South Florida Pool & Outdoor Living - STARTUP PHASE

Do you have to turn on the pump or does it just come out on it's own? OH and make sure there is no kink in the hose. Just read one what had a kink in the hose and it did some damage:shock:

:hug:

Yes it's while the pump is on. It's a backwash valve that redirects water from filter to an open pvc pipe. Here is a pic before they redid our pad, but it gives you an idea.

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How does the flow feel out of the returns?

The flow is fine. Maybe less pressure than normal but not significantly different. I'm still pulling a bunch of plaster rocks out of my pump basket so I'm concerned I may have some bigger obstruction. I just had my filter cleaned a few days ago. Could anything get stuck in the filter to immediately spike the pressure? I really don't want to take it apart again.
 
You should calculate the rpms and time needed to turn your water over and run the pump at that speed.

Looks like for recirculation you could run it at about 1200 for 5-6 hours a day and be good. 1200 rpm's should be between 55 and 60 gallons per minute.
 

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If that pressure jump (12 --> 30) were real, you'd have almost no flow out of the returns. I suspect something may be wrong with the pressure gauge. Sometimes debris can get lodged into it.

Does the gauge go all the way back to zero when the pump is off?

Who told you to run it at 3000rpm?? That a ridiculously high speed to run the pump at 24/7. For startup you are simply trying to filter the water which will happen at a lot lower speeds. Running the pump that hard makes no sense. If the PB told you to do that, oh well, but it's really just a huge waste of electricity.
 
If that pressure jump (12 --> 30) were real, you'd have almost no flow out of the returns. I suspect something may be wrong with the pressure gauge. Sometimes debris can get lodged into it.

Does the gauge go all the way back to zero when the pump is off?

Who told you to run it at 3000rpm?? That a ridiculously high speed to run the pump at 24/7. For startup you are simply trying to filter the water which will happen at a lot lower speeds. Running the pump that hard makes no sense. If the PB told you to do that, oh well, but it's really just a huge waste of electricity.

Yes it drops to zero when off. You may recall that our pool is plumbed for the spa spillover to be on at all times (not our preference). So perhaps that is why the recommendation was to keep the speed high. Not sure. On that point, we also used the spa bypass valve yesterday to turn off the spillover to clean our tile. Could that have anything to do with pressure changes? We put it back to spillover after cleaning.
 
Yes it drops to zero when off. You may recall that our pool is plumbed for the spa spillover to be on at all times (not our preference). So perhaps that is why the recommendation was to keep the speed high. Not sure. On that point, we also used the spa bypass valve yesterday to turn off the spillover to clean our tile. Could that have anything to do with pressure changes? We put it back to spillover after cleaning.

Yes, I seem to recall your rather wide spillway. That would take a lot of flow to run.

When you say you have a spa bypass, what does that do? Does it shutoff the water to your spa and redirect it all to the pool returns? If you try partially opening the spa bypass so that just a little bit of the water is redirected away from the spa, what happens to the pressure?
 
Question about your tile installation:

What color thinset did the installer use, white or grey?

What color grout did you select?

(We selected the same series of tiles.)

I'm not sure about the thinset used for the spa as I wasn't home when it got done. But when we refinished the pool, the marker tile got redone using white which is what I would recommend.

As for grout, we used a medium grey. It looks really nice dry but in hindsight I wish we went with a lighter grey or an off-white. The grout that gets wet gets real dark and contrasts with the dry grout. This may or may not matter to you depending on where you plan on installing it.
 
Yes, I seem to recall your rather wide spillway. That would take a lot of flow to run.

When you say you have a spa bypass, what does that do? Does it shutoff the water to your spa and redirect it all to the pool returns? If you try partially opening the spa bypass so that just a little bit of the water is redirected away from the spa, what happens to the pressure?

Yes it redirects water to pool returns and back through main drain without going to the spa. The pressure doesn't change when adjusting that valve.
 
Hi all! I hope everyone is having a great summer and enjoyed the 4th. From the looks of it, you did. It's been just about a month since my last post, we've been in "enjoy" mode with the pool here with our hot summer. Getting great use of the pool, mostly on the weekends. But it is still nice to look at at night. Chemistry and maintenance has been good and easy.

A couple of things I'd like to fix/improve though:

- our pressure is still real high (mid 20s). The pool return pressure seems normal but our spa return flow is certainly still weaker than originally (before refinish). PB insists that we need new cartridges, but that's going to set me back $250 so I haven't bit the bullet as that seemed suspect to me. One thing I noticed is that pressure drops considerably when I bypass the heater (from 25psi to 15). Should the heater loop be impacting pressure that much? Any other thoughts on what else to try? Maybe I can get the new cartridges and test it and if it doesn't address the issue, return them same day?

The other main thing I am fighting is high water temp. Our pool has been 93-94 consistently during the day. It's just a result of full sun from 9am-8pm. But I never thought it would get that warm. I've looked into the return sprinklers to cool the water overnight, but I don't have screw in returns, rather the push ins. Does anyone recommend any other solutions? I'd like to try more reasonable approaches before we look at something like a Glacier pool cooler - which I'm not ruling out given how warm the water is. Who would of thought I probably needed a cooler more than I needed a heater ;)

I've been keeping up with other threads, just haven't really posted. The only other pointer I could give 6 months in is to avoid glass tile under a spa spillover. I am dealing with similar, but different issues than Suz, but overall our spa face has become lackluster. I've tried everything to clean/restore with not much luck. The tile still looks fantastic for the markers and for all of the other sides of the spa that don't contact the spillover/splashing.
 
So glad it has been so easy and you are in enjoy mode! That is why you have a pool!

Pressure-heater-I really don't know but would love to learn. I suggest you start a new thread in the"everything else" so we can learn together. That is if no one answers here on this thread.

-Pressure-new cartridge-it is only 1 yr old! You should NOT need a new one this fast! Have you done any reading on cleaning it with TSP? Here is a link to it:

Re: How to clean a cartridge filter

Fountain idea:

Sparkling Standard 3-Tier Swimming Pool Fountain ─ In the Swim

Kim:kim:
 
South Florida Pool & Outdoor Living - STARTUP PHASE

TSP and acid washing your filters would probably help. They are likely loaded up with plaster dust. Since you got plastered twice, your cartridges got hit twice as hard. You might very well indeed need new cartridges if they can't be cleaned.
 

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