Finally starting to take care of my pool, just got test readings

[TFP_Addict]

I have a Taylor test kit 2006 and these were the readings, i did multiple tests on a few.

Chlorine 6.2 ppm (31 drops x 0.2 ppm)

Combined 0 (5 drops didn't change the color)

pH is at 8.0

Acid 5 drops to get back to 7.4 pH

Alkalinity test1: 21 drops, test2: 23 drops. ~~220 ppm

Calcium test 800 ppm..

CYA 80?? I don't really know on this one. Pretty sure it's like ~80-+ maybe

And we currently having problems with yellow algae forming at the bottom near the shaded parts of the pool. I can easily sweep it off. But it does come back shortly after.

From what I gather. I removed the tablets we have in the pool because the chlorine level is so high. I need to add 30 oz of Muradic Acid (31%).

Any recommended course of action, which steps should I take first, second, third and so on?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Sickest,

Well, with your CYA being 80 or 90, you really must keep your Free Chlorine (FC) level above 6 or 7 ppm at all times, not just every now and again. Assuming your CYA is actually 90 you need to target an FC level of 10 ppm, and never let it fall below 7. See Chlorine CYA Chart

I show you need to add 44 oz of MA to reduce your pH to 7.4.

While I applaud removing the tabs, which is a great idea, the reason you want to do this is because they are the reason your CYA is so high. Your chlorine level is actually too low and that is why you are fighting algae.

Jim R.

 

[TFP_Addict]

Ok so just dumped 1 gallon of liquid chlorine. And 36 oz Of muratic acid

Should I wait a day. Or add another gallon of liquid chlorine

 

[Jimrahbe]

Well, a gallon, depending on the strength, should bring you up to 10 ppm. So, I'd wait until tomorrow morning and retest and see where you are. Then I'd use "Pool Math" (See top of page) and see how much more, if any, you need to add.

Same goes for the pH.

I'd keep that up for a day, or so, and then do an OCLT. Overnight FC Loss Overnight FC Loss Test

Once we know the results of the OCLT we can determine what to do next.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[TFP_Addict]

OK, so I just tested again.

Chlorine 10-11 ppm
pH 7.8
Alkalinity 220 ppm

Is it ok that my alkalinity is so high? From what i'm reading, it's dangerous if the TA is too low. Then the pH can swing quickly.

What can I do to lower the calcium levels from 800? because we not allowed in my city to replace pool water. Is there something I can add to reduce these levels? Is 800 ppm a problem?

 

[gtr1999]

FYI,
I had CYA of 90 a couple of weeks ago. I dumped water out of the pool about 3 -4" at a time and filled back with fresh tap water. I did this 4-5 times and my CYA is now 50-55 and have been able to hold FC around 7. I am new to this as well and since we only have about 3 weeks left of pool weather so that is how I'm going to leave it till next Spring.

 

[TFP_Addict]

you live in New Haven, CT. Where i'm sure there isn't a water shortage.

In California, our city would go ape sh1t.

 

[domct203]

you live in New Haven, CT. Where i'm sure there isn't a water shortage.

In California, our city would go ape s**t.

Very true.

Have you priced a RO treatment (Reverse Osmosis) to remove some of your CYA & CH? Your CSI right now (at 84F) is a 1. This is a hostile environment for your plaster & equipment, and it is very likely that calcium scale will/has began to form.

Your CSI should be in the -0.3 to 0.3 range, have a read here for a bit more info.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/107245-CSI-(Calcite-Saturation-Index

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/112848-Understanding-CSI-(Calcite-Saturation-Index

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4507-Langelier-and-Calcite-Saturation-Indices-(LSI-and-CSI

To get your CSI I put all your test results into Pool Math and used 84F for the temp.

I'm not an expert in plaster, but there are ways to manage this. If you lower your TA to 100, and keep your pH at 7.4 your CSI moves to 0.25 at 90F, close to the upper limit, but much better than a CSI of 1. If you continue to lower TA to 80, your CSI will be 0.1. These CSI values are with your current CH & CYA levels.

Here is how you lower TA:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity

Have you tested your fill water? I bet it has high CH & TA as well.

 

[gtr1999]

you live in New Haven, CT. Where i'm sure there isn't a water shortage.

In California, our city would go ape sh1t.

Yes it depends on what part of the country you're in, no question. We are starting to see some water issues here as well. Nothing like the West coast but certainly not normal. We pay about $4 100ccf or 748 gallons a real bargain compared to oil or gas these days.

 

[TFP_Addict]

And we currently having problems with yellow algae forming at the bottom near the shaded parts of the pool. I can easily sweep it off. But it does come back shortly after.

The yellow algae isn't reforming in the same places anymore, after I did sweep them from their normal locations to the bottom of the deep end, you can see a yellow spots near the intake at the deep end. Will it take time for those to eventually go away? or what do you guys think?


Should I use Yellowtrine to fight off the remaining yellow algae or shock the pool? Or just keep the chlorine levels high. Right now the pool chlorine levels are at 12.5 ppm.