I replaced my dead T-15 cell with a compatible Generic one from Pool Supply world on eBay. I took a water sample to Leslie's Pool Supply and they said that the salt level is actually 3100. No amount of resetting/recalibration is getting my generator to match up with their tests. Should I just let the pool run and wait for the salt to burn off? I was told that I have a 13000 gallon pool but I'm not sure how accurate that number is and that's the number I gave Leslie's. Is the high salt reading going to damage my new SWG?
New SWG installed, Aqua Rite salt level reads 3700
- Thread starter mebowling123
- Start date
1. As long as the salt cell will operate with that level of salt you will be fine.
2. Don't trust the pool store. Buy the kit and test it yourself. Monthly should be fine.
3. Salt doesn't "burn off." It will stay in the water indefinitely. The salt in the water can only be diluted. Typically this occurs via splash out, draining, etc.
2. Don't trust the pool store. Buy the kit and test it yourself. Monthly should be fine.
3. Salt doesn't "burn off." It will stay in the water indefinitely. The salt in the water can only be diluted. Typically this occurs via splash out, draining, etc.
Can you post all of the diagnostics?
I would recommend that you get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.
TFTestkits.net
Note that salinity tests are generally considered to be +/- 400 ppm. Therefore, you have a range of about 800 ppm that tests can differ and still be considered to be in agreement.
For example, your actual salinity might be 3,400 and one is reading 300 low and one is reading 300 high.
As long as your amps are below 8 and the correct T-cell is selected, you should just go with the box reading.
If your amps are near or above 8, you should do a partial drain and refill.
I would recommend that you get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.
TFTestkits.net
Note that salinity tests are generally considered to be +/- 400 ppm. Therefore, you have a range of about 800 ppm that tests can differ and still be considered to be in agreement.
For example, your actual salinity might be 3,400 and one is reading 300 low and one is reading 300 high.
As long as your amps are below 8 and the correct T-cell is selected, you should just go with the box reading.
If your amps are near or above 8, you should do a partial drain and refill.
Original #: 3700
1 push:95
2 push: 24.3
3 push: 7.35
4 push: 9 1P
5 push: -3500
6 push: AL -0
7 push: r 1.40
1 push:95
2 push: 24.3
3 push: 7.35
4 push: 9 1P
5 push: -3500
6 push: AL -0
7 push: r 1.40
The instant salt is reading 3,500 ppm. The amps are 7.35. I think that you should just trust the box for now and get the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit to see what that shows.
The water temperature is showing 95f. Is that accurate?
The percentage is showing 1%. I think that the lowest setting that you can go to is 5%. Is the 1 P accurate or a typo?
The water temperature is showing 95f. Is that accurate?
The percentage is showing 1%. I think that the lowest setting that you can go to is 5%. Is the 1 P accurate or a typo?
Yes, the temp is 95 (it's Dallas in August) and the output is actually 91% right now. There's just a space in my number above. I'll adjust it down to 70% when I get home. I've read that the Taylor is just as inaccurate as the pool store and test strips. Any better options for diy salt testing?
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
It is more important that your SWG is happy with its salt reading than the result of any test. 3500 or 3700 are both well within an acceptable salt reading for an AquaRite system.
The Taylor K-1766 is the kit I recommend for salt testing. It should be within about +/- 200 ppm when used carefully.
For salinity testing, it’s important not to get too focused on any one test but to look for averages and trends.
Your diagnostics look good. I would rely on the box reading. As long as the amps stay below 8, you’re good. If they get up near 8, do a partial drain and refill.
If you want a different test, you could get the MyronL UltraPen, but I don’t think that it’s worth the cost for your purposes, but that’s up to you.
Also, I didn’t think that the AquaRite could be set for 91%. I thought that above 10 %, it went in increments of 5%.
For salinity testing, it’s important not to get too focused on any one test but to look for averages and trends.
Your diagnostics look good. I would rely on the box reading. As long as the amps stay below 8, you’re good. If they get up near 8, do a partial drain and refill.
If you want a different test, you could get the MyronL UltraPen, but I don’t think that it’s worth the cost for your purposes, but that’s up to you.
Also, I didn’t think that the AquaRite could be set for 91%. I thought that above 10 %, it went in increments of 5%.
You can set it from 0-100% with the knob on the front and the led let's you dial it in to a specific value.
