Aqua rite t-15 swg stopped making chlorine. All lights were off. Unit is 8 years old. When starting up, no flow light flashes for 45 sec, the generating sanitizer turns on for 10 sec, then all off. Before I read about the known issue with the current limiting varistor, I ordered a new pcb. I installed it and it still does exactly the same thing as the old board. Anyone have any ideas? Btw, the current limiter on the old board does look bad. Could the one on the brand new board also be bad?
Aqua rite problem- no power light
- Thread starter powell
- Start date
It could be, do you have equipment and ability to make voltage readings on the board?
You might want to replace the limiter on the old board and try that one afterwards.
You might want to replace the limiter on the old board and try that one afterwards.
I ordered some voltage limiters from digikey and plan to put a new one on the old board. Will let you know.
- - - Updated - - -
Diagnostics are
2800
62
14.7
0.00
24P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15
- - - Updated - - -
Diagnostics are
2800
62
14.7
0.00
24P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15
Is your supply voltage 120 or 240?
The low voltage is usually indicative of a bad current limiter. If the new board came with a defect, you should return it for replacement.
The other thing that can cause low voltage is 120 supply but a board configured for 240. New boards come configured for 240. If the supply is 120, you need to change the jumpers as shown on the inside of the front door.
Since the voltage is almost exactly half of what it should be and it's a new board, I suspect that the second option is the most likely. If the power wires are black and white, then it's probably 120. Check the jumper configuration of the old board.
The low voltage is usually indicative of a bad current limiter. If the new board came with a defect, you should return it for replacement.
The other thing that can cause low voltage is 120 supply but a board configured for 240. New boards come configured for 240. If the supply is 120, you need to change the jumpers as shown on the inside of the front door.
Since the voltage is almost exactly half of what it should be and it's a new board, I suspect that the second option is the most likely. If the power wires are black and white, then it's probably 120. Check the jumper configuration of the old board.
JamesW, you were right on. Thank you so much. It was wired 120 so I switched the jumpers and now all is good.
I plan on putting a new current limiter on the old board to keep as a spare.
I plan on putting a new current limiter on the old board to keep as a spare.
