Raypak keypad/decale needs to be replaced every year

Water_man

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2008
390
Brookline, MA
My Raypak electronic ignition heater has a liquid crystal keypad/decale which needs to be replaced every year. The digits just stop showing. Ordering the part on line is not an issue, other than the expense, but doing it and reinstalling it every year is a PITA.

The heater is exposed to the elements. Will a rain cover help?

This is the keypad as it shows in the heater. It's Raypak part # 009184F.

3583462240_55c6b27bee.jpg
 
It is supposed to provide its own seal because it is mounted flush on the glass plate with the adhesive back, although you can see from the pic that it's peeling at the edges. I think a silicon seal is a good idea. Do you mean silicone caulking? Please be more specific. Thank you.
 
Thank you, spishex. I figured one of the pros will come up with the right answer. It's great to have you guys here.
I'm upset with Raypak for what looks like a design flow. I expect the next thing to go bad is the electronic board. It comes with a newly designed temp sensor. It's still less expensive than buying a new heater.
What else can go wrong in this machine?
 
How many parts does it have? :-D

Heaters (and hot tubs for the same reasons) are very susceptible to problems because they're made to not work. For safety reasons, the absolute last thing it wants to do is ignite. There has to be good water pressure, a demand for heat, no excess heat around the inlet/outlet pipes, no heat in the cabinet, etc. just to be able to think about coming on. Each one of those issues is a sensor that can go bad.

Then there's the mechanics of the thing: ignitor, flame sensors, water flow, etc.

There's a lot that can go wrong. But in general, Raypak makes a good heater. It might be worth a call in to them to see if they have anything to add about the failing panel. It could be that they have a common issue with that unit. Maybe bad power from the transformer or something.
 
Opened the display assembly. The keypad/decale is OK, but the LCD display of the temps is so-so. There's a transparent plastic sheet on top of the display facing outside and it's a bit loose. The set up temp can be read, so is the Mode, but the actual water temp is not so clear. It’s more of a cosmetic issue than functional. I guess the only way to take care of that is to replace the entire board for about $300, right?
 
I just did the PC board replacement for a Raypak RP2100. The LCD went kaput, but my heater was still firing up and running OK, just would not heat over 85 deg (I think it was stuck in "pool" mode).

Replacing the PC board was a pretty straightforward process, and better yet, it worked perfectly on the first try. Similar to putting a video card into a PC, this repair took about an hour. The cost was $280+tax (ouch!) at Pool Supply World (fast delivery!). The instructions are very detailed and include photos. The replacement kit includes a gasket for the LCD which sticks to the back side of the switch panel and should better seal (?!?) the LCD from the elements.

I've seen other online references to LCD problems with Raypak heaters. Their tag line should be "Heaters with a brain but poor vision" :)

Anyone out there want an old Raypak RP2100 PC board (with bad LCD), temperature sensor, and ignition module for the cost of shipping?

-Tom
 
I had a display break on a customer, but it appeared to be from the sun baking the display all day. The newer models have a flip down plastic lid that protects the display. Could this be an issue with UV light damage? If you think it might be you can probably just cover the display to protect it from the sun.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I have a Raypak heater, and had the same problem.
When I looked on the internet, the display/controller were pretty expensive.
The first time it broke, it was under warranty. It lasted a couple years after that, then broke again last year. Everything worked but the display, so I ended up installing the "iwave" system. Its a wireless remote, and a controller that connects to a special timer, and to the heater. You also need to add a special thermostat, which installs in pipes before the heater.

This new system works fine. The iwave system was more then a new heater control/display module, but its much more convenient to have a remote to set and check the pool temp, and if the display broke again, I would be even, or a little ahead.

Randy
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.