few days and I'm done. The only problem is that it's expensive, and it has been pushing up the CYA.
 
Hi and welcome to TFP. Awesome you have your location and signature already filled out, that's great.

Step 1 is a good test kit. Either the Taylor 2006 or TF-100 (link in sig). I promise you won't be disappointed with a TF-100, I am on my 3rd season with it and can't imagine keeping the pool clear without it.

While you are waiting on your test kit here are some links to get started:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Getting Started
 
You're in the same boat as me. I used Trichlor tabs and now my CYA is 100. I am doing a 50% pool drain this weekend to lower my CYA. If you don't lower it, you may be constantly fighting to keep enough chlorine in. I am aiming to get my CYA down to 50.

I normally put bleach right in front of my jet aiming into the deep end. Others may do it differently, but I believe that is the best way. It will all circulate anyways as long as your pool pump is doing its job.
 
Test results to 2 decimal places are a joke. I can almost guarantee that they are way wrong.

First and foremost, TFP method is all about frequent and reliable testing of your pool water so you can determine if and when "stuff" is to be added. Without reliable test numbers, there is very little that you can do.

That is why me and other posters will request that you get one of the 2 recommended test kits before we can really help you. Personally, I'd opt for the TH-100 with the speed stir option, but it does cost more than the Taylor kit.

Once you get the test kit and good numbers, everyone on this site will help any way they can.
 
Hello Mr Bruce. Thankyou for your reply. I had been using the Taylor 2006-K test kit for the last several years. I recently "moved up" to the Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11. It appears to give a greater degree of accuracy provided you follow the instructions to the letter. It's also less cumbersome to use.
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So I'm fairly confident in my readings. That CYA number has been troubling me and it has been the impetus behind my making the switch to bleach. Is there a video or a thread on this forum that would be helpful to someone with my pool profile?
 
lelanapple...I would have to drain more than 18 inches of water to get back to 50 CYA. Then I would spend a delightful week or two getting my other levels back. Not worth it. My plan is to drain prior to closing and hope the remaining CYA breaks down somewhat over the winter.
 
I'm in the same boat too. Used Trichlor pucks for the longest time (so convenient!). My CYA is - embarrassingly high. The trouble with CYA is it doesn't break down. You have to remove it, which means either dumping water or running it thru an expensive reverse osmosis process. In the fall I am dumping my pool completely and refilling. High CYA is just such a buzzkill for pool enthusiasts!
 
I'm in the same boat too. Used Trichlor pucks for the longest time (so convenient!). My CYA is - embarrassingly high. The trouble with CYA is it doesn't break down. You have to remove it, which means either dumping water or running it thru an expensive reverse osmosis process. In the fall I am dumping my pool completely and refilling. High CYA is just such a buzzkill for pool enthusiasts!

My CYA disappears every winter and so does my next door neighbor who has the luxury of living next to an amateur pool nerd :cool:. I am in Upstate NY and the OP is downstate and it doesn't get as cold but there is a chance your plan might result in lower CYA levels when you open next spring.
 
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