24 hour poor reading

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J

J4A

0
Aug 15, 2016
19
Orangevale, CA
So I just took my first readings of my pool after 24 hours. It's did rain with cover off and got about 1-2 inches of rain water in the pool.

FC-none. Not sure why I put in a gallon of 12.5 percent yesterday

cc-none same as above.

ph-7.2. I have 1.75lbs of pool seasons conditioner in a nylon bag attached to my ladder????

alk- 80ppm. Should I raise this???

What should I do to raise these readings quickly and safely or should I leave them be. My first thought was to add 1 gallon of chlorine next to the filter so that it'll pump around the pool again and then check tomorrow with the pool cover on tonight what do y'all think
 
Using a pool master 5 step test kit and got the Taylor 2006 kit on order.
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Perfect! When you receive the Taylor kit, please post up a full set of test results. Your readings will tell the whole story. Please rank in order like this:

CYA
FC
CC
CH
TA
PH

If your water is not clear, or your walls feel slimy (like algae), add 1/2 gallon of bleach daily and brush the walls, etc. It is hard to advise because we all need to know where your CYA level is and the condition of your pool water. When is the kit arriving?
 
Oops! Forgot we bought that test separate yesterday until the Taylor kit comes in on Wednesday. The test, if I am doing it right, is less than 20 ppm cya:eek:... No wonder I have no chlorine?!?

should I open up the nylon sock and spread what's left of the cya in the pool? Yesterday I put 1.75 lb of cya in the pool and today there is none.

oh and then I wonder if maybe we should wait a week to test cya since we just added it yesterday?

Added info, since it is a new pool, we ran the pump for 8 hours yesterday before the rain came in. We thought we would start out running the pump for four hours a day and then monitor tests to see if that is enough. Not sure if we didn't run it enough for the cya to distribute well enough?
 
should I open up the nylon sock and spread what's left of the cya in the pool? Yesterday I put 1.75 lb of cya in the pool and today there is none.
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No, it takes time for CYA to register. Hang it in a sock and let it slowly dissolve in the pool. Squeeze it daily as well. Here at TFP, we rely on accurate testing and only recommend certain kits, which you have ordered. Please wait until the kit arrives on Wednesday. Post up the results and you will receive the help needed.

You could have organics in your pool and your test results will tell the whole story. Please only add the bleach at night (when sun has gone down or early in the morning). Otherwise, it could burn off pretty quickly.

You also will need to brush your pool regularly and keep your FC levels at the minimum based on your CYA in order to have a trouble free pool.
 
How is the condition of your water? Is it green and do you have algae?

Can you post up a few pictures? You can use the "insert image" tab when you respond. If you are taking with smart phone and sending via computer, I would recommend you e-mail a picture to yourself, then download to your computer for uploading, etc. Thanks!
 
Just got the Taylor 2006 test kit today. Here are my numbers. Any thoughts of what to do? Pool seems clean no issues no algae no nothing . Just want to make sure my numbers are good

Fc- 12.4
Cc- .4
Ph- 7
Base demand test 6 drops.
Alkalinity Cc- 90
Ch- Cc- 130
Cya- 100

The pool calculator says to get my pH from 7 to 7.5 I should I had 60 ounces of Borax which is about one box Of the stuff which I have. Should I or should I not add that box.
 
Catanzaro said:
How is the condition of your water? Is it green and do you have algae?
!
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Water is clear no algae. The walls don't feel slimy and seem fine. Everything seems okay except the eyes burn after being in for a while and opening eyes underwater, but I remember that being the case when I was little in pools too. What I'm reading that's low ph which our test says. I am going to add half the box of borax and re test, then add the rest just so I don't somehow go over on ph.
 
Can you please do a dilution test for the CYA. add 50% tap water and 50% pool water and test your CYA and post the results. You may have to drain some water to lower your CYA. Also, please test your tap water (only PH and TA) to determine levels. If your PH is higher, and you have to drain (which is probably the case), then you can naturally raise your PH. Your CC is fine as you have a liner pool and your alkalinity should work at 90, without your PH drifting a little higher.

Let's start with CYA first and please test your tap water as well and re-post results. Thanks!

Should I or should I not add that box
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Not yet, until you test. Then if the tap water comes in low with the PH, you can increase, unless you can replace 50% of your water in a day or two.
 

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J4A said:
Sorry I mis read it the first time. 50%tap/50% pool CYA- 45 ppm
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Your CYA is a little CYA. You can still manage the pool with a CYA of 90-100, although you must keep your FC levels based on the minimums of 7.5%, or 8 each and every day. Or you could replace water to bring down to a manageable level, which allows you to keep your levels lower. Our recommended levels are 30-50 for regular pools (non SWG). Probability is that you will loose 1 ppm of CYA per month and with rain, splash out, etc., you could be down to normal levels within a year or so.

This is all up to you at this point. If you decide not to drain, then bring up your FC levels to the minimum and increase your PH with Borax or aeration. In your pool, Borax is your best bet. TA of 70 is fine, just keep an eye on it. Half a box of Borax may be too much. Please use Pool Math. Only use 50% of what pool math states, test the next day and add the remainder if you need it. Please keep us posted on whether or not your are replacing water or adjusting for higher chlorine levels.
 
Thanks for the info!
Since we have to winterize the pool in a month or so, and our Tap has a low ph, we are going try to raise the ph with borax. My husband said he used the pool math last night so I am going to add some of the borax today, if we have to drain it after we can try that.
 
PH readings are not accurate when chlorine levels are above 10 PPM

Here is some info from the extended test directions.... Pool School - pH Test

pH levels lower than 6.8 will read as 6.8. pH levels higher than 8.2 will read as 8.2.
High FC levels will throw off the test results. The Taylor pH reagent is compensated up to an FC level of 10. When FC is beween 10 and 20 the test will read higher than actual, the reading will be off by more at higher the FC levels. At FC levels somewhat above 20 the phenol red converts to chlorphenol red and will read as 8.2 at any plausible pH level. Chlorphenol red is sometimes used to measure pH levels between 5.2 and 6.6. Some other brands start having problems at much lower FC levels.

So if i read that correctly, you may have to adjust PH and then adjust it again due to the initial high reading with FC above 12. Alternatively you could let it drop below 10 and re-test PH.
 
Thanks for the info! Since we have to winterize the pool in a month or so, and our Tap has a low ph, we are going try to raise the ph with borax. My husband said he used the pool math last night so I am going to add some of the borax today, if we have to drain it after we can try that
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My PH is always low in the spring. This year, I will increase to 7.8-8.0 before closing. The PH drops with the cover on. There is no outgassing as it is solid. Additionally, the rain water that is pumped back in lowers the PH. Usually I keep my PH around 7.4-7.6 at all times.
 
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