HELP Low PH and No Free Chlorine

Aug 14, 2016
23
Uvalda, GA
Help needed! We just renovated our pool 3 weeks ago. The pool man has been trying to get our water straight continuously and has not been successful. To begin with, he stated our phosphates were way too high. From what I've seen on here, that's not an issue. I need some help getting this pool in line!

Here's the issue: PH is 6.2. For the past week, he has added 9 lbs of shock a day and added 18 yesterday. FC is at zero in as little as 3 hours each time. CYA is 30. Alk is 140. FC is above 10.

20x40 Grecian Vinyl
SWG
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

Who is going to take care of the pool, you or him?

Who is doing the testing and what are they using?

What kind of "shock" is he using?

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100. That will give you what you need while you are stabilizing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry
 
I will be taking care of the pool. I will order the test kit today and have already done the homework :). From what I can tell, I have to raise the PH and continue to shock until break through chlorination is achieved. I feel that the problem is that he is shocking only once a day. Yesterday was the first day that the pool was not green. He is shocking with Calcium Hypochlorate.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP cindyhmorris

Draining and re-filling is always an option just depends on how much trouble and expense is involved. Being you're in Georgia water is likely not restricted and also cheap. ;)

Curing your porblem is likely just a matter of getting the ph in the proper range first and then adding chlorine (FC) and holding it at a high enough level to kill the algae.
(TF100 kit link in my signature. Take a look at the Speed Stir too, it's very handy when testing)

More frequent testing and adjustments will cut down the time a SLAM takes. But that pH really needs to be corrected before anyone tries to kill off the algae.

Just in case, hopefully you know you can't test pH accurately when the FC is over 10. That's why it needs to be adjusted before you start to SLAM or shock.
 
Just noticed you said today is the first day it isn't green. Then you're close to a cure and starting over now shouldn't be part of the solution IMHO since the CYA is good too.
 
Thanks! Draining and refilling is an option, but I'm afraid the same issues will present with the refill as we've had these issue from day 1. I've started trying to bring the PH up using sodium carbonate. Hopefully, I can get that adjusted today, get a good test kit by Tuesday and start over. I honestly don't want to drain and refill. It also costs a lot in terms of electricity and wear and tear on our deep well. I love the work the pool guy did to completely renovate our pool, but think I can get this water in line better than he can right now! Thanks for all your suggestions!
 
With a good test kit you should have no problems. Well none that we can't all solve together.
After all , , , it's just water. ;)
 

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Cindy, these folks here will walk you thru, step by step. Once you get your test kit, you'll be able to post your readings in here and use the pool calculator. Good luck!!! I have to do our pool too, and I ALWAYS come back for help here. I came home to algae last week, and it's gone. :party:
 
Please, take a little time and do some reading on our site. You are saying things that are "pool store/pool industry" quotes that have no real basis in pool care for a residential pool. The one that jumps out at me is "continue to shock until break through chlorination is achieved". Get the idea of "shocking" out of your mind. We do not "shock" our pools.

OK, so you have added multiple pounds of CalHypo.

CalHypo raises the calcium (we refer to it as CH) level of the water. When the CH gets too high it is very easy to have calcium scale form in your pool. Think of little stalagmites all over the floor or even the walls of the pool.

So, the testing numbers didn't list your CH level. But, you also didn't answer the question - Who is doing the testing and what are they using?

As you are ordering a TF-100 (good choice) I have to assume a "pool professional" has been testing the water. Not much credence is given to professional testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. We will wait for your testing to get "real" numbers.

For now I suggest -

*Tell the pool man he is correct, as he has given up his services are no longer required - you will fix the water

*No more granular shock

*Turn off the SWG, or at least turn it down to about 50% for now.

*Add one bottle (121oz/8.25%) generic bleach to the pool with the pump running each day until you get your test kit.

*Visit WalMart and purchase the bleach and an inexpensive 2 way test kit (about $8), mainly for the pH test. While there, also purchase several boxes of 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Please note, you do not want detergent, you want Borax Natural Laundry Booster. 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster is almost always less expensive than the sodium carbonate from the pool store. Secret is, it's the same stuff in different packages.

* Now, use Pool Math to calculate your pool volume.

*Before you add your bleach to the pool, test the chlorine and pH. If as you have said is true, the chlorine will read "0" and the pH will probably be off the bottom of the scale. If the chlorine reads anything higher than "0" stop and let us know before you continue with what I have below.

*Use the calculated volume in Pool Math to determine how much 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster to add to raise your pH from whatever your scale's lowest number is to 7.5 Use half that amount and add it to the pool by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return. Wait 30 minutes, test the pH and repeat until you get the pH around 7.5 Once there add your bleach for the day.

OK, still with me? Remember I said "continue to shock until break through chlorination is achieved" is pool industry speak? They feel throwing massive single doses of chlorine at a pool will break the back of an algae bloom. It might, be we have a better way - we call it a SLAM.

Read up on the the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School as that is the procedure you will be following once you have your test kit. We prove through testing that the algae is gone when:




  • CC is 0.5 or lower;
  • You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
  • The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

Questions?

- - - Updated - - -

How long do you wait after adding chlorine bleach to test for free chlorine?
Just long enough for the water to circulate it through the pool. 30 minutes is usually good.
 
I have to up my Borax as it's getting low and I found out that Walmart no longer carries it, at least not around here !! They used to have the best price. You might want to see if your local Walmart still has it.
 
Got it Tim! Thank you for your help. I'll get the Borax and let you know as soon as I get reliable test results! This is my first go around with a pool in 10 years so I'm a little rusty!
;)
plus, if my suggestions begin to make me sound overbearing just tell me so. My mind was running at 90 miles an hour - first on how to fix your pool and secondly on how a "professional" messes up a new fill....
 

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