New to Pool maintenance still trying to Clear up Cloudy water...

Jump to latest Follow Reply
EssieMae

EssieMae

0
Jul 29, 2016
16
Concord, North Carolina
Hi, I would really like some pointers and advice to know if I am or am not doing everything as I should:). I am going to try to explain some of what I have been doing and I hope I make sense. If not please let me know so I can. Sorry if I ramble.. sooo many questions..

I know it is late in the season but I am determined to get it crystal clear for my young'ns to get to swim in at least a few times this year. Also maybe I can have better control of it for next year this way. But I guess what I want to know is if I am doing the right things and if so, I know it can take awhile but
1):confused:HOW LONG IS IT GOING TO TAKE MY SAND FILTER TO CLEAR MY POOL??? (It's terrible I know but I have been so excited and getting very impatient --I have always wanted an IG pool and now I would like to get to enjoy it with our children! :D)

Here is what I have done (best I can remember from my notes).
We have scooped the bottom with a leaf rake and gotten as much debris from the bottom as we could find.
The pool chemistry has been steadily tested and maintained at normal/ideal levels since 7/22 (that includes Chlorine, PH, Alkalinity)
I have been using the bbb method (minus the bleach at first- the exception of also using Trichlor tablets and granules (XtraBlue 3"Long-lasting chlorinating tablets and XtraBlue All-in-one chlorinating granules, to be exact). We were doing small shocks 1-2 pds every other day or so, then I realized I probably wasn't reaching the breaking point so..
7/24 I super chlorinated (slammed as I guess you would say) with bleach to what the pool calculator said would up it to 30ppm (my test kit doesn't go over 5ppm; btw I know I need a better kit, I have heard a lot about the K-2006 so 2):confused:WHICH TEST KIT DO YA'LL RECOMMEND??)
The pool color has drastically improved since superchlorination too.
3):confused:HOW LONG DO I NEED TO MAINTAIN SLAM LEVELS? (the entire time until the water is clear or do I just need to maintain "ideal" chlorine levels now???)
We have been filtering 24 hrs/d since 7/22...but 7/25 started our best filtering day from there out. I have always backwashed as necessary (when psi reach 7-10 over normal). 7/25 I also started adding Clarifier (clorox pool & spa Super water Clarifier). I have added 4.5 ozs 3 different times, as the bottle says you may reapply after 36 hrs if water is still not clear. It has drastically improved the filtering because now I see chocolate milk colored water while backwashing and it was never that dark before. 4):confused:DOES CLARIFIER DISSIPATE OVER TIME? SHOULD I BE ADDING MORE OR KEEP ADDING MORE EVERY 36 HRS OR AM I ADDING IT TOO OFTEN???? I know too much can continue cloudy water but I really don't think it is the case with this one but idk, I jus know it is helping improve the sand filtering.
I have been using my 5 way test kit every day, but on 7/27 I did buy a sample strip kit test to get an idea of the cya levels (yes I know they can be not as accurate). All other results matched what I have been getting with my normal testing. The strip results were
Total Hardness: 250
Total Chlorine: 10
Free Chlorine: 10
PH: 6.8 (I also added borax and got this back ideal)
Total Alkalinity: 120
Stabilizer: 50
Now on to my next question/concern. I know I need to invest in a better kit, but as of right now I would like to know if I am understanding chlorine results right on my current kit. I can read FC (up to 5ppm, then I have to guess from there) but I get confused with what it calls the Combined Chlorine reading. I guess I am not getting a TC reading. It says the "chlorine residual can exist as free (active) chlorine and/or combined (less effective) chlorine". To test, it says Within 2-3 seconds you can read the FC levels,and Wait 1-2 minutes to determine the CC "chlorine residual" as it calls it. 5):confused:IS THERE A WAY TO GET TOTAL CHLORINE READINGS FROM THIS?) Also, almost EVERYTIME I test the FC and CC readings are almost identical...:confused:IS THAT WHAT I WANT TO SEE OR IS THAT A PROBLEM????
So anyway...
On 7/28 I tested with 5 way
FC-4 ish
CC-4 ish
PH-7.4
ALK-100
My husband threw in some granules that night. (like I said, we don't know if the chlorine concentration should be higher while in the clearing process)
Tested again 7/29
FC-orangy-red (way above 5ppm)
CC-same as FC
PH-7.4
ALK-100

I do attempt to brush the pool every other day or so (its a little hard to tell how good when I can't see the bottom:-|).

:confused:Am I doing everything right/ok?? It seems to be slowly getting better, so is it just a waiting game or is there something I can do to speed up the cloudy water clearing process??? (Wish there was a magical process to instantly clear the water;))

OMG I just previewed this and saw how much I wrote!!:eek: I know this is probably a lot of un-needed, jumbled information:lol:, but if anyone would dare jump into it and give me some advice I would Appreciate it SO MUCH.

Thanks Jessica
 
EssieMae said:
.. sooo many questions..I'm going to try to answer as many as I can by inserting into your post my input,'k?

I know it is late in the season but I am determined to get it crystal clear for my young'ns to get to swim in at least a few times this year. Also maybe I can have better control of it for next year this way. Absolutely it should simplify things for next year. Will you be "closing" your pool over the winter or keeping it "open"?

But I guess what I want to know is if I am doing the right things and if so, I know it can take awhile but
1):confused:HOW LONG IS IT GOING TO TAKE MY SAND FILTER TO CLEAR MY POOL??? That depends on if the filter is ONLY filtering out dead algae, or is it having to deal with a constant level of reproducing algae....? During a SLAM the more often you test and re-dose to being the FC up to your SLAM level the faster it goes. Down the road towards the end of the SLAM we often suggest the addition of a little bit of DE to the filter to help improve its filtering of small stuff. But not until the end, 'k?
We have scooped the bottom with a leaf rake and gotten as much debris from the bottom as we could find. Good! The more stuff in there, the longer it takes to clear.
The pool chemistry has been steadily tested and maintained at normal/ideal levels since 7/22 (that includes Chlorine, PH, Alkalinity)Whose "ideal" levels? Here is our recommend levels: Pool School - Recommended Levels But remember those are for when the pool is in ideal shape.... if you have algae and other problems those have to be fixed first before reverting to the "recommended levels".
I have been using the bbb method (minus the bleach at first- the exception of also using Trichlor tablets and granules (XtraBlue 3"Long-lasting chlorinating tablets and XtraBlue All-in-one chlorinating granules, to be exact). Aaack! No more "Blue" products!! They contain copper, which lead to staining and green hair.
We were doing small shocks 1-2 pds every other day or so, then I realized I probably wasn't reaching the breaking point so..We agree.. you have to do a prolonged SLAM process (Shock Level and Maintain) until the water is clear and passes 3 criteria: Water is CLEAR, CCs are 0.5ppm or less and OCLT shows 1ppm or less loss.
:confused:WHICH TEST KIT DO YA'LL RECOMMEND??) TF-100 is a better choice as it has more reagents for the tests you'll be doing the most. Get the Speed Stir device too... simplify your life :) Both available at TFTestkits.net and they ship from NC so you should get it quickly.
The pool color has drastically improved since superchlorination too. Once you get the test kit you'll be able to do a proper SLAM.
3):confused:HOW LONG DO I NEED TO MAINTAIN SLAM LEVELS? (the entire time until the water is clear or do I just need to maintain "ideal" chlorine levels now???) Without the proper test kit which contains the FAS-DPD chlorine tester (measures up to 50ppm) you haven't really been sure of your levels so you might not have ever reached your SLAM level? Also your level depends on your CYA level. Do you know that?? Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
We have been filtering 24 hrs/d since 7/22...Yup, gotta do that during a SLAM. And backwashing when the filter pressure increases by 20-25%.
7/25 I also started adding Clarifier (clorox pool & spa Super water Clarifier) Aaack! (again, sorry) We rarely to never suggest this product. It can sometimes cause more problems than you had before by gumming up your filter. ALL you need at this point is bleach, bleach and more bleach.

I have been using my 5 way test kit every day, but on 7/27 I did buy a sample strip kit test to get an idea of the cya levels (yes I know they can be not as accurate). All other results matched what I have been getting with my normal testing. You NEED the FAS-DPD test, in the TF-100. 'nuff said. The strip results were
Total Hardness: 250
Total Chlorine: 10 That's the highest that tester goes....and it isn't providing you with a Combined Chloramines number
Free Chlorine: 10
PH: 6.8 (I also added borax and got this back ideal) Do you mean you raised it to 7.2 we suggest for a SLAM?
Total Alkalinity: 120
Stabilizer: 50
Now on to my next question/concern. I know I need to invest in a better kit, but as of right now I would like to know if I am understanding chlorine results right on my current kit. I can read FC (up to 5ppm, then I have to guess from there) but I get confused with what it calls the Combined Chlorine reading.Combined Chloramines is a fancy way of saying "contaminating cooties". I guess I am not getting a TC reading. It says the "chlorine residual can exist as free (active) chlorine and/or combined (less effective) chlorine". To test, it says Within 2-3 seconds you can read the FC levels,and Wait 1-2 minutes to determine the CC "chlorine residual" as it calls it. 5):confused:IS THERE A WAY TO GET TOTAL CHLORINE READINGS FROM THIS?) Also, almost EVERYTIME I test the FC and CC readings are almost identical...:confused:IS THAT WHAT I WANT TO SEE OR IS THAT A PROBLEM???? THIS is why you NEED that TF-100 with the FAS-DPD test. It performs both individually and ACCURATELY.

My husband threw in some granules that night. (like I said, we don't know if the chlorine concentration should be higher while in the clearing process) No more granular or puck products, please. They add either more CYA which you don't want now as it raises your SLAM level higher or calcium which vinyl pools don't need ever unless they have a heater.
I do attempt to brush the pool every other day or so (its a little hard to tell how good when I can't see the bottom:-|). Brushing is good! It disrupts any biofilm that algae makes to protect itself from the chlorine. It also gets "schtuff" into circulation so that the filter can do its job on it.

:confused:Am I doing everything right/ok?? It seems to be slowly getting better, so is it just a waiting game or is there something I can do to speed up the cloudy water clearing process??? (Wish there was a magical process to instantly clear the water;)) You're sort of spinning your wheels at this point. Go to TFTestkits.net and order that test kit (you can thank me later, lol) and go stock up on liquid chlorine (aka 8.25% or higher bleach or "liquid chlorine" from pool section) Check prices and date codes to get cheapest and freshest stock.

OMG I just previewed this and saw how much I wrote!!:eek: I know this is probably a lot of un-needed, jumbled information:lol:, but if anyone would dare jump into it and give me some advice I would Appreciate it SO MUCH.

Thanks Jessica
Click to expand...

Jessica, we can definitely help you but you have to do the SLAM properly- have you read this yet? SLAM Process

We also love pictures if you can add a few? Its fun to watch the water clear up day by day.

Yippee :flower:
 
I promise u when u get the test kit and follow the advise of these wonderful people here u won't be disappointed, I am a new to me first time pool owner this is my second season and I am still learning stuff everyt time I come on here and I admit that I don't know everything but thanks to the guys and gals here when I have a problem I come here for the advise as its much better and less expensive than the uneducated opinions of the pool stores who only care about spending far too much of your money on stuff you don't need and will prolong the the sparkling oasis we all desire, I wish u luck but hang in there U CAN DO THIS....lol

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
Thanks it's look'n a little clearer everyday, slooooowly.
Looks like a lot of good stuff on this site. Thanks for the pep talk ignoranceisbliss, fingers crossed it won't be much longer:D

Thanks pooldv and yippeeskippy, I ordered the tf-100 now awaiting its arrival so I can hit the slam hard an be on spot with the chlorine levels
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Jessica, we can definitely help you but you have to do the SLAM properly- have you read this yet? SLAM Process

We also love pictures if you can add a few? Its fun to watch the water clear up day by day.

Yippee :flower:
Click to expand...

Thanks! I have read about the SLAM
I ordered the TF-100 kit, here's answers to your other q's:

I know it is late in the season but I am determined to get it crystal clear for my young'ns to get to swim in at least a few times this year. Also maybe I can have better control of it for next year this way. Absolutely it should simplify things for next year. Will you be "closing" your pool over the winter or keeping it "open"? I plan on "closing". It's outside, I figure that's what most people do?

The pool chemistry has been steadily tested and maintained at normal/ideal levels since 7/22 (that includes Chlorine, PH, Alkalinity)Whose "ideal" levels? "Ideal" level marks were indicated on my current test kit vials but now I know those are for "normal" pool conditions.

I have been using the bbb method (minus the bleach at first- the exception of also using Trichlor tablets and granules (XtraBlue 3"Long-lasting chlorinating tablets and XtraBlue All-in-one chlorinating granules, to be exact). Aaack! No more "Blue" products!! They contain copper, which lead to staining and green hair Just curiosity and for future knowledge, How do you know a product for sure contains copper??

We have been filtering 24 hrs/d since 7/22...Yup, gotta do that during a SLAM. And backwashing when the filter pressure increases by 20-25%. Forgive me, but I been pondering what you mean by 20-25% increase. I've always read about 8-10psi over normal running pressure and that is what I do, is that what you mean?

Clarifier (clorox pool & spa Super water Clarifier) Aaack! (again, sorry) We rarely to never suggest this product. It can sometimes cause more problems than you had before by gumming up your filter. ALL you need at this point is bleach, bleach and more bleach. Got it!

PH: 6.8 (I also added borax and got this back ideal) Do you mean you raised it to 7.2 we suggest for a SLAM? Correct

Will post pics soon :D
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
EssieMae said:
Thanks! I have read about the SLAM
I ordered the TF-100 kit, here's answers to your other q's:

I plan on "closing". It's outside, I figure that's what most people do? In your neck of the woods, its a toss up. Some do, some don't.

"Ideal" level marks were indicated on my current test kit vials but now I know those are for "normal" pool conditions. Sometimes the TFP ideal levels aren't the same as pool stores for example. So we like hard core numbers to work with or base our care on.

Just curiosity and for future knowledge, How do you know a product for sure contains copper?? Copper containing products are often listed as "Blue" per an old chemistry name for copper- "Blue Vitriol". And by reading the MSDS.

Forgive me, but I been pondering what you mean by 20-25% increase. I've always read about 8-10psi over normal running pressure and that is what I do, is that what you mean?
Since everyone's baseline number is different, monitoring it by 20-25% is a better way to describe the point in which it needs backwashing.


Will post pics soon :grin:
Click to expand...

The pic is cute.. love the ducks :)
 
ok my tf100 kit came the other day, been doing the tests and results have seemed to be good :D
I know my cya is too high and I am going to do some vacuuming to waste tomorrow and refill some to hopefully correct that problem.
Here are the results I have gotten:

8/4
FC- 24.5
CC- 0
TC- 24.5
PH- 6.8 (low I know)
CH- 75
TA- 70 (also getting a little low)
CYA- 100 (eek:eek:)

8/5
FC- 22
CC- 0
TC- 22
PH- 6.9 (need to buy more :p)
CH- 75
TA- 80
CYA-100

Aside from needing to increase my PH, and the CYA being sky high.....
On the evening of 8/5 I did an OCLT= 25
Morning of 8/6 OCLT= 24 :D

So I feel like I am basically good on all results and have 0 CC, only 1.0ppm loss of FC from OCLT, other than the water not being completely clear yet I guess I am not in need of another severe SLAM??
I am figuring the still slightly cloudy water is from high CYA levels????

I bought some DE to add to my sand filter, am I safe to add to it now per the pool school guidelines?

Thanks in advance!
Jessica
 
I doubt the cloudiness is from the CYA. I am more worried about that low pH. We normlly don't recommend testing pH during a slam as it tends to read HIGH, not low.

Yes, you can add DE.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you ever do a dilution test on the CYA?
 
MarianParoo said:
I doubt the cloudiness is from the CYA. I am more worried about that low pH. We normlly don't recommend testing pH during a slam as it tends to read HIGH, not low. If your worried that it's real low, what target level do you suggest I try to get the PH up to??

Yes, you can add DE. Yay:D

- - - Updated - - -

Did you ever do a dilution test on the CYA? Yes, I double checked on the second day testing by doing that, it hit right near 50 so I doubled it to confirm the 100ish level
Click to expand...

So do you think I still need to maintain high Chlorine levels or should I let them drift down and if so, to what levels??

Also thanks for the quick response!
 
The problem with 6.8 on the PH test is that it is the bottom of the test range and it could be much lower. PH below 7.2 is corrosive and can damage pool equipment. I would be inclined to let FC drop to 10 ppm and recheck ph. When is the last time it tested at7.2 or higher?

Same problem with the cya test 100 is the top of the test range and it could be much higher. We've seen readings of 100 when it is really 200, 300, or even 400. The diluted test is here, Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions
 
pooldv said:
The problem with 6.8 on the PH test is that it is the bottom of the test range and it could be much lower. PH below 7.2 is corrosive and can damage pool equipment. I would be inclined to let FC drop to 10 ppm and recheck ph. So don't up the PH at all until the FC drops to 10??? When is the last time it tested at7.2 or higher? 8/3 (wed.) So could ya'll also be suggesting low ph could be the blame for the still cloudy water then??

Same problem with the cya test 100 is the top of the test range and it could be much higher. We've seen readings of 100 when it is really 200, 300, or even 400. The diluted test is here, Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions
Click to expand...

I attempt the diluted test on 8/5 but I will try again :)

Thanks!
 
MarianParoo said:
I would shoot for 7.2 on the pH.

If it were my pool, I would do another OCLT for peace of mind. Then you should know if the cloudiness is due to algae or filtering. Okay :)

Have you deep cleaned your filter? We cleaned out the tank and replaced with all new pool filter sand at the beginning of our venture, say end of June, first of July. If you pass the OCLT, you may want to try it.
Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
Click to expand...

Thanks again

- - - Updated - - -

max2k said:
With CYA that high you will need to drain/refill at least 50% of your water.
Is this an option? It's not an option I would really like to consider, lol :(
What water source will be used for refill- city/well/smth else?
Click to expand...

​We have well water..
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply