Previous Baqua-apostle now converting.... Here I GO!

readings

FC-0
CC-1
T/C-1
T/A-80
CYA-0
CH-0
pH-7.2

A few questions:
Should I be concerned with CH at all w/ my vinyl pool?
Are the reagents interchangeable with the test kits I already have?
Are the reagents stable over time, if not how long do they last?

Shocking tonight, keeping fingers crossed.

Oh yea, the Bunny post was my daughter!
 
Nope, don't worry about the CH.

I'm not sure what other test kits you already have.

Stored properly, your kit should last a couple years. Keep it in a cool dark dry place, I keep mine in a closet in the shipping box.
 
You should double check that you did the CH test correctly. It is fairly rare for it to be zero. Low CH isn't that big of a deal. We recommend 50 because we don't have much experience at levels below that.

The reagents in the TF100 are compatible/interchangeable with others with the same numbers in Taylor test kits.

The reagents can last several years if you store them in a cool dark place. They can spoil rather quickly if you leave them in very hot direct sunlight or they freeze.
 
Shock last night and recorded following after 1hr:

FC-16.5
CC-5.0
TC-21.5
CH-110
CYA-0
pH-8.2
TA-90

Had spectacular thunderstorm w/ heavy lightning and downpour which added about an inch plus to the pool.
Results at 7a.m. :
FC-11.5
CC-.5
TC-12
CYA-did not test
CH-did not test
pH-7.2
TA-80

Questions: When doing the TA test, the color goes to more of a purple-red. Then one more drop to true red. which is the accurate result?
Has anyone used the hot water method to dissolve the Cy. acid? The pool store guy suggested almost boiling h2o in a bucket
then stir with an electric drill and paint stirrer.

thank you! :p
 
The TA test - the last drop, final color change.

The CYA - why the rush? Just put it in a sock and let it dissolve, leave the pump running for 48 hours
while it does. After the first 24, assume the CYA is in there and keep your FC up accordingly, retest in 5 or 6 days to confirm the results. No need to go to that much trouble.
 
Yes, you can edit your posts. In the top right hand corner of the post there should be a small edit button.

On the TA test, keep adding drops as long as the color continues changing. If you add a drop that doesn't change the color any further, you are done and you do not count the drop that didn't produce any further color change.

Yes, hot water will speed up dissolving CYA, but it is really just a waste of time. It still won't fully show up on the test right away. Just put the CYA in a sock and put the sock in the skimmer and relax and let it dissolve. There is no reason to make extra work for yourself.
 

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Of course it rained hard all day and my pool is overflowing. Did not bother with any chlorine today and the reading still showed a residual of 2ppm. Am going to wait till I can empty some h2o then hit it again. H2o is still very clear. am I taking a chance that algae will start before I finish the conversion? Forecast is for more showers tomorrow.
 
OK. So, the torrential rains stopped, and I,m back on track with shocking. I'm getting close. Losing 2ppm FC w/ 1ppm CC. overnight.
Question: After I change my sand and add CYA, other than FC, should I wait till that disolves and tests properly before I worry about T/A, pH etc.? Also, I'm a little confused about the proper T/A and CYA levels. My pool gets about 5hrs direct sun. the h2o temp is running 75. Is CYA of 30 or 40 right for me? With lower CYA of 30 or 40, does the FC dissipate faster than with higher? I'm sure I'll use less CL., but will algae grow easier?

Thanks so much! You guys are the best! :p
 
You can do the fine tuning of all your levels after you are done being at shock level. At that point, when the conversion is complete, I would aim for a CYA level of 50. Over the course of the season that will come down to somewhere around 30. If you are going to use bleach then TA is best between 70 and 90, but somewhat higher levels are alright and not usually worth the trouble of lowering quickly.
 
Hooray! FC held w/.5 CC 2X.

Question: May I start CYA dissolve Before I change sand. I'm out of town 2days and don't have time to do sand. My son will add CL over weekend. I'd like to start getting stabilized. Also as far as CYA and/FC goes, Does FC in a pool with 40ppm CYA and 4ppm FC dissipate faster (or be more likely to hit 0ppm) than a pool with 70ppm cya 7ppm FC? Is there an advantage to a higher CYA if one is willing to maintain the higher FCppm?


Thank You Thank You Thank You

Here's to TFP! :punkrock: :
 

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