Frog Leap

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cottrillj

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Aug 9, 2016
18
Illinois
This is my first post here, so I hope it's in the right spot. I'm looking for expertise on the Frog Leap System. We just had our pool installed last month (July 18) and we have this, in my opinion, waste-of-money system. I have continually adjusted the dial down to where it is now just a fraction above the "zero" setting. My chlorine has never strip-tested below 3ppm, unless the chlorine pac is empty or close to it. We just had 4.5" of rain this passed weekend and it was still reading 5ppm the next day.... I've never shocked it since install

I've mentioned this twice to our pool place and they act like it's OK. I have a hard time believing this is normal. I've read the manual and the chart on there says our's (32x16 oval or 12,500 gal) should be set between 4-6, depending on pump run. Like I said, I'm set below 1.

Any input is appreciated

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Welcome to TFP!

I really recommend doing some reading in the links pooldv shared. The main idea of the Frog system is to maintain very low FC levels (0.5 ppm), which would be fine if there wasn't CYA in the water. Since the chlorine source in bac pacs introduces CYA in the water that chlorine is buffered and maintaining a clear pool with such a low FC level quickly becomes difficult.

As we teach here, measuring and adjusting for your CYA level leads to clear water that is safe and comfortable, even if the chlorine level is higher than normally considered ideal. I formerly used a frog but don't any more and my water has never been better. I don't hate the system itself, the silver it uses in the mineral pac is not the worst thing you can add to your water, but my costs have gone down and water quality has improved since switching to TFPC.
 

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cottrillj said:
Is there anyone on here who DOES like the FrogLeap System?

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Probably not.

What you are finding is common. You have a new pool and it will be clear using this system for a long time. The system you have uses a solid form of chlorine and a "mineral pac". Both of these are slowly adding things to your water we don't want. The solid chlorine adds stabilizer and the mineral pack adds "minerals". What are the "minerals"? Most commonly copper and maybe silver.

It is the long term cumulative effects of adding these things to your water that cause problems. As the stabilizer builds up you need ever higher levels of chlorine to have the same sanitizing effects. Now, as the "minerals" build up they will eventually reach a level that can cause staining of the floor/walls of your pool and in some cases stain blonde hair green.

Once these things are in the water they stay there. The only way to remove them is through a water exchange. Read around the forum and you will see hundreds of pool owners who have had to drain the vast majority of their water to get these things under control.
 
Had this system for my first year and then removed it at the beginning of this season. Using the tfp methods my pool is crystal clear with no issues and a lot more money in my pocket. If I continued with the frog system this year my cya levels would have been through the roof. Your pool installer is just like the pool store. When questions can't be answered by so called professionals it's time to get the answers yourself. That's where I found TFP.
 
cottrillj said:
Is there anyone on here who DOES like the FrogLeap System?

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I can say with 99.9% confidence that no, you will not find a single person on this forum that likes the Frog based systems. I too had one on my pool that we acquired with our house. We closed on our house in September, and I ran the frog in it till we closed the pool that winter. When I oped it up in Spring, I found this site and went with the TFP method. Even after having drained to winterize and then filling the pool back up with rainwater and tap, my CYA was 160ppm. I drained water and got my CYA down, then I removed the frog from my plumbing, and installed a T that my stenner pump could connect to instead. My neighbor has an identical pool with the same Frog XL system on it that I had. He's had problems with his pool all year long. It gets cloudy every time he has people in it, and in addition to the $400 in chemicals (bac pacs, metal magic, etc) he bought at the beginning of the season he has since been to the pool store more times than I can count and bought several other bottles of clarifier and who knows what else. He doesn't trust me to test his water, only the pool store, but I'd bet my next paycheck he's got too high CYA, not enough chlorine, and algae growing under the stairs.

In my opinion, you are much better off feeding chlorine (preferably liquid, or gas via a SWCG) and maintaining it at proper levels for your CYA than trying to maintain it with the frog system. You don't have to remove your frog though..I only did so because I was tired of looking at it and wanted to reclaim the space on my equipment pad. I am also comfortable cutting and gluing pvc.
 
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