Equipment pad feedback

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D

Dennysoccer

0
Jun 29, 2016
23
FRISCO/Texas
I. The process of getting a pool built I am planning on updating the whole build once it is complete. Just wanted to post a few pics of my equipment pad now It has been installed. I just want feedback if there is anything glaringly obvious incorrect or missing as now is the time to spot it.
We are having a pool, spa and 3 sheer descents on a wall.

Any constructive feedback or reassurance would be great!

Also- ignore the black wire- that is the Att temporary line.

IMG_7476.jpgIMG_7473.jpgIMG_7477.jpgIMG_7474.jpg
Thanks


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Although everything is new and shiny the layout wasn't thought out very well. Having 2 90's going into pump is not recommended. Having pipe going over keypad on pump isn't very wise either. Also on last pipe on return side looks like a check valve is buried. How much distance between back of motors and house, should be a minimum of six to eight inches.Obviously the person installing this probably won't be the person that has to reap something later
 
Looks like a typical awful pool builder install where everything is put in so compact that it must all be cut out and replaced to change any one piece of equipment when it fails. There is just something about pool builders and many/most pool newbies that think the more compact the pad is the better. Just take the pump as an example here, given the spacing to the wall and placement of pipes you would be hard pressed to change out the pump motor even without cutting it all out (once you unbolt the pump motor to change it out you must slide it back the length of the impeller and it does not look like there is that much space before you would hit the wall), and forget about changing out the whole pump, or anything else for that matter. Maybe not the worst pad layout I have seen, but it probably deserves an honarable mention.

p.s. I missed the half buried check valve, that is going to be fun when it comes time to replace the flapper, or if it gets clogged.
 
Looks tight but I don't think there is much you can do about it.

I think the only big concern I would have is the last backflow that is below grade. Some day you may need to service it and if the screws have been in contact with soil for years they may corrode and be hard to remove. I would dig out the dirt around it and put a piece of redwood or some sort of barrier to keep the soil away from it. If you are pouring concrete around the pad be sure to leave enough room 16 inches or so to be able to dig down to put in a splice in should it ever be needed.
 
I appreciate the feedback here!
In fairness to the plumbers and I should have mentioned- we have a narrow lot and have to work with a pretty tight easement.
That being said.... Two questions.
1. The functionality- does it look right- does it have the right parts and will it work right?
2. Is there anything you would tell them to correct now- I understand the pump is close and that will impact repairs but is is bad to the point where it will impact performance- should it be moved or corrected?


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Too late now, but you asked...

You might want to ask your Pool Builder why he is so cheap that he can't afford to install unions on pumps I'm sure he is selling you for $1,500 or more... Also, a pressure side cleaner that needs an additional pump is pretty old school. A robot would have been a more up-to- date option. And now that I'm on a roll... :cool: Good luck getting the drain plug out of your filter. It is just like mine and that is how I know it is a PIA. But then again you might be much more flexible than I am..

One thing to make sure of now is where the Backwash output goes.. In my city and most surrounding cities it must go to the sanitary drain (Sewer). If it does not, I'd check with your city and see what is allowed. I had to put in a cartridge filter because it would have been too expensive to connect a DE filter to my sewer system.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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Hey you are right- this is why I'm asking- would rather know now.
What are unions on pumps?
How do you know the pressure side cleaner has an additional pump. The way I understood it is the extra pump is for the water feature/sheer descents.
Thanks for the input.


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Dennysoccer said:
Kadavis- what are two 90's and why is that bad going into a pump?


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Click to expand...

not Kadavis but- your main VS pump has inlet with 2 closely located 90 degrees elbows. Pentair recommends 5" (from memory) of straight pipe before inlet to reduce turbulence before the impeller. When your main pump goes at full speed the water would have to change direction by 90 degrees twice in really short distance. My own approach- the smoother the angles the better.

That's a lot of valves to play with, could probably save some space if some of them are removed / replaced with multi- port ones as I bet many of their combinations don't make sense.
 
Dennysoccer said:
Hey you are right- this is why I'm asking- would rather know now.
What are unions on pumps?
How do you know the pressure side cleaner has an additional pump. The way I understood it is the extra pump is for the water feature/sheer descents.
Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The pump with the two little hoses I "assume" is for a pressure cleaner. The pump on the end next to the filter is for your water features. The pump in the middle is a Variable Speed pump (A great pump by the way) is the main pump for your pool and spa. You need to make sure you, or your pool builder, installs a surge protector on the power line that feeds your pool equipment. If that pump has any faults, is that it does not like nearby lightning strikes.

Unions should be installed at both the input and output to all pumps. This allows the pumps to be removed and reinstalled without having to cut the PVC pipe. They cost about $25 bucks a set, but it is too late now and not having them will not cause any operational issues, just repair issues later on.

Is your pool going to have automation?

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
The pump with the two little hoses I "assume" is for a pressure cleaner. The pump on the end next to the filter is for your water features. The pump in the middle is a Variable Speed pump (A great pump by the way) is the main pump for your pool and spa. You need to make sure you, or your pool builder, installs a surge protector on the power line that feeds your pool equipment. If that pump has any faults, is that it does not like nearby lightning strikes.

Unions should be installed at both the input and output to all pumps. This allows the pumps to be removed and reinstalled without having to cut the PVC pipe. They cost about $25 bucks a set, but it is too late now and not having them will not cause any operational issues, just repair issues later on.

Is your pool going to have automation?

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Yes it will have automation- anything to look out for there?

Yes - surge protector is a for sure- electrician is coming tmrw. Our city code is pretty strict on that stuff but I will triple check on that.


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I assume your automation will be an EacyTouch or Intellitouch. Either way you really.. really.. need them to install the ScreenLogic2 Option. It will make your life so much easier when it comes to reprogram or adding something later.

Jim R.
 
Dennysoccer said:
Thanks Isaac,
I am so new to this so appreciate the response. What is a flapper?


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That Jandy? style check valve that is mostly buried has a rubber flapper in it sort of like the ones in the bottom of a toilet, this prevents the water from back flowing past it, and much like a toilet flapper the rubber tends to break down over time, also depending on how it is plumbed it may be possible for some type of debris perhaps from the chlorinator to get into it and catch to let water leak back through it. On the topic of Chlorination have you given any thought as to how you plan to maintain your chlorine level, I hope you are not planning on using that puck feeder full time, as that will tend to drive your CYA levels sky high.
 
Here is the pad I just put in. You can see the unions used between the pieces of equipment. I also have them where the lines come out of the ground pool side. Cheap investment to make your life easier




56a58806d74c7c32953dc7bf56ec7fa3.jpg


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So I brought up the 2 90's to my pool builder and he seemed to think it was ok, however I made a big deal about it and he said he can change it if needed but will delay things.
How big of a deal is this?
Is there any easy fix/workaround to this issue that anyone could see?
Would two 45's work?


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