Pump Plumbing

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C

cannelg

0
Jul 27, 2016
41
Wesley Chapel
Hi all,

This forum is great. I just joined and this is my first post. We have a pool in Florida. It was built in 2009. We've been through several T-Cells and a pump motor. Due to tile cracking all around the pool and the acrylic deck delaminating, we had the pool remodeled by a different company. (Although it killed me to remodel after only 7 years) (Pavers and Pebble Sheen with new tile) The wife wanted it and you know the rules...

Our pump seems fine - but in order to be prepared for when it will eventually need to be replaced again I thought I would start gathering info now so I can do it myself when the time comes. (I like DIY and try to do as much as possible) When the pump overheated and pretty much melted the pump lid basket a few years back (it was about 4 years old at the time) they came out and replaced the motor and various other parts but kept the same pump. I will attach pics but I am wondering - when the pump needs to be replaced (Haywood North Star 1.5 HP) how would the plumbing work? (See pics below) There is pretty much just a coupling between the Jandy valve and the pump. DO they make a fitting that goes around the coupling? How would you replumb this? Or - would I simply have to stick with a Haywood pump and hope that I can reuse the union?

Thanks :)

Greg
 
Welcome to TFP Greg :)

You can just reuse those unions if they pump is the same or just get new unions and install new pipe.. It really is easy to plumb in new fittings..

If changing pumps I would recommend a 2 speed or VS pump as they are way better and save you money running at a lower speed :)
 
You can actually cut between the valve and coupling and put a 2.5" coupling on the valve and then reduce down to 2". The challenge would be length of new pump because your so close to wall already. also the height of new pump intake compared to height of pipe going into pump now. I believe the Pentair Intelliflo or Whisperflo line up pretty good
 
Extremely tight installation seems to be a common practice. While I understand the desire to be frugal with space and materials, the idea that nothing will ever change nor will need to be changed is short sighted. Stuff WILL happen and repairs will be required. Then there is twice to four times as much work required to effect a rather simple change.
 
Thanks....so how interchangeable are pump unions? I am imagining I will have to change out the plumbing but is it set up so as long as I buy another Haywood pump it will work? Normal replumbing would be fine but since there is already a 2" coupling and that is all that there is between the jandy valve and the union I wasn't sure how to put a coupling on a coupling or if I would have to take it all out and do all of the suction lines and valves from the ground up again.

It really is a tight space but I would prefer to plumb it for future issues...just not sure how the best way is. ?


cowboycasey said:
Welcome to TFP Greg :)

You can just reuse those unions if they pump is the same or just get new unions and install new pipe.. It really is easy to plumb in new fittings..

If changing pumps I would recommend a 2 speed or VS pump as they are way better and save you money running at a lower speed :)
Click to expand...
 
OHHH....I see. The 2.5 Coupling goes OVER the valve. Thanks. Yes, that would make sense. Why does the union have to be high temp rated? (Just curious - like I said, I learning) Also, the Jandy Valves are PVC, right? So normal PVC primer and glue?


kadavis said:
The only pump that is going to line up with exsisting unions is another Northstar pump. These pumps are not very energy efficient compared to two speed or variable speed pumps. Again the valves except 2" inside and 2.5" outside. Use a 2.5" coupling with a 2" reducer into 2" Hi- temp unions threaded into pump.Praher UNION, 2 SLIP, HIGH TEMP (200-906) - INYOPools.com
Click to expand...
 
The high temp unions were designed to give you a union that threads into pump intake and discharge, that uses a o-ring to make the seal. If a pump runs dry for a long period of time regular fittings will heat up and get loose, then leak. If the new pump you choose has unions then you won't need them. The Jandy valves are cpvc and use primer and a suitable pvc glue
 
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