Cc readings make no sense

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RESISTENCIA13

Well-known member
May 21, 2015
157
Scotch Plains, NJ
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 700
Hello all!

Once again, I am seeking guidance as pool water reading make no sense. My current readings are as follows:

Temperature 85
FC 9 I know is a bit high. My SWG was at 65 % due to heat wave in past weeks, I increased production a bit. Now is off until FC get back down
CC 0.5 Shall not be this high as my FC has never dropped below 2 PPM
TA 70
CH 400 Seems to keep going up depiste rain water and every three week back washes
CYA 70 so I think as the dot is obscure, but I can always see it. Based on Stabilizer added and rain/bashwash, etc it seems about right.

My CC shall not be 0.5 if my FC has always been not less than 2PPM (not longer than a day) as I check my water daily. Also my CH is concerning as just 1 week ago it was 375 and since we had rain water a few times, so it shall have decrease CH not increase. Please advice.
 
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Your FC isn't alarming, it's more than target but that's not necessarily a problem.

Having CC show up just means the chlorine is "working" on something, keeping FC above a certain number doesn't guarantee you'll never test > 0 CC.

I'd chalk the CH up to testing error. You are fine at 375-400, no need to worry.

How does the water look? Is there a specific reason you are concerned?
 
Also if you let the solution sit too long before adding the drops, it will turn pink. So, it's best to have the bottle (I can't remember the number-R-0003?) ready to add the drops as soon as you finish the chlorine test.
 
I am not worry about the FC, just mentioned as I though when you have CC above .5 you need to shock the water and my believe based on other users comments was that as long as your FC does not drop below 2PPM you will not need to worry about shocking the water. I add the drops within seconds and mixing is not an issue neither as I use a speedstir. My concern is the CC? I don't like to shock my pool as it means I cannot use it for days.
 
RESISTENCIA13 said:
I am not worry about the FC, just mentioned as I though when you have CC above .5 you need to shock the water and my believe based on other users comments was that as long as your FC does not drop below 2PPM you will not need to worry about shocking the water. I add the drops within seconds and mixing is not an issue neither as I use a speedstir. My concern is the CC? I don't like to shock my pool as it means I cannot use it for days.
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I think you may be confusing bits and pieces from different threads. To clear us some of your confusion-

In the TFP system there is no 2ppm "floor" of FC. FC is always maintained as a ratio to the CYA in the water using this chart [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Most pools will have CC from time to time. As has been pointed out, CC is indicative of the chlorine in the water doing its job. It is when the CC rises to high levels or never goes away that we begin to wonder why. The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is the way to determine if you have organics in your water that need to be dealt with.

We never "shock" our pools. If the FC is maintained in the proper ratio to FC there is no need. When there is a problem we follow the SLAM Process
 
Your water tests look fine to me as well. Unrelated, but do some research here on alternative sanitizers so you gain an understanding of the risks with the fusion soft chlorinator. Is this a new pool? If so, there may be some sequestrants floating around protecting you, but be sure your metals don't get very high.
 

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My pool is 2 years old.


needsajet said:
Your water tests look fine to me as well. Unrelated, but do some research here on alternative sanitizers so you gain an understanding of the risks with the fusion soft chlorinator. Is this a new pool? If so, there may be some sequestrants floating around protecting you, but be sure your metals don't get very high.
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- - - Updated - - -

If I do that then it read below 50PPM, which is impossible based on pool store reading (I did it only to cross check with my own results) and the amount of stabilizer I had added so far. I will be ordering the CYA standard 50/50 solution to get an idea of when the dot is really gone.....As it's a not clear to me when the done is gone....Some people in the past has stated obscured not really gone as technically you kind always can see the dot if you really try.




heikejohn said:
Are you sure it's 70? If you can still see the dot, it's lower than 70. Add solution until you can not see the dot anymore.
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Then just a heads-up to check your copper level. Pool stores will usually do the test for you. Don't buy anything they recommend. Just let us know and a metals expert here will tell you if it's getting high enough to worry about, and what might be the best course of action.

Copper from the fusion soft can accumulate in your water and lead to staining or green hair. In the meantime, consider removing the copper electrode. It's not helping your pool and leads to risks you can avoid. You can search in the upper right search box and find information about removing it. If the electrode is already consumed, that works to stop it from putting any more copper in the water.
 
So far the pool store testing has not shown any metals. What is the electrode? Are you referring to the fusion soft cartridge that was supposed to replace every 6 months? If so, I removed it as per recommendations on these forum.



needsajet said:
Then just a heads-up to check your copper level. Pool stores will usually do the test for you. Don't buy anything they recommend. Just let us know and a metals expert here will tell you if it's getting high enough to worry about, and what might be the best course of action.

Copper from the fusion soft can accumulate in your water and lead to staining or green hair. In the meantime, consider removing the copper electrode. It's not helping your pool and leads to risks you can avoid. You can search in the upper right search box and find information about removing it. If the electrode is already consumed, that works to stop it from putting any more copper in the water.
Click to expand...
 
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