How to improve water quality quickly after a SHOCK?

Dec 30, 2015
31
San Jose, CA
Hello
During my recent water testing, I was so surprised to see CYA was over 100. I really don't know why because I stopped using Tabs months ago, and the rest 4 chemicals I have ever put into my pool so far are:
1) (powder) Granular of LeisureLiving, 99.3% of Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione dehydrate, relevant amount used every week after a water test.
2) Chlorinating Liquid of KEMTEK, 10% of Sodium Hypochlorite, relevant amount used after a water test, only used about 4 or 5 times when needed, all before I had received the Granular.
3) (liquid) Muriatic Acid of KEMTEK, 14.5% of Hydrogen Chloride, relevant amount used after a water test, only used about 2 or 3 times when needed.
4) Regular 20 Mule Team Borax, relevant amount used after a water test, only used 3 or 4 times when needed.

That is, none of above 4 chemicals has anything to do with high CYA, right? And in last 2 months, I only put Granular powder into the pool since other chemicals were balanced.

A little more contexts: I had my vinyl replaced in mid of last Dec, so I had the opportunity to start with a whole pool of fresh water. I know certain CYA is "helpful" to hold chlorine accountable, so at the beginning, I used the 3" Tabs of aqua chem, which had 94.05% of Trichloro-s-triazinetrione. When CYA reached about 50, I stopped using it, it was in this Apr timeframe or so. I didn't test CYA anymore without Tabs.

I tested CYA twice in last 7 or 10 days, I really don't understand why CYA is 100+. How could that be? My latest water test result in this morning:
FC: 17
CC: ~0
PH: 7.3
TA: 70
Cal. Hardness: 110
CYA: 100+

Thank you!

Kevin
 
Hello
I shocked my pool last week due to algae for the first time, now the water quality is getting much better, and close to the level before the algae effect, but it is still a little “cloudy". Well, I am not a patient guy, so are there any ways I can quickly have a "crystal" clear pool of water again?

The latest water test result in this morning is below:
FC: 17
CC: ~0
PH: 7.3
TA: 70
Cal. Hardness: 110
CYA: 100+ (I have posted another thread about this issue)

So far, I mainly use Granular of LeisureLiving (powder), 99.3% of Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione dehydrate to do the regular water clean every week. Should I add anything else to speed up the cleaning process? I saw some Ads about coagulant and other pool chemicals. But I am reluctant to put some chemicals I don't know into my pool, and the possible chemical reactions could worsen the water quality or even damage the vinyl/pipe/pump/filter cartridge etc.

Thank you!

Kevin
 
Re: Why is CYA so hight?

Sorry, I am not a chemist. I was told that as long as it was sodium based, it should be good to use. So, my questions are:
Q1: Does it mean I must stop using #1 now otherwise CYA keeps getting higher?
Q2: Any suggestions for an effective alternate which does the most chlorinating job?

Thank you!

Kevin
 
Re: Why is CYA so hight?

No powered potions are ever as good as liquid chlorine. Either bleach or other liquid chlorine is all you should ever need. No reason for weekly 'shock' if you are maintaining the proper CYA/FC ratio as shown in the Pool School chart.

- - - Updated - - -

Using Pool Math shows that for every 1.8ppm of chlorine you were adding 1.6 ppm of CYA. using the Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione dehydrate.
 
The only thing you ever regularly put in your pool is bleach or liquid chlorine. Any magic powder or elixir is just costing you $ and causing the issues you are seeing. As noted in your other thread.

You just need to keep the FC up and the SLaM level and wait it out while your filter does it's job. You could remove the cartridge and give it a good cleaning just to be sure it's doing it's job to the best of it's abilities.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and you are going to have to dump at least 50% or your water and add new, so I wouldn't even think about anything else until you do that.
 
Re: Why is CYA so hight?

Oh and you are going to have to dump at least 50% or your water and add new, so I wouldn't even think about anything else until you do that. Just to maintain a clean pool is going to require a minimum of 7ppm FC and you really should be up around 12 or more. Until you know for sure how high you cranked your CYA you really can't say for sure.
 
That Dichlor you have been using contains even more CYA per unit of FC than the dreaded trichlor pucks do. Trichlor pucks add about 2 parts CYA for every 3 parts FC they add, vs Dichlor which adds close to 1 part CYA for every 1 part FC.

Actual numbers are something like 11 FC to 6.6C YA for Trichlor pucks and 7.7 FC to 7 CYA for Dichlor.
 

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Thank you every one for your replies.

I find in a long term, the total cost of using liquid chlorine is not very low, neither the bleach or other liquid chlorinating, because the [FONT=Microsoft Yahei, sans-serif, Arial, Verdana]active/effective ingredients of Chlorine is not very high, like ~10%. [/FONT][FONT=Microsoft Yahei, sans-serif, Arial, Verdana]I thing everything has its own pros and cons, but I will stop using powder Dichlor from now on, and will replace water to lower CYA later.[/FONT]
 
But you need to look at the cost of a ppm of FC for each source. Bleach is generally the lowest ... especially when the negatives of the alternatives are considered.

A pool needs to have 2-4ppm of FC added every day, regardless of the source. Bleach has no side effects other than transportation efforts and disposal of bottles.
 
Thanks, MarianParoo. Just want to make sure, your tool helps calculate the price per unit (fl. oz), and we don't see what the products are. E.g., Home Depot Brand, it is 1x128 ounce jugs for $2.99, so the $/oz is 0.187, but we don't know what that specific product (brand) is, correct?

BTW, just curious, does Sodium HypoChlorite (12.5%) work well in pool chlorinating? I don't see this type of product in "Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool", which only mentions Calcium Hypo and Lithium Hypo. And this Sodium HypoChlorite is originally used for chlorinating the water in cooling tower systems.

Thank you!
 
. . . this Sodium HypoChlorite (12.5%) is sold at http://www.chemworld.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CW56, and used for chlorinating the water in cooling tower systems. Not sure it works in pool, but the ingredient (Sodium HypoChlorite) is the same to other pool liquid chlorinating products.

Yes that product would work great; it's the same as other liquid chlorine products, but it's very pricey at Chemworld. I recently bought 17 gals (17 one gallon jugs) of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite ("Pool Shock") at Menard's for less than $50. At Chemworld 15 gals costs $345. No wonder they offer free shipping.
 
Thanks, MarianParoo. Just want to make sure, your tool helps calculate the price per unit (fl. oz), and we don't see what the products are. E.g., Home Depot Brand, it is 1x128 ounce jugs for $2.99, so the $/oz is 0.187, but we don't know what that specific product (brand) is, correct?

BTW, just curious, does Sodium HypoChlorite (12.5%) work well in pool chlorinating? I don't see this type of product in "Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool", which only mentions Calcium Hypo and Lithium Hypo. And this Sodium HypoChlorite is originally used for chlorinating the water in cooling tower systems.

Thank you!
That is liquid chlorine. It is number 1 in the link you posted.
 
Sorry, forget to attach the link, this Sodium HypoChlorite (12.5%) is sold at http://www.chemworld.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CW56, and used for chlorinating the water in cooling tower systems. Not sure it works in pool, but the ingredient (Sodium HypoChlorite) is the same to other pool liquid chlorinating products.

HASA sells 12.5% Sodium Hypochloite (Liquid Chlorine), I purchase by the case as I use it all the time, sold by many pool stores in my area.
 

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