DIY passive Chlorinator

[Dougo]

Hi,
I have been running my own home-built chlorinator that works on a similar principle to the Liquidator (The Liquidator is not available in Australia)
My Chlorinator is based on a 'Wheelie' (Garbage) HDPE 120 litre bin. I have modified float valves to use with the chlorinator, but like some users of the Liquidator I find the systems cakes up with a salt like layer. This means the valves sometimes do not seal, & the filter drains down due to air entering when the pump stops.
I have ordered a motorised ball valve that I will try to use as a stop when the pump stops. The valve is 304 stainless, that operates off 12v. The valve opens with 12v application, then automatically shuts off when the power is removed. I will start by fitting one to the tank fill line so it operates once the pump starts. If that is successful, I will remove the float valve on the tank outlet & fit a delay start to that motorised valve, as well as a switch on the tank to close the valve (by removing power to the valve) if the tank level falls below a set level.
If these motorised valves are successful, I might be able to get around the build-up causing issues.

My chlorinator is hooked up with 1/2" silicon lined tube. I adjust the flow with a clamp on the tubing that goes to the suction side of the pump. This system has been working for about 5 years! One issue that has caused problems is the use of irrigation fittings to connect the system up. The chlorine eats the plastic so the fittings only last about 3 years.

I also run a Copper/Silver Ioniser. I also do not use any Chlorine stabiliser (cyanuric acid). My pool is covered with shadecloth which keeps the leaves out of the pool, & also reduces chlorine loss due to the sunlight. I run the pump off the mains utilising power that would be exported from my Solar PV system.

 

[needsajet]

Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here

That sounds like an interesting system. You won't feel much love around here for metal ionizers, but certainly intriguing to hear about your chlorinator.

When you get a chance, add the city/state/country to your profile, and thanks for filling out your signature.

 

[Dougo]

I am not sure why tou say the Ionisers are not loved. I had a lot of problem with the pool going green before I fitted an Ioniser. I now use much less chemical, & the pool rarely goes green.
I was surprised that when I started using the Ioniser, I got a froth build up in the skimmer box (which I skimmed off). This lasted for about a week then stopped. I have never seen it since. I run the chlorine at about 1.5ppm, but the water always tests clean. I use about 15Litres of chlorine every 2-3 weeks (less in winter when I only run the pump for 2 hours/day) AS I said, I have no Cyanuric acid in my pool, so the chlorine burns off during the day. This never seems to be a problem. The water is definitely very soft. (Definitely no Chloramines present)

I also run Zeolite as a sand filter medium. Because we are on rainwater, I use extreme water saving techniques (such as saving the backwash water, letting it settle, then re-using it.) When the pool overfills with rain, I pump the excess water into a storage tank.

 

[pabeader]

In the end, if it works for you that's great. There are always exceptions to everything. Our theory is that the fewer things you have to do the, more Trouble Free your pool is.
Over time the metals will build up and cause staining on people and your pool.
We always recommend at least a small amount of CYA, just to help buffer the harshness of the chlorine from people and equipment.

 

[needsajet]

To clarify, ionisers are not part of Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) which is a set of methods followed here at TFP. There are many experts here who help people as they switch away from pool store guidance or some of the various alternative sanitizer systems which are causing trouble for them.

The ioniser works for most people to prevent algae but can not kill pathogens fast enough to be considered a sanitizer for pools. So since you're using chlorine to sanitize the pool anyway, we just prefer to avoid staining risks from adding metals to the pool.

With no CYA, a free chlorine level of 1.5 ppm results in a much harsher level of active chlorine than anything used in TFPC. We use CYA to buffer the harsh form of chlorine while retaining a reserve of free chlorine ready to replace active chlorine as its used up for killing pathogens and neutralizing organic contamination. You mention that your FC burns off, which of course it would do very quickly without CYA. FC half-life averages about 35 minutes in full sun with no CYA. When the chlorine burns off, your pool becomes unsafe due to the risk of person-to-person disease transfer.

Algae is consistently prevented when TFPC methods for chlorine use are followed without any need for other algaecides, be they ionisers, powders or liquid products. So I just wanted to mention that you won't find the approach supported here. We're all entirely free to run our pools any way we see fit, but I just wanted to give you the heads-up.

It sounds like your water retention system is really helpful.

You might enjoy the first post in this thread, which provides an excellent description of TFPC: TFPC for Beginners

 

[atttech-2]

I have ordered a motorized ball valve that I will try to use as a stop when the pump stops. The valve is 304 stainless, that operates off 12v. The valve opens with 12v application, then automatically shuts off when the power is removed.

Your system sounds cool, you may find that the high concentration of chlorine will pit and even cause a small amount of rust on the stainless ball valve. If that happens you may want to consider moving to a actuated PVC style valve.

 

[gwegan]

Can we see pictures?