New Liner - New Water, Where to go from here?

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C

Catfish Jimmy

0
Jul 30, 2016
46
East TN
Hello all!
I am fairly new to pools. We purchased our home in 2013 which came with the pool. Up till now, I just followed the previous homeowners advice the past two years and added pool shock when needed to clear the water and kept the floater filled with pucks.

We just installed a new liner ourselves, got the water topped off, all the upper faceplates installed/cutout last night.

We are wanting to follow the TFP method now and I am curious as to how I should proceed from here?!?! I do not have a test kit in hand but I have ordered the TF-100 and a speed stir moments ago.

Should I start my pump and have it circulating the water?
I have 3 bags of 68% Cal-hypo shock left, should i dilute that and pour it in until I know my levels?
I also have about 20 3" pucks left, they are tricolor-s-triazinetrone...99%.

My family is screaming to get in and swim, is it ok for them to do this, since it is just tap water at this time? Will this hender my balancing efforts later?

I have spent several hours reading over the pool school section and the other recommended reading sections and learn more ever time I re-read it.

Thank you in advanced for any help offered.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum. :wave:

Everything will really get started when you get your test kit (likely Wednesday)

Until you get your kit and can post some precise numbers, please put 1 gal of Clorox in the pool each evening after you swim. You will have good use for the pucks and Cal Hypo later, don't use them right now.

Meanwhile, go swimming (nice pool!)
 
Ok, TF-100 arrived yesterday. I work a 24 hour shift so couldn't start until today. I have read so much on here since my last post and gained so much knowledge but still have so far to go before I feel like I have a good grasp of things. I have completed my testings this morning and will post them too. Just a quick overview. I installed a new liner and filled the pool. I used all new faceplates and gaskets except for the stair faceplates which i reused because I didn't want to have to drill new holes in my existing fiberglass steps. I have been adding 1 gallon of Great Value brand bleach 8.25% every night, aside from last night, and had the pump running for approx 8 hrs through the night.

My numbers are as follows:
FC 0
PH 7.8 The best I could tell, I will post a pic and hopefully someone can help me verify that.
TA 120
CH 125
CYA 0? The dot was clear to the top of the cylinder
Water Temp 86

I feel pretty confident that all the test were done accurately. I followed each step to the letter and even retook some test to make sure they were precise.

Here is the pic of the PH


Here is the pics of what the pool/water looks like.



The water looks awesome from a newbies eyes. However, I know my balance is off. I have plugged some of my numbers in to pool math and for the FC with a goal of 6 it looks like I need to add 237 oz of 8.25% bleach. Also, with CYA not being present and a goal of 40, it states that I need to add 149 oz by volume of CYA. I believe that CYA goal needs to be achieved in increments so as not to go over due to it being harder to lower than raise. I have granular CYA.

As stated I have read so much stuff over the past few days and its all starting to run together. I believe that I need to get my CYA to goal and my FC first. If this is the case, I would love to have some guidance as to which steps are first.

1. Which test should I be concerned with getting to goal first?
2. Can I work on my CYA and FC goals at the same time?
3. Are there any tricks of the trade for measuring large amounts of chemicals that doesn't stated oz on the package? i.e. The bleach comes in 121 fl oz containers so that would be fairly easy to do however the CYA just states 4 lbs. How do most people measure that?

I just wanted to thank you all for all the information that is on this site.
 
Chlorine is #1... get that in yesterday
Cya is easy... Fill up a tube sock with the required amount, hang in front of your return and let is disperse. You can squeeze the sock every so often to help it along. I would shoot for about 37. That will give you some wiggle room just in case the numbers are off. You can work both at the same time. CYA will take up to 48 hours to register on the test but you can assume what it will be for FC testing purposes until it show up. Just follow pool math...

You can measure by weight or volume.. Weight, use a scale minus the weight of the apparatus you are using to contain the stabilizer. Volume. measuring cups work best. If you hover over the "Add XXX by weight "bar in pool math, it will tell you how much up top
 
1. Your pH is just a touch high so I would use PoolMath and calculate a dosage to lower it from 7.9 down to 7.5.

2. Next, I would calculate enough dosage to get to 30 ppm CYA. If you do the math and dose accordingly, your CYA will come out spot on. Since you have calculated so carefully, no need to retest for a few days, also giving it time to dissolve

3. Next take your chlorine from 0 to 4 ppm using pool math again.

4. You can do all these thing one right after another.

5. You have some leeway on all your chemistry. For example, if PoolMatch call for 50 oz of FC, your best guess at 1/2 jug of Clorox is just fine. Be close as common sense tells you but don't agonize over percentage points in variation.

(Giving good advice is s-o-o-o easy with good test results! Thanks!)
 
Catfish Jimmy said:
3. Are there any tricks of the trade for measuring large amounts of chemicals that doesn't stated oz on the package? i.e. The bleach comes in 121 fl oz containers so that would be fairly easy to do however the CYA just states 4 lbs. How do most people measure that?
Click to expand...
I was playing around in pool math and just answered my own question. I see where you can mouse over the results and it will calculate the measuring amounts for you.
 
With my CYA being 0 pool math suggest adding 6 lbs 11 oz of CYA. Im not sure I have a tube sock that big, LOL. I also only have a 4 lb bottle. Is it ok to just add this one tube sock at a time, until i can go back out to the store and get more?
 

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Catfish Jimmy said:
With my CYA being 0 pool math suggest adding 6 lbs 11 oz of CYA. Im not sure I have a tube sock that big, LOL. I also only have a 4 lb bottle. Is it ok to just add this one tube sock at a time, until i can go back out to the store and get more?
Click to expand...

When I've had to add 4lbs, I just fill the sock with 2lbs, dissolve it, then load it again.

Your water looks spectacular even though it's off a bit on chemistry, except for the first photo that shows the water reflection
the other photos look like the pool is empty!!! that's as clear as water gets haha.
 
cj3737 said:
What does it say your target will be if you add only 4lb?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how to calculate that?!? I looked at the bottom of pool math in the effects of adding chemicals section but I didn't see an option for CYA.

Im on the way to the big box store to get some Muratic acid and a breaker I just noticed needed replacing.

- - - Updated - - -

Chlorine and 4 lbs of CYA are now in and being circulated.
 
Be careful when handling the Muriatic Acid. Wear protective eye gear, clothing and gloves, and don't breathe in the fumes.
Some folks say to pour downwind, but I just simply hold my breath when first pouring out of the jug (wind direction can change suddenly). Extra care must be used if pouring into a vinyl covered pool. My method is to mix 16oz. per five gallon bucket of water and then pour slowly over the return jet at the deep end, then immediately follow with a thorough brushing of the bottom and sides of the pool. I have found that over the years this method of application of chemicals to my pool has helped to preserve and extend the life of the liner. In addition, brushing your pool regularly will help keep the incidence of algae growth to a minimum while helping keep you pool clean and sparkling.
 
I added chlorine and CYA as suggested on pool math and went to the store to p/u more CYA, Chlorine and Muratic acid.
I retested at 17:30. Those results were:
FC 1.5 I assume because the CYA hadn't fully taken affect and it was a bright sunny day.
pH 7.2 Not sure what happened here for this to lower but the shading was spot on 7.2. Any ideas?
TA 120
CH 125
CYA ~20 The dot was still visible around 20 but it was pretty hazy when completely filled

I added the suggested amount of chlorine to bring me up to a FC level of 4 and retested at 18:30. My FC level was at 4 at that time.

I just completed another round of test, excluding the CYA due to the sun being down. This test was done at 21:30.
FC 3.5
pH 7.5 Again, not sure why this number seems to be fluctuating but I am really confident this was the shading it corresponded to.
TA 120
CH 125

I wished I had taken a pic of these 2 pH readings. So you could see and verify these were the numbers.

Here are a few ?'s i have if anyone wouldn't mind helping me out.

1. Any clue why my pH would be fluctuating like that?
2. I feel like my FC is doing pretty good and following the pattern it should with the CYA in the stages it was. Am I wrong?
3. Should I worry about my TA? I thought with it being a little higher, my pH would jump around like it is.

Thank you guys so much for your help.

- - - Updated - - -

nottooslow said:
good looking liner. ;)
Click to expand...
Cool! LOL My wife picked it out.
 
I would call that 7.4.

pH doesn't fluctuate like that. It can trend one way or another over a period of days but is does not perform like you are describing. I have no explanation for what you are seeing.
 
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