Hayward/Goldline Pro-Logic panel schematic? No power to display!

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M

mart242

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May 3, 2010
153
Ottawa, ON, Canada
My PL-P-4 panel died overnight. No power to the display and from what I was able to gather from this https://www.hayward-pool.ca/pdf/manuals/2014-ProLogic-4.45v2-TSG.pdf my 24V AC is fine, 120V AC supply to the panel is fine, fuses aren't blown however there is no DC voltage between pin 1 and pin 3 of connector to display (step M of the link above).

Unfortunately, their solution for "no voltage to display" is to replace the control board and I'd rather avoid this if it's a simple component that I can replace (like on the aqua logic where the varistor breaks and for $10 you replace it and are good to go for a few years).

Does anyone have a schematic of the panel? I'm really navigating in the dark trying to identify where the problem is. :confused: I'm thinking that it might be the varistor (the red one, bottom right corner in picture on page 2) but I'm not sure what it feeds exactly and there was no thunderstorm last night so a power spike is unlikely (and nothing else blew out in the house). Plus, visually, everything looks good. No burnt solder anywhere.

Thanks!
 
I don't have a schematic but I do have a few ideas that you can check.

So everything checked out ok to step m include 24 vdc (step 1F)?

Did you turn over the board and check the solder joints under the k1 relay (upper right)?

The k1 relay has been know to fail as well and you can get new ones on ebay. You should be able check the leads of the relay to see if it is allowing power to the rest of the board. Also, you can trace the power from the red and black leads (upper right) towards the display to see where it is interrupted.

Also, there is a transformer below the k1 relay that I believe is used to power the display board. You can trace the output of that through the rectifier to see if power is being interrupted their.
 
I did not see anything burnt anywhere, including the backside. I doubt that the issue would be with the relay K! however since my problem is with the display panel, it does not get any power. I would be surprised if this was controlled by the display panel.

Do you know where the 10V DC power for the panel comes from?
It seems to be a separate circuitry from the 24V DC used by the salt cell. The 24V DC rectifiers are only turned on when the salt cell is active according to the debug guide posted above where it says to measure 24V AC on the orange leads only when the chlorinator is in an "on" cycle"). There is no 24V AC going to them which I'm guessing would go through the relay K1 which apparently blows frequently. On the other hand, if I look at what is connected to the cell connector it's the other two large relays, not K1.

So if the display is indeed powered from the 24V DC, it means that the problem is with the fact that there is no 24V AC going to the rectifiers. Man I wish that I had the schematic!



Rossterman: I'm in Canada so it's not worth sending the board to the repair guy in california.
 
As I mentioned before, I believe the small transformer right below the K1 relay (or perhaps the one in the middle of the board on the bottom) is for the powering the display. You should be able to trace the path from there.
 
Did some more troubleshooting today, from what I see there is no DC voltage whatsoever on the board. No DC voltage on the board that I could find, nothing to the latched drivers as well (U4/U5).

If I disconnect the two external rectifiers outputs, I measure ~6V AC on the orange terminals but as soon as they are connected I don' t measure anything. From what I see on the board, one of them is on the path after the relay K6 which is controlled by a 24V DC signal. K1 seems to be the source of power to the display panel but this one as well is controlled by a 24V DC signal which is alway 0V. So there is definitely another source of DC voltage somewhere on the board... No luck finding it. Most of the chips are difficult to read because they've been covered in some kind of sealant so that makes it even worse.

I also probed the medium size yellow transformer under K1 and couldn't see anything that made sense. Two pins are definitely connected to ground but when powered up and measuring all pins permutation possible, I measure stuff that doesn't make sense (~60V AC and ~160V DC).

All relays have been checked and are nominal, ie: there is continuity in the path when the core is not powered.

Getting closer and closer to calling it quits and buying a board. but I'm sure that it's a $2 component that crapped out.
 
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