Armed with a kit now just need some knowledge

[Super B]

Ok the kit came in today. Very well put together and the instructions are almost spot on. Here are the numbers that I pulled.


Today right before the SWG ran and then After SWG cycle
FC 1.5 ------ 3 or 5.5

CC 1----- 7 or 9

Seems like the longer is stirred it would eventually turn a little pink again. I quit adding drops and figured I'd ask if I was doing it right. So is it as soon as it goes clear or stays clear? It would stay clear for a good 10-20 seconds and then start to turn pinkish again.

TC 3 ----- 12.5 or 14.5 depends on which of the above values you use

CH 50 ----- 50

TA 40 ----- 40 Turned dark pink never red

CYA 30 ----- 20 Not quite sure why it was lower the second time. Does the dot have to disappear or just be hard to see?

PH 7.2 ----- 7.2

Did do another salt test strip this afternoon and it was still the same as the first one a week ago and it's 2820ppm

So here's the run down of what's in the pool. Pool was started 19 days ago and the SWG was DOA (didn't know that until I went to turn it on for the first time after it was piped in and salt had be dissolved). As the instructions for the SWG called for 0.8lbs of CYA, I put it in a sock and had it in the skimmer to dissolve. Seeing how the original SWG was DOA I was using 10% bleach (12oz a day) until the replacement SWG came in. The new SWG has been running the last 7 days.

SWG is set for 3hrs a day and the pump I have set for 6hrs.

Water barely got cloudy on day 3 about the time I found the SWG was DOA and that's when I started using the bleach. Ever since then water has been clear. I've attached a pic for reference if that helps.

So now the million dollar question --- Where do I go from here?

Thank you in advance

 

[Patrick_B]

If the FC titration stays clear that long then it's done. Can you clarify the different numbers 3-5 or 7-9? And what do you mean by its almost spot on?

Up the Cya to 40-50 and maintain the FC according to the guidelines.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Super B,

How about running another set of tests for us.. Something is not right as you list your CC to be "CC 1----- 7 or 9". CC should be zero or close to it, so a 7 or 9 would be very high. Suggest you read the instructions again and see what you get.

Once you run the FC test, where the water first goes to clear, do not let it sit for more than a few seconds before running the CC test. If you let it sit too long, it will go back to pink on its own.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Super B]

If the FC titration stays clear that long then it's done. Can you clarify the different numbers 3-5 or 7-9? And what do you mean by its almost spot on?

Up the Cya to 40-50 and maintain the FC according to the guidelines.

Awesome sounds good. The two different numbers are what I'm not sure about. The first number is when the water went from pink to clear and stayed that way for about 20 seconds but then it would get a pink hue again and that's where the second number comes in, I kept adding drops till it would stay clearer longer but even then when the water was just sitting there before I dumped it (maybe a min or so) it had a pink tint again.

Directions were well written, don't get me wrong, very easy for a newbie to follow. Just not sure about the above and I didn't realize there was another clear container until I went to do the CYA test. Maybe in the directions it should say grab the other container. Again that's probably me just being brain dead and not fully pulling the kit apart to see what all was there before I started.

- - - Updated - - -

Super B,

How about running another set of tests for us.. Something is not right as you list your CC to be "CC 1----- 7 or 9". CC should be zero or close to it, so a 7 or 9 would be very high. Suggest you read the instructions again and see what you get.

Once you run the FC test, where the water first goes to clear, do not let it sit for more than a few seconds before running the CC test. If you let it sit too long, it will go back to pink on its own.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Ahhhh got ya that's what was throwing me off. Will do

Thanks

 

[Super B]

Ok sorry for the delay. Had to take a day off of the pool and get the nursery done before mama hung me by my toes.

Numbers tonight, to late to do CYA by the time I got home so it will have to been done tomorrow.

PH 7.2

FC 2.5

CC .5

TC 3

CH 75

TA 40

 

[Super B]

So poking around in Pool Math based off of the numbers I pulled tonight it looks like I need to add 11oz of 10% bleach to get the FC up from 2.5 to 5 and add 18oz of CYA to get it from 30 to 70 (course its been a couple of days since that test, will redo it tomorrow afternoon for an accurate number) Does that sound about right for the FC and CYA I know the CH and TA are still low but I figured I start somewhere.

 

[Super B]

Ok so I've been taking things slowly seeing how the water has been clear and nice.

Here are today's numbers
PH 7.2
FC 3.5
CC .5
TC 4
CH 50
TA 40
CYA 50 (Added 12oz of CYA on the 13th and numbers have held at 50 since the 15th)

So I know the CYA needs to get up to 70, I've just been taking baby steps. FC has increased as well during that time.

So where do I go from here, other than getting the CYA up to 70?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Looks like you are doing pretty good to me, but you really need to keep your FC up. Min is 3. Your target is 5. I'd get it up to 6 and try not to let it get below 4 to be on the safe side.

TA is a little low, but with a SWG I doubt it will take long to move up.

Jim R.

 

[Super B]

Looks like you are doing pretty good to me, but you really need to keep your FC up. Min is 3. Your target is 5. I'd get it up to 6 and try not to let it get below 4 to be on the safe side.

TA is a little low, but with a SWG I doubt it will take long to move up.

Jim R.

Ok sounds good. Thanks for the input. Do you think once I get the CYA up to the target 70 that the FC will continue to follow the increasing trend that it did when I got the CYA to 50? Should I be worried with the low CH? The TA hasn't budged from 40 since I started testing it a little over a week ago.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Super,

As the CYA increases your FC should not burn off so quickly.

Do you have any idea where your SWG's % of output is set? I see above that you run your pump 6 hours a day but your SWG only 3 hours a day. I would run the SWG for 6 hours a day and watch your FC. When your FC level starts to be greater than 6 ppm for a couple of days in a row, then you can dial back the SWG run time until it stabilizes somewhere around 6. In the "perfect" world, the pool would use say 3 ppm of FC each day, and your SWG would make 3 ppm FC. But of course, nothing is perfect...

Keep in mind when you are tying to set things up, and get a feel for your pool, you need to check FC at the same time, or times, to make sure you are comparing apples to apples.

I suggest we keep an eye on the pH and make sure it does not go below 7.2, but for right now I would not worry about your TA or CH.

Regards,

Jim R.

 

[Super B]

Super,

As the CYA increases your FC should not burn off so quickly.

Do you have any idea where your SWG's % of output is set? I see above that you run your pump 6 hours a day but your SWG only 3 hours a day. I would run the SWG for 6 hours a day and watch your FC. When your FC level starts to be greater than 6 ppm for a couple of days in a row, then you can dial back the SWG run time until it stabilizes somewhere around 6. In the "perfect" world, the pool would use say 3 ppm of FC each day, and your SWG would make 3 ppm FC. But of course, nothing is perfect...

Keep in mind when you are tying to set things up, and get a feel for your pool, you need to check FC at the same time, or times, to make sure you are comparing apples to apples.

I suggest we keep an eye on the pH and make sure it does not go below 7.2, but for right now I would not worry about your TA or CH.

Regards,

Jim R.

Ok, I got logged out right as I went to post but unable to find where it was saved so here we go again LOL.

The only thing I can find is in the manual and google hasn't been much help which is unusual for me. Maximum chlorine output/hour is 12 grams/hour. Not sure if that helps or not. The original set up times are based off the manual. For my size pool it says 3hrs of run time for the SWG and at least 1hr longer for the pump. The only reason I have the pump set for 6hrs is because we like to have it running while we are in the pool. I'll start playing with the settings tomorrow. I pulled my sock out to dry so I can add the other 8oz of CYA to get me to 70 (per pool school). I've been suspending it in the skimmer well, is that ok? Manual says no (just read that) but then again I'm going the TFP way so........

Sounds good on the TA and CH.

The PH has been rock solid on 7.2 since I've gotten the kit. Makes me wonder if I'm doing it right. Seems kinda hard to mess that one up but maybe I'm still in the box thinking.

I've been running my test around the same time everyday (within 30-60mins). Either right before the SWG and pump kicks on for their cycles and/or 30min/1hr after the cycle ends.

In the short history that I've been testing the water the FC has been 1.5 and after the 20ppm jump in CYA it's been 3.5.

I'll keep up the good fight and keep you posted. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Super B]

Ok ran the full test again today. Looking for some advise before it gets crazy. CYA tested at my target 70. FC is still 3.5 but it appears today for the first time the PH is dipping. It's not quite 6.8 and not quite 7.2 sooooooo..........

Pool Math is saying to add 11oz of Borax given my TA is still at 40, While I have no problem doing that the only thing is I didn't get the borate test strips. Probable shame on me for not getting them but call it the newbie curse if you will.

So I would like some insight/suggestions on how to proceed in getting the PH up with the TF100 kit if possible, I can order the borate strips if deemed necessary.

Also going to add an extra hr to the SWG tomorrow to see if that will up the FC number or do you think I should add some 10% and just get it there?

Sorry for all the questions, I really am trying to get a grasp on this. 28 days into pool ownership and still a ways to go.

 

[bmoreswim]

Add the bleach to bump it. No need to wait. Then you can easily monitor how the SWCG is doing at holding the FC stable.

 

[MarianParoo]

Arm and Hammer WASHING soda will raise your pH and TA.

 

[Super B]

Add the bleach to bump it. No need to wait. Then you can easily monitor how the SWCG is doing at holding the FC stable.

Will do tomorrow before the SWG kicks on. Pump is set for 30mins before. I usually pour right in front of the skimmer or straight into the skimmer.

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Arm and Hammer WASHING soda will raise your pH and TA.

Didn't know that even existed until now after I looked it up. Is that on pool math?

 

[pooldv]

More here on pool chems and how to use them, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[Super B]

More here on pool chems and how to use them, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Thank you, As many times as I have read that, I never picked up on the washing soda part. I guess my brain got stuck on borax and borax only. Thanks again. I'll pick up some soda ash tomorrow.

Now pool math is calling for 5.5oz to get me up to 7.5. Pool school says the best way is to dissolve it in water first and do basically just like liquid bleach and add it right in front of the skimmer, am I understanding that correctly?

 

[pooldv]

10-4

 

[MarianParoo]

We recommend adding bleach in front of a return rather than near or in the skimmer. Occasionally it's not the end of the world, but in the long run, it's not great for the equipment as the pH at full-ish strength isn't great for metal especially. Better to dilute it into the pool in front of a return.

 

[Super B]

I can't believe I'm actually going to ask this but for 100% accuracy your talking about where the water returns back into the pool? In front of the jet. Hate I have to ask that given my back ground but just want to be sure. And that should be done with all chemicals? And that brings up another question I've been meaning to ask. I have my jet set at an angle giving the pool a whirl pool effect if you will. Is that ok or should it point straight down?


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