Am I reading the Pool Math wrong

[Hereinthe210]

In pool math the TA goal says 70-90+, but on the ABCs of Pool Chemistry it says 60-120+
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

I am at 60. Which range should I shoot for? 70-90 or 60-120?

FC 12
Cc .4
PH 7.3
TA 60
CH 350
CYA 65

A few of these are a little off. The CYA and CH can be corrected with a water replacement, but should I get the PH and TA in line first?


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[pooldv]

All of your numbers look good to me. Depending on what type of pool you have. Please add your pool info to your signature so that we can better help ylu. More here on what to out in your signature and how to do it, Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

 

[woodyp]

Yep. Leave your TA at 60 and see how well your Ph remains stable at that level. Works fine for me.

 

[Hereinthe210]

Is PH at 7.3 ok? Pool math says the goal is 7.5-7.8.

I am trying to change my signature in Tapatalk, but can't figure it out. I will try to log onto the main site and put in the specifics.

IG 12,000 gallons
Pentair Intelliflow 2
Plaster




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[woodyp]

7.2 is minimum.......You're good to go.

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[pooldv]

Open TFP in a browser, scroll to the bottom and select Full site.

 

[Hereinthe210]

Thanks, I got the dog set up.

 

[pooldv]

Thanks, I got the dog set up.

Good dog! LOL!

 

[Hereinthe210]

Good dog! LOL!

Dang autocorrect. Sig changes to sug, dug and dog depending on what mood Siri is in. Lol. Sug isn't even a word, but now that I wrote it twice it is in my dictionary.


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[JoyfulNoise]

Is PH at 7.3 ok? Pool math says the goal is 7.5-7.8.

7.2-7.8 is what is considered to be an acceptable range to be in for swimming comfort. Most pools, because of normal water alkalinity, cannot really stay below 7.5 for long periods of time without constant acid additions. So for many pool owners where rising pH is the normal behavior for a pool, being above 7.5 allows the pool to "hang" at that pH for long periods of time thus minimizing the need for acid additions.

For example, with my TA down at 60ppm (and my 50ppm borates), if I lower my pH to no less than 7.6 with acid additions, then my pH will tend to hang at 7.7 for well over 10-12 days. If I lower my pH to 7.2, it will consume a lot of TA and pop right back up to 7.6 in a few days. So it makes no sense for me to target a pH lower than 7.6 because all I will do is just add lots of acid to my pool and cause my TA to crash. It's better for me to just live between 7.6-7.8 and only have to make minimal acid additions.

There are pools that will experience falling pH but that is an uncommon problem and is generally found in areas where the fill water is very acidic and contains little natural alkalinity.

 

[Hereinthe210]

7.2-7.8 is what is considered to be an acceptable range to be in for swimming comfort. Most pools, because of normal water alkalinity, cannot really stay below 7.5 for long periods of time without constant acid additions. So for many pool owners where rising pH is the normal behavior for a pool, being above 7.5 allows the pool to "hang" at that pH for long periods of time thus minimizing the need for acid additions.

For example, with my TA down at 60ppm (and my 50ppm borates), if I lower my pH to no less than 7.6 with acid additions, then my pH will tend to hang at 7.7 for well over 10-12 days. If I lower my pH to 7.2, it will consume a lot of TA and pop right back up to 7.6 in a few days. So it makes no sense for me to target a pH lower than 7.6 because all I will do is just add lots of acid to my pool and cause my TA to crash. It's better for me to just live between 7.6-7.8 and only have to make minimal acid additions.

There are pools that will experience falling pH but that is an uncommon problem and is generally found in areas where the fill water is very acidic and contains little natural alkalinity.

Therein might be the answer to my question. I do not have a non-softened spigot. I just found this out by testing my water from the hose bib. I just tested it for CH and it showed none so my fill water is treated.


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