Simple deck for 30' round above ground pool

[daringdirk1]

I'd like to build a simple deck for our 30' round above ground pool. Also, I'd like the deck to be above the pool rail to ensure that our kids and their friends (who do not always follow instructions) can't stand or sit on the pool edge. The pool has 19 sections. I'm thinking of a rectangular deck that intersects the pool at 3 sections. Does anyone have any photos or plans for a similar deck that they are willing to share?

Thanks!

 

[Griswald]

My round pool had wedge shaped decking. It worked well, I think I had 4 wedges, one at each section.

 

[northrn]

Pinterest has boat loads of ideas. Just finishing up a 24 x 35 around my pool and got most of the ideas from there.

 

[Pauls234]

Be careful building above the pool rail. Doing so can make it difficult (or impossible) to pull the railing when you need to replace the liner. I had to do some major deck cutting and repair due to previous owner building it in this way when I replaced my liner last year.

 

[daringdirk1]

Thanks for tip. We have a j-channel liner, so there is no need to pull the railing when replacing the liner. Just put in new liner last month and top rail stays in place.

 

[Dstorm258]

We are having a deck built now for our 24' round pool. I don't know where you are located but one thing you may also have to think about is getting a cover on the pool in the off season. I made sure we took that into account before the deck started going up.
I have friends who's deck goes over the top rail of their pool and they cannot get a cover between the deck and pool. They use a tarp with weights in the winter and it gets blown around from the wind often!

 

[danpik]

Here are some pictures of the deck on mine.





When I built this I took into consideration the need to be able to get a winter cover on and off, so there is a 1/2 - 3/4" gap to allow for that. Also, to be able to do a liner change, which I had to do a couple years ago, I designed the deck sections to be ably to be moved back from the pool edge by unbolting them from the beams. The deck is built as two separate wedges that have two bolts holding them together and can be slid back separately by unbolting them from each other and the support beams. Once the liner change was done, everything is slid back into position and bolted back together.

The design for this came about after I saw the over rail deck on my brothers pool which stood about 10-12" above the pool rails (not too appealing to me) and my friends pool where he built the deck even with the rail tops. The rail tops on his pool all look like they were smashed to pieces with a sledge hammer after 2 years.

 

[Griswald]

Here are some pictures of the deck on mine.





When I built this I took into consideration the need to be able to get a winter cover on and off, so there is a 1/2 - 3/4" gap to allow for that. Also, to be able to do a liner change, which I had to do a couple years ago, I designed the deck sections to be ably to be moved back from the pool edge by unbolting them from the beams. The deck is built as two separate wedges that have two bolts holding them together and can be slid back separately by unbolting them from each other and the support beams. Once the liner change was done, everything is slid back into position and bolted back together.

The design for this came about after I saw the over rail deck on my brothers pool which stood about 10-12" above the pool rails (not too appealing to me) and my friends pool where he built the deck even with the rail tops. The rail tops on his pool all look like they were smashed to pieces with a sledge hammer after 2 years.

Mine looked almost exactly like yours, but my benches were just square benches, no back except for the rail. Also kept about 3/4" away from the pool and I buried the posts 4' with a big concrete ball. Didn't want them to settle down onto the pool.

 

[Buckiee]

Danpik, I can't access your pictures but wild love to see them, this is exactly what I was hoping to do with our deck!

Here are some pictures of the deck on mine.





When I built this I took into consideration the need to be able to get a winter cover on and off, so there is a 1/2 - 3/4" gap to allow for that. Also, to be able to do a liner change, which I had to do a couple years ago, I designed the deck sections to be ably to be moved back from the pool edge by unbolting them from the beams. The deck is built as two separate wedges that have two bolts holding them together and can be slid back separately by unbolting them from each other and the support beams. Once the liner change was done, everything is slid back into position and bolted back together.

The design for this came about after I saw the over rail deck on my brothers pool which stood about 10-12" above the pool rails (not too appealing to me) and my friends pool where he built the deck even with the rail tops. The rail tops on his pool all look like they were smashed to pieces with a sledge hammer after 2 years.

 

[danpik]

Until I can find a reliable photo hosting site I can't post them. Photobucket was a marginal site at best and now they want to charge a fortune to store images up there. Not playing that game. PM me with your email and maybe I can get them to you to see.
Dan