Stains algae and filter

Aug 17, 2016
1
louisville/KY
Does metal gone reduce effectiveness of filter? or perhaps have tendency to promote algae?

I just moved to KY from FL where I had a pool for 12+ years, so I have plenty of experience balancing pools, but are there significant differences in KY? The first thing I realized is that there are higher amounts of metal in the water, hence why I needed to use metal gone to get rid of a green stain on the bottom of a 15k gal fiberglass pool. Its seems that ever since then I cant seem to get the pool stabilized.

It appears the metal gone did its job, but ever since then I have had to shock the pool and re balance almost daily to keep things fresh. I have a 4-cartridge filter replaced 4 months ago, with chlorine tabs in-line, and have cleaned this filter twice now in the past week. Its been about 2 weeks since I used the metal gone. I checked the filter since I kept having the algae and visually it seems OK. We've had allot of rain, so keeping the pH around 7.6 has been a struggle, but still...I know how to keep the pool balanced. I've used about 6 gallons of liquid chlorine since this time, 6 bags of all-in-one, prolly over a gallon of algaecide (the condensed versions, trying different brands), maybe 2 qts of water clarifyer. I've even used bromine just to keep things extra clean. My alkalinity seems OK, but Ill admit I'v been using the test strips that I never did in FL. Acid levels and hardness, again...OK.

The one topic Im starting to be concerned about is phosphate levels. I thought this was a scam, which in 12 years in FL I dont recall using phosphate removers ever. I thought anything less than 500-1000ppm was OK, but the pool place I got my water tested at tries to sell me this every time I go there. I think my level was ~250ppm, which they say it should be no more than 100ppm. I would greatly appreciate any advice folks are willing to give, and thanks in advance for your time!
 
Welcome to TFP

Have you tried any protein, moss, enzymes or root killer? No? Thank goodness for that. ;)

Start here: Pool School - Getting Started
And here: Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
And here: TFPC for Beginners

If you're serious about switching to TFPC and sorting out your pool, order a TF100 or K-2006 test kit and post a list of all the chemicals you've put in the pool, including:
Brand name | product name | chemical name | concentration | amount of product put in the pool
 
Screeli, welcome. I hope you get a test kit and do a read of the TFP way so that you can get out from under the pool store elixirs, many of which contraindicate each other ;)

However, as resident phosphate experimenter, I will tell you right off the bat that the pool store mantra on phosphates is ill-informed overall, and that at these levels all you really need to know is that maintaining FC to TFP standard of 7.5% of CYA (see [fc/cya][/FC/cya] ) will keep you algae free so phosphates are fairly moot.

Metal management can be complex and while I'd be glad to help you with this going forward, I don't want to overwhelm you when you first need to get the TFT basics dialed in and get a TFT100 or Taylor k2006 test kit (TFTestkits.net) for the regular balancing.

So do that then post back if you're on well or not, and let me know if you happen to know the iron level in said well if you're on one, or municipal water report.

Also, please know that depending on brand, some Algaecides add copper to pools, which exacerbates metal management. You will not need to fool with Algaecides if you follow TFP levels/care routine.

After you've read-in a bit, let us know how we can help. Cheers to clear!
 
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