My Chlorine has been low for a couple days. I have a 25000 gal inground pool with a Hayward AquaRite saltwater chlorine generator. The lights say on and generating and do not indicate any problems. My water is clear. My salt level has stayed at 3000 or 3100. I had the person that works on my pool some check that it's set to the right cell size T-15. Hayward says it must be a chemical problem and to check phosphates and nitrates. The ph is 7.5, but chlorine has stayed at .5 I don't know what to do. I have the TF 100 testing kit, but I don't think it can test for those. I have been unable to get my water to a pool store as I am an assistant principal and this is the first week back to school- the stores close before I get done. The water still looks great now, but I know it won't stay that way if the CL stays low. Any suggestions would be great!
No Chlorine, but Salt system says running fine
- Thread starter Splemons
- Start date
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
I would manually add bleach to stay above your minimum given your CYA level. I would also stay out of the pool store, if you have a TF-100 that's all you need.
Get chlorine in your pool NOW! 2-3 ppm is fine. Post test results. Use the good tool that you have with the TF-100.
Stay OUT of the pool store.
read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
Stay OUT of the pool store.
read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
It is important to always maintain FC above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. When FC drops below minimum the pool is unsanitary and bacteria, viruses and pathogens aren't killed quickly enough to prevent person to person disease transmission. Either turn up the SWG or use bleach or both.
Can you post the diagnostic readings?
What cell do you have?
Have you had the salt independently verified?
What cell do you have?
Have you had the salt independently verified?
yeah
I have it cranked up to super chlorinate, but it's still at .5 after a day of that. I put 2 chlorine tabs (left from previous owner) in the skimmer. I just notices a small rattle noise that sounds like it might be in a valve to the left of the filter- could something be blocking the chlorine? The jets seem to be circulating fine.
Someone earlier posted about bleach. Can I pour bleach in a saltwater pool? It seems like I can from what I read in the pool school section, but I'm nervous to do that.
- - - Updated - - -
I have the salt system up to super chlorinate, but it's not improving despite having a fine salt reading. I put 2 chlorine tablets in skimmer (left from previous owner), but otherwise, I don't know how to get my system working properly.
- - - Updated - - -
The saltwater system is on superchlorinate, but Hayward still says it's a water chemisty problem
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
That is a really, really bad idea. Pucks/tabs are very acidic and can cause damage to equipment.
Bleach = liquid chlorine = what a SWG does with salt, produce chlorine.
My worry with adding the liquid bleach is that I won't know if my salt system is working properly and generating
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Yep, you can add bleach to a saltwater pool, and this is a good time to stop any further use of chlorine pucks. Make sure the bleach has a % sodium hypochlorite listed. 8.25% is a good strength to use.
Please post complete test results like this:
FC 0.5
CC ?
pH 7.5
TA ?
CH ?
CYA ?
Salt 3100
And provide your pump run time and whether or not your SWG runs during the entire pump run time. Thanks
Please post complete test results like this:
FC 0.5
CC ?
pH 7.5
TA ?
CH ?
CYA ?
Salt 3100
And provide your pump run time and whether or not your SWG runs during the entire pump run time. Thanks
your goal should be correct FC level in the pool, SWG just convenience feature which needs to be watched after as it doesn't have FC sensor. SWG simply produces FC at certain rate. Then FC is consumed by UV breakdown from sunlight, bather load or algae in your pool. SWG has no clue about those things and continues production at the same constant rate. Without you regularly checking FC level (at least every other day) this 'system' is recipe for disaster in 'full auto' mode.
I really don't understand this AT ALL.
You asked for suggestions on how to add bleach to your pool and three really smart guys said add bleach (and even implied it was urgent!). You added chlorine pucks (bad idea)... but then you say you didn't add bleach because you wouldn't know if the cell is producing. Begging the question: how will you know if the cell is producing after you added pucks? PS - You got great advice the first three times.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
You might be thinking they suggested to stop using the SWG and switch to daily bleach, but that's not what they meant. They know you need to get your FC up to a proper level or you're going to have problems. Then we can sort out the SWG and the SWG will be able to maintain your correct FC level. But in the meantime, the SWG is not a good choice for bringing the FC up quickly. We use liquid chlorine to get that done right away, while the SWG keeps on putting out chlorine in it's slow, steady way.
Your diagnostics look pretty good. The salt system is definitely working.
Your amps are a little lower than I would expect for your water temperature and salinity. Maybe a scaling issue? Check the cell for scaling.
Your salt is a little low. Add about 40 lbs.
The software revision r1.15 is unusual. Are you sure about that number?
Here is what I suggest.
1) Forget about phosphates and nitrates.
2) Get the TF100 test kit and a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and check all chemistry
3) Add enough bleach to get the fc to 15% of the cya. Use only regular bleach that says sodium hypochlorite 8.25% on the label. Don’t get outdoor, splashless, scented, easy pour or any other type of special use bleach. Add 3 gallons as soon as possible.
4) Run the pump continuously until the chemistry is under control.
5) Do an OCLT
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
6) Report back results.
Your amps are a little lower than I would expect for your water temperature and salinity. Maybe a scaling issue? Check the cell for scaling.
Your salt is a little low. Add about 40 lbs.
The software revision r1.15 is unusual. Are you sure about that number?
Here is what I suggest.
1) Forget about phosphates and nitrates.
2) Get the TF100 test kit and a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and check all chemistry
3) Add enough bleach to get the fc to 15% of the cya. Use only regular bleach that says sodium hypochlorite 8.25% on the label. Don’t get outdoor, splashless, scented, easy pour or any other type of special use bleach. Add 3 gallons as soon as possible.
4) Run the pump continuously until the chemistry is under control.
5) Do an OCLT
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
6) Report back results.