Newbie needs help

[tmadson]

I think I need to stop reading multiple diff things as there is so much conflicting info. So, I'm going to see if anyone can help me here. I tend to have an obsession trying to get things exact and I just need to understand general tolerances of the chemicals. I just had my water tested on 7/31 and here the results:
FAC - 8
TAC - 8
CYA - 80
TA - 80
PH - 7.2
The chlorinator has been turned to 1 since this test and it's not dropping. I have read that given my CYA is this high, my FAC needs to be high anyway and it's actually within range. It feels like it's too high when I swim. One place tells me it's too high and get it down another says it's right for the CYA level. Any thoughts on what is correct? I don't want to dwell over this for days but if I need to lower the chlorine, is that ok? I had a spa and that was easy but this seems to be a little more.
Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! One thing for sure ......don't use the chlorinator for pucks/tabs. Use regular liquid bleach only. Bleach won't increase your CYA. Your CYA is high for a non-SWG pool, but you are in AZ and your FC might like that protection. SO just continue to maintain the slightly elevated FC level as noted on the chart and you should be fine. Follow the levels listed on the Recommended Levels Chart and Chlorine/CYA Chart (links below) and you'll be fine for TFP management. If you look elsewhere for guidance, you'll get all scrambled in the head. Just about every pool industry representative has different recommendations.

Seeing as how you have self-proclaimed to be "obsessed" with perfection, I see you are testing with "test strips", so you're going to loose a few TFP "cool points" today. You really need to be testing with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Please consider adding one of those test kits to your arsenal and signature as well. Sooner the better for that new pool. I highly recommend the TF-100 - with Speed Stir!

Nice to have you with us.

 

[tmadson]

Touche on the test strips!! I didn't proclaim to be smart about it.. just obsessed. Yes, I agree. I need something else. Right now, I take it into Leslie's to get checked the real way. That's where the figures came from. So, you are saying don't use chlorine at all?? Why the heck do I have a fancy chlorinator? I've been through pool school and read pretty much everything. I see bleach is recommended but in place of tabs. I didn't get much education on the thing when the company was done. There is actually one more thing I have that isn't listed but I'm not sure what it is. It's right next to the chlorinator and it's a long thin thing that I was told doesn't need replaced for while. I think it's like purple or blue or something colorful.

Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

ha ha. But say, chlorine is your pool's best friend, just don't use pucks/tabs on a constant basis. They increase CYA! Using tabs/pucks while on vacation is fine. Regular bleach has no such side effects. As for Leslies ... well ... their testing is not much better than the strips I'm afraid. Incorrect lighting, temp employees, etc, all lead to testing failure. The proper test kit will serve you well I assure you.

As for the thing next to your chlorinator, maybe post a pics for us? Have you tried linking your photos from Photobucket? That's what many of us do here on TFP. Upload your pics to Photobucket (free), then copy & paste the IMG code for that pic from Photobucket to your TFP post. Works great.

Also, you can try going to the bottom of your quick reply post where it says “Go Advanced”, and then down to where it says “Manage Attachments”. It may let you upload them that way. They may show-up large because you can't adjust the size of the attachment, but it may work.

 

[Mr Bruce]

Welcome

Pool store testing is terribly unreliable, you really need a good test kit. Bleach is liquid chlorine.

I bet the long thin thing next to the chlorinator is adding metal to your pool (very bad).

 

[tmadson]

Here are the photos. The blue cartridge has little pebbles in it. It looks like in one pic, there is rust or something forming on the bottom. I guess I'm wondering if I need to panic or if my levels are ok given the CYA.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

[tmadson]

OH... and do I follow the plaster chart for using bleach? Thanks

 

[tmadson]

I have ordered the tf 100 but won't get it for about a week. Until then, I'm in strip land with Leslie's as an assist. My CYA looks like it's either still around 80 or it's higher.. can't tell. I'm in slight panic mode but FC looks to still be in the correct range for the CYA level. I can tell getting into it that something is off vs how it was just a few weeks ago. When I turn on the water fall or bubbler, the choline smell is intense for about 5 mins then goes away.
We have used the 3" tabs since day 1 since the pool company told us to. They offered pool service for 4 weeks then I chose to do it myself because the water rarely fluctuated. I switched brands right after the pool service stopped and that's when the CYA started climbing. The pool company said to keep the chlorinator about 2/3 full and keep the dial on 3. The pool guy kept turning it to 5. Based on what I've read and what everyone is saying about the 3" tabs - that's how I got here in the first place.

So, lay it on me.....
do I need to drain and refill and do switch to liquid bleach (that's a given) and just work with the chlorine level hoping the CYA comes down?
Does my fancy shmancy ozone thing have any effect at all on how I need to approach this? There is a line coming from a box on the wall that essentially feeds air to water after leaving the chlorinator area.
Do we know what the long stick looking thing is for and what do I need to do with it? scrap it?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Mr Bruce]

That Nature2 thing is adding metals. It should be removed. Just add 1/2 gallon of bleach a day until your test kit comes.

I can't tell what the pics are. You pool water should just go pool -> pump -> *filter -> pool. Not through any puck canisters, metal systems, etc.

*SWG optional.

 

[tmadson]

Here are pics from Photobucket that may work better. It's my entire system plus the pool. I have no idea what the Eclipse thing is for but it doesn't like I can disconnect it. It feeds to the piping after the chlorine bucket. If I'm doing this pasting thing wrong, let me know. Splash said to just copy/paste the IMG code from Photobucket so that's what I did here.
There are a lot so I made it public and this link should get you there.. let me know if it works. I'm new to Photobucket too... http://s346.photobucket.com/user/tmadson1/slideshow/Camera

it sounds like I need to do the following.. can you address each one?
Remove pucks asap and only use when needed..
Remove the long thing filled with little rocks as it may be adding metal. I would put the carriage that it comes in back in simply to fill the hole (see picture - right of chlorinator)
CYA - this is what I need the most help on - drain and refill? Or, manage chlorine with bleach and let CYA come down on it's own?

Thanks!!!

 

[Mr Bruce]

Remove pucks asap and only use when needed..
Yes.
Remove the long thing filled with little rocks as it may be adding metal. I would put the carriage that it comes in back in simply to fill the hole (see picture - right of chlorinator)
Yes.
CYA - this is what I need the most help on - drain and refill? Or, manage chlorine with bleach and let CYA come down on it's own?
That's what we need the test for, you live in AZ so high CYA isn't a terrible thing. But we need a number we can be confident in and that only comes from a quality test kit.

 

[jeffchap]

If your CYA does indeed turn out to be 80, that's not necessarily a bad thing in a hot, sunny climate. CYA protects your chlorine from being burned off by the sun. Many of us with salt water chlorine generators intentionally keep our CYA that high.



Yes, you have to keep your FC higher as well, but once your reach the proper level, you should not need to add as much each day to keep it there.



The only time high CYA becomes a problem is when you have to SLAM your pool (our version of an extended shock). That's because with high CYA, your shock level is correspondingly higher and can require copious amounts of chlorine bleach to achieve and maintain, and that can get expensive.



But as long as you don't allow an algae bloom to get started, high CYA isn't really a big problem.

 

[jeffchap]

I should add that what I said is only true as long as you're not continuing to raise your CYA. Most solid forms of chlorine such as tablets and granules will add CYA, and eventually you will reach a level that requires an unsustainable amount of FC. But anything under 100 ppm is manageable.

The minimum FC level to prevent algae is considered to be 7% of your CYA. So for 80, you should not allow your FC to fall below 6 ppm. 9 would be a good target for you.

 

[tmadson]

You all rock!!! I have lost sleep over this stuff... no kidding. You make it sound so much easier and I wish I would have done this homework before I finalized the deal. I could have saved on a few items I didn't need. I'll head to Leslie's and get fresh numbers.. it's better than the strip... and repost.

I forgot to add this line item.. I would imagine the Eclipse ozone thing on the wall is harmless and can be used with the bleach method?

Thanks all....

 

[kcindc]

Bleach is chlorine, so there isn't anything to worry about the Ozone... Ozone generators generally aren't needed in residential pools. Just another expensive upsell.

Here is a deep end article: Ozone Claims

You would have saved money, hassle and stains if you purchased a SWG instead of the ozone and the Nature 2. I made a similar mistake and purchased a Nature 2. Here is how I removed the metal balls: How to Remove Metal Balls from Nature 2 Fusion

I tossed bleach for a few years and just converted to a SWG this year... one of the best decisions I've made. Of course finding this website and getting a TF-100 were the best decisions, but getting the SWG is right behind those two.